USS Constitution by Modeler12 - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[Modeler12]

Very nice work. Great tips on the possible pitfalls. I always liked the look of this vessel. I like the way the rigging makes this one come alive. Will enjoy watching it when you get there and see how it is done by this company.

Hi Gary, 

Please again, there are no pitfalls, just stumbling blocks. I just found some ways to jump a bit further and higher 

 

The kit of this model by Model Shipways does include eight large drawings that are mostly to the model scale. The rigging is drawn half of that, but very detailed (some special details are full scale and in perspective).

I have selected only six out of a total of 38 sails that the plans call for (and that does not include the spritsail and others, unknown?). Thus far the running rigging of the six sails alone keeps me busy and pandering.
I hate to think what the ship's mates had to go through to not only know when and what, but where.

[Modeler12]

I can understand that. Fully rigged would be a jumble of ropes that they had to know which was which. where it was and what each did.

Does the kit come with sails or you have to make them from silk span that is provided?

Gary I made my own sails out of a very light weight muslin cloth. For details go to http://www.brentjes.com/conny%20rigging.html

 

Thus far I have rigged the spanker sail and am working on attaching  the various lines to the square sails and spars. There are a couple pictures earlier in my build log.

[Blue Ensign]

I like the approach you are taking with your build, and those repacement tackle blocks on the carronades look so much better. Oversize blocks are one fitting that immediately catch my eye, and I can't live with them either.

 

I've not come across a kit yet that supplies correctly scaled blocks.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Modeler12]

I like the approach you are taking with your build, and those repacement tackle blocks on the carronades look so much better. Oversize blocks are one fitting that immediately catch my eye, and I can't live with them either.

 

I've not come across a kit yet that supplies correctly scaled blocks.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

Thank you B.E. What I find interesting about the blocks in the kit I am working on is that the blocks look terrible, but the deadeyes and bullseyes are pretty decent. It would seem that whoever made one should be able to do the same quality job on the others. Not only is the shape of those blocks way off but the holes don't line up and are of different sizes. If I were involved with the QC of stuff coming in from China (or where ever) I would reject the blocks for sure.

[Modeler12]

At this point I have rigged the mizzen topsail with the various lines and laced it to the spar. The lacing goes through the jackstays and not around the spar.

 

I intend to show the model on a starboard tack with the starboard outwards when it is displayed along a wall. I say this because I have a 'bad side' on this model. The port side has been my 'experimental side' and has a few more flaws than the starboard side. Hence the front of the sail facing port is not pretty with bad seams and ratty finishes. I may touch that up a bit before I mount this on the mast. It is the second picture below.

 

 

I could have threaded the two clewlines down through the blocks in the bottom corners and I will do that also before installing this.

Next come the main and foresails.

[Geoff Matson]

Jay

 

Your sails are looking great. I give you a lot of credit for even atempting to put them on. But what a great learning process. I will be following this build log for sure. Keep up the great work.

[Modeler12]

After posting the last message above, I went ahead and threaded the lines through the blocks. That then reminded me of this trick I had learned from another ship modeler.

 

I used to thread blocks using one of those needle threaders that you can buy in fabric shops. Then I learned that if you take a drop of CA adhesive, smear it along the end of the line, it will stiffen the end. Then if you cut the very tip off with a razor blade or exacto knife you get a nice point. Threading blocks is now much easier.

[JeffT]

Nice tip Jay. I'll try that out when I start threading threading my blocks.

[Modeler12]

Jay

 

Your sails are looking great. I give you a lot of credit for even atempting to put them on. But what a great learning process. I will be following this build log for sure. Keep up the great work.

Thanks Geoff. It is indeed a learning process. When I thought about doing this I didn't know a leech from a bunt. Now I am in the middle of all those terms and smiling. I just hope that pulling all those lines and belaying them is not going to drive me more nuts.

[Modeler12]

I finished (so I thought) with the main and fore topsails. I threaded the blocks as much as I could and then discovered another block to be added to the spars. It is the halliard that lifts the spars and sails into position. Below I show the mizzen spar and topsail again (upside down) with the various blocks now in place. Keep in mind that the bunt, leech lines  and clew lines are on port and starboard.

 

My god, I hope I didn't leave anymore out at this point. But I know the main and foremasts will have some more surprises!

 

Meanwhile I have also added some blocks and bullseyes to the top of the masts. The bullseyes will lead the royal stays, coming from the mast or bowsprit and then go down to the tops (one is extra). The two blocks along the side are for the lifts (which I will not install, so the poor devils will just flutter in the breeze). There is also a halliard block that iis hidden partly behind the masts.

Then below you have a similar arrangement for the top-gallant spars.

 

When I look at this, I think I may have a problem with the royal halliards. They should be in front of the mast???? And, yet the line goes down behind the mast. ???? I think I may move them, because the royal would be coming up twisted if the halliard comes around the mast at that point.
Anyway, the halliards for the top-gallants are in front. So, I solve my own problem (thank you).

Edited March 9, 2013 by Modeler12

[Modeler12]

Back to the royal halliards.

After I took the 2mm blocks down, I decided to replace them with a sheave going through the mast.
That is the way it is shown in Marquardt's book 'Anatomy of  the ship', pg 93 and in the book by Petersson 'Rigging period ship models', pg 30.

 

It is a lot cleaner looking, even though the kit plans don't show it that way.

I also continued adding more lines such as the halliards for the flags on top of the masts and the halliards for the royal and top-gallant spars.

[Geoff Matson]

Jay Thanks for the heads up on the sheave hole. I am working on the masts right now.  I will have to check it out. Do you think it is necessary even if you don't rig the sails?

Edited March 12, 2013 by Geoff Matson

[Modeler12]

Jay Thanks for the heads up on the sheave hole. I am working on the masts right now.  I will have to check it out. Do you think it is necessary even if you don't rig the sails?

I would say yes, Geoff. These lines are for the halliards, the lines that raise the spars up and down (whether or not the sails are there). The top part of the lines are referred to as tyes and they go down to where they meet and are attached to the halliards which in turn go to the channels. If you were to leave them off, I think it would look odd not to see those lines coming down to the channels. Take a look at drawing number eight, lower right corner and you'll see what I mean.

Meanwhile I have also removed the blocks for the top-gallant tyes (halliards as the drawing calls them) and put in 'sheaves' for the same reason. Again other drawings I mentioned above show it that way.

 

I might add that there is only one tye and halliard for the royal and top-gallant spars. One goes to the port channel and the other to starboard (see drawing 8). But there are two for the larger top-sail spars. They do have one block on each side of the mast instead of sheaves. The sketch above shows a closeup of the block and tye for the top-sail.

Edited March 12, 2013 by Modeler12

[Geoff Matson]

Thanks Jay

 

Nows the time to put them in.

[Modeler12]

At this point things are getting a bit more 'complicated'. Besides the lines shown on the sail and top masts, I have also pre-rigged the haliards and stored them in an envelope (they are some of the last lines to go onto the ship). There are also four davits and their lines in a bag. A couple of stays have been rigged on the lower main and I made the two fore stays with their 'snakes'. There are shrouds in another bag and I know there are several more stays to go between the masts. But . . .

 

I think it is about time I got going on making the bowsprit and all its details.

[Modeler12]

OK, I just shot my good intentions of starting on the bowsprit. There are several more details to be done on the masts and spars before they are to be mounted on the ship. 
 

The caps have several eyebolts for the rigging and a guide up front for the stays. So I added those (including the eyebolts on the sides for lifts, which I may not include).Then there are the slings and jeers on the jacks. Below I show only one jeer but there will be another one to the left. Both the sling and jeers will have another line going through the loop and then around the mast, but that will be done during the actual installation. Notice I am still using the triple blocks that came with the kit, instead of the better shaped ones from our friend in Utah. When it comes to doing the shrouds etc. I will use the better blocks because they are more visible. 

  

 

Not yet added are the two trusses (one on each side of the mast). These were used to hold the spar against the mast when the course sail was raised. To keep things a bit less complicated I will not add the trusses at this point.

[Geoff Matson]

Jay

 

I now am getting ready to shape the bowsprit and am having trouble visualizing how it will look. I am not too concerned about the stern end of the bowsprit, because most of it will be hidden. The bow is another matter.  It tapers, then rounds and then a square on the end that is angled for the dolphin striker. Perhaps you have a picture of yours?

[jcoby]

Jay

 

I now am getting ready to shape the bowsprit and am having trouble visualizing how it will look. I am not too concerned about the stern end of the bowsprit, because most of it will be hidden. The bow is another matter.  It tapers, then rounds and then a square on the end that is angled for the dolphin striker. Perhaps you have a picture of yours?

 

Maybe this will help:

 

 

 

New bowsprit for USS Constitution: Made from hearts of 4 Douglas firs from Oregon forests. Diameter: 32 length: 64' weight: 5 1/2 tons.

 

From here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/boston_public_library/5887999202/

 

Another good shot here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/boston_public_library/5888787038/sizes/o/in/photostream/

Edited March 14, 2013 by jcoby

[Geoff Matson]

Jay

 

Thanks for the great picture. This helps alot. Now I see the bowsprit is still round, only with a slight round taper to the end. I think I will make the bowsprit with all the tapers and then dry fit in place to get the right angle for the tenon for the dolphin striker.

 

P.S.  I think that is a picture of me as kid next to the girl   Thanks again

[jcoby]

From what I see the bowsprit squares off at the tip. It looks like if you taper it to the final diameter in the round and then sand or plane off the four "cheeks" you would get the same effect.

 

The second link I posted shows it a bit more clearly (http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/). There are a ton of photos of the restoration in that flickr gallery worth looking at.

 

The conny is a pretty popular model here. Hopefully someone who has built one can answer more authoritatively. 

[Modeler12]

Geoff, credit for showing the picture belongs with Jcoby. I have not yet made the bowsprit, but all of the comments and pictures will help me also. Thanks Jcoby.
 

Besides the historical pictures, there are a good series shown on the Conny museum web site. http://etc.usf.edu/clippix/pictures/uss-constitution-museum/

I show one example below.

[JeffT]

The shape of the bowsprit is interesting. The drawing on sheet 6 of the plans should help get it pretty close.

[Modeler12]

The shape of the bowsprit is interesting. The drawing on sheet 6 of the plans should help get it pretty close.

This is the way I see the shape:

 

The top side for the full length is straight and it is the bottom side that is 'tapered' or contoured. If you hold a straight edge along the drawing you can see that. That also makes it easier to add the long series of steps.

Toward the tip, the main bowsprit goes from round to square. That is where the 'bees' are attached. I don't fully understand the functions of these bees, other than to give more lateral support to the bow-cap.

 

The bow-cap is a laser cut piece and because it is vertical (while the bowsprit is slanted upwards), the holes have to be filed at an angle. Below is another picture that shows the bees and a stay running right through it.

 

This is going to be fun. 

[davyboy]

Hi Jay,

 

That is a very fine model you are building. One thing I have noticed is that your jeers have treble upper and lower blocks. In this case the standing part of the jeer rope should start from the mast head and not the yard as you have done. When the standing part starts from the yard only double blocks are required on the yard.  

 

Regards,

 

Dave

[Geoff Matson]

Jay

 

Thanks for you help and pictures and the thanks to the rest of the guys for their input. This is the great part msw. You ask a question and the help arrives

 

Here is how I see it:

 

The top of the bowsprit it straight the entire length and makes it easy to attach the stairs as you mentioned.

 

Then as you get closer to the front of the bowsprit there is a square section for the bees.

 

Then on the very bow end you have the tendon which is not square, but retangle in shape for the cap. The cap tennon opening needs to be cut on an angle to accept the bowsprit. Is that how you guys see it?

 

Here are two pictures from the plans.

 

 

Edited March 14, 2013 by Geoff Matson

[Modeler12]

One little detail about the jeers. I had threaded the triple blocks and the strops before attaching them to the jack. What I should have done is to thread them in pairs and make them symmetrical. That is, I should have had the rope come out on the left on one and on the right for the other. You can see below that both are threaded the same way. 

 

I am not going to redo this one because it is glued in place already. But I will redo the other two sets of jeers. Like I said it is a minor thing and will not be noticed, but I will remember this little detail.

[Modeler12]

Hi Jay,

 

That is a very fine model you are building. One thing I have noticed is that your jeers have treble upper and lower blocks. In this case the standing part of the jeer rope should start from the mast head and not the yard as you have done. When the standing part starts from the yard only double blocks are required on the yard.  

 

Regards,

 

Dave

Dave, you are correct. The drawings that we are following (one of which is shown by Geoff above) clearly showed the two triple blocks and I just went ahead and used them that way. But as you can see from the last picture also, the line that goes around the spar should have come from above or the triple block and by-passed the double block.

 

 

I have done the fore mast, but I can still make the change on the mizzen and main. I will give that a try.

Thanks Dave for pointing out.

Edited March 14, 2013 by Modeler12

[Modeler12]

Geoff, the tenon for the bowcap is square on the bowsprit. But it is round for the flying jibboom that fits above that.

I guess that is what you had in mind??

[Geoff Matson]

Jay

 

On the laser cut part it is a small rectangle and looks to be rectangle on the plans. I plan on working with it over the next few days and post what I come up with. Thanks again for your great support

Edited March 14, 2013 by Geoff Matson

[Modeler12]

Jay

 

On the laser cut part it is a small rectangle and looks to be rectangle on the plans. I plan on working with it over the next few days and post what I come up with. Thanks again for your great support

Yes, that is correct. It is not possible to cut the holes with a laser the final way. The holes are sloping, so you have to file both to make them fit. Maybe the rough sketch below might help.