HM Bomb Vessel Granado 1756 by mrcc - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64

[Craigie65]

That's the spirit Julian.

 

I know what you mean about Timmo's work it is truely first rate. The art work on the bulkhead is fantastic and he makes it look so easy......

[mrcc]

I have finally had the opportunity to post some notes and progress...
I filled the quarterdeck bulwark with a scrap and then finished the inside with planks and sanding flush to the top to accommodate the capping rails.

The one problem was that I remember, once sanding the forecastle capping rails, was that I forgot to line the inner forecastle with a sliver of a plank. On the photo 5, it is evident of this, as when I was sanding from the outside, because I lost the 1mm plank width from the inside, I sanded into the cut outs in the capping rail. (instead of gaining that extra 1mm should I have remembered to put the bulwark plank in the forecastle)

Oops. Not sure how to fix it?

Edited May 11, 2014 by mrcc

[mrcc]

Now with the sheer rail... I used the supplied brass extrusion and used CA glue in stages and thought things were going well...

I bent the rail into shape using the gun pattern shape as a reference. I clamped and glued the rail in two stages with good results but because the rail towards the stern began to need a bend in a new plane, the rail actually snapped off its initial hold after finishing and painting the capping and sheer rails.

 

Not sure how to fix this this problem so it does not happen again. I presume I have to clean up both surfaces, sanding them, so I can reattempt the bond?

Edited May 11, 2014 by mrcc

[aliluke]

Hi Julian

I can't think of anything you can do about that popping rail except as you suggest - retry. I wonder if the upward sweep of the planking at the stern is too extreme (but I don't know the kit or the instructions and I wouldn't attempt to change it in any case)? I guess an alternative glue such as an epoxy is an option. I hate epoxy glue but it is incredibly strong and after clamping for 12 - 24 hours while it dries there is no way that plank will pop again. However you have to get the set out right as getting if off afterwards if it is wrong would be difficult.

 

As for the forecastle bulwark plank - I'd just paint the area red and forget about it.

 

Everything is coming together really well on your Granado, the decks look great, and the issues you describe seem very minor to me.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[mrcc]

Thanks Alistair... Yes, the upward sweep is a bit extreme as you can see when it popped off, it went back to its "natural" position.

Yes, I will try to reattach the brass rail with CA, cleaning up the surface prior to its bonding.

 

Thanks for your input!

Julian

[aliluke]

I just noticed it is brass! I thought it was wood. In that case I reckon epoxy glue is your answer. If the rail is under that much stress I think the CA will give up every time. When I have to, I use Epiglass Epiglue which must be about one of the strongest glues out there. I think it would work for a brass to wood joint but you should leave it clamped for at least 24 hours if not 48 hours. It is awful stuff fumes wise and I hate getting it on my fingers which is unavoidable. It is also quite difficult to clean off any excess after it dries. May be have another go with CA first...

 

Cheers

Alistair

[mrcc]

Thanks again Alistair!

I appreciate your help!

Julian

[mrcc]

Finally some time to give an update as only able to get work done on "some" weekends... here we go, the windlass and belfry...

 

I have some mottling after the staining as a result of CA glue on some of the faces of the windlass. I think it just adds a bit of realism (if anything). I have to paint the bell yet or leave it a silver tone to the original casting supplied in the kit. 

 

[mrcc]

In another weekend, worked on the elm tree pumps... always a bit delicate and difficult when working on small parts and using CA glue. I have since primed and painted the parts but forgot to take pictures of the finished state.

[mrcc]

Lastly, completed the assembly of the jeer bits and topsail sheet bits... all easy work.

I found a great purpose of my wife's foot file as it is able to provide a really solid surface to sand those small wooden pieces prior to their assembly. In the past I was using a sanding sponge and at times was losing some of the definition of the wood due to it's soft surface. The final image I included gives an idea of the deck now in a more advance stage of finish. Still lots of work to do though...

Edited February 23, 2014 by mrcc

[Craigie65]

Hi Julian,

It's been a bit since I have popes into to see your progress. Very neat build. I too had problems with the brass sheer rail - epoxy resin glue and patience are definitely the answer! Also I found that the brass needs quite a bit of heat to get it soft enough to conform with the bow and the elevation at the quarterdeck.

 

Keep posting as I am a few steps behind and it is always good to see how others tackle the build

[mrcc]

Thanks Craig for your kind words... I actually ended up gently sanding the brass rail surface and tried again with CA glue and it seems quite solid now. I think it was a matter of prepping the surfaces better - ie sanding the brass rail backside.

[mrcc]

Got a few other thinks out of the way last weekend...

Got my ladders done with a simple jig using the kids' lego.

Painted and installed the barricade assembly and rough tree rail.

[Craigie65]

Like that jig for the ladders - need to keep it in mind.

[Timmo]

Glad you got that brass sorted Julian. Those sheer rails are looking good. Nice work with the Lego for the ladder jig. I'll have to steal that idea.

[aliluke]

Great work on the deck fittings Julian. I'm a fan of Lego jigs - a perfect right angle every time. Good stuff, your Granado is showing it's qualities - as a ship, a kit and by your build.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[mrcc]

Thanks for the comments Timmo / Craig...

 

I have to "tackle" the rigging on the cannons but I have been procrastinating on this. I am actually skipping ahead in the manual bypassing the gun rigging for now as I am worried whether I am up to the task. Just doing some research and I am a little worried about the fine detail work given the blocks are all 2.5 mm and not sure how it all fits together when putting it down on the deck.

 

PS Quick question on gluing the cannons down given the deck surface has already been varnished? I have been gluing down the smaller fittings and deck furniture with CA and they all seem to be strong bonds but I am not sure about the cannons and all the riggings?  Also, should I assemble the cannons to completion and just tuck them into and onto the deck?

 

Thanks,

Julian

Edited February 25, 2014 by mrcc

[Craigie65]

Hi Julian

That's a good question on the cannon. I decided not to glue down the carriages under the forecastle but rely on the various tackles and the breaching rope. Not a good idea as they are a bit wobbly (good technical term that). Happy that they cannot really be seen. Like you I am skipping ahead and building up other parts first as I reckon the cannon will go in pretty easily before moving to the masts. As to what to use to attach them I think I might just use wood glue as CA is so very unforgiving.

 

Would be interested in Timmo's views

[aliluke]

Julian

A couple of options for fixing the cannons to the deck:

- Put a brass pin under the cannons bed block and drill a hole  into the deck glue the pin and trucks to the deck with CA or epoxy glue

- Slightly flatten the trucks - just lightly run over sandpaper - so that there is a bigger bonding surface and glue to the deck with CA or epoxy glue

- Do both

 

I certainly think cannons that you can't access in the future need to be glued down.

 

BTW thanks for the PM.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[mrcc]

Thanks Alistair... much appreciated information!

So do you do all the rigging off the deck before you mount and glue everything down?

Edited February 24, 2014 by mrcc

[aliluke]

Yes I do except for the side tackles which I pre-rig but finally tension after the cannon is fixed down. I glue those rope ends to the deck and place a rope coil over the glued down ends.

[mrcc]

Perfect Alistair! Thank-you!

 

I thought as much...

I noticed on all the forums that there is no specific information on how to best do it.

It seems everyone's cannons' magically rig themselves and set themselves on the deck.

I wish mine would do so...

[mrcc]

Finally some time to provide some posts. I have been doing some work on the model but only when time permits and on sporadic weekends. I have also been jumping around in the manual, procrastinating on rigging the cannons (I guess). Here are some images of the fenders, anchor linings, and side steps. I noticed upon posting, some fine detailing (sanding) that I have to yet do on the side steps.

[mrcc]

I also completed the lower and upper cheeks with the headrails. The work always looked better to my 50 year old eyes until you see the imperfections on the photo. Needless to say I have some detail and touch-up painting to do.

Edited May 11, 2014 by mrcc

[mrcc]

I started to create some of the rigging for the cannons but this was as far as I got.

Edited May 11, 2014 by mrcc

[mrcc]

I next focused on the transom decoration which I think turned out OK.

[mrcc]

Well this next step was an absolute disaster for me as I really butchered the sweep ports lids. I tried them all closed... knowing this would be the easiest to get completed. I first had trouble with the hinges and getting them centered on to the port lid and as they were slightly undersized to completely cover the port, they look terrible. I seemed to also have trouble with super glue and its fast set up time. Also my cuts on the 0.5x3 mm strip were terrible. I think I will be tearing them all off but not sure how to salvage the hinges?

 

It is like a 2 year old did them... oops!

[aliluke]

Lots of progress there. The stern looks good. One thought there though  if the gladiators holding the bombs have flesh painted faces shouldn't their arms and legs also be flesh coloured?

 

On the cannon rigging - the breeching ropes go through a ring bolt on the side of the cannon. If you have tied them off to ring bolts and eyes at both ends then you won't be able to thread them through the ring bolt on the side of the cannon unless that ring is over scale. When I did them I threaded the rope onto the cannon and then tied them off at each end to a ring on an eye bolt. This is done while the cannon is off the model.

 

As for the sweep port lids - you could get away with no lid. It is a nice detail to add but, for instance, the Fly model I'm working on doesn't have lids. I considered adding them but have decided not to. Anyway it is a solution that will save you further grief with those tiny hinges.

[Timmo]

A sharp blade might shave them off.

[mrcc]

Thanks for the tips of advise... Alistair, Timmo

 

Alistair, with regards to the rigging, you are right, I just tied off the ring bolts on one strand of string to make it easier to handle. I will cut the thread in half, thread the ends through the bolts on the carriage and CA them on the "cascabel"

 

And yes you are right about the flesh coloring on the legs, I will be doing some touchup painting. Thanks!

 

With regards to the sweep port lids, do you think they would look OK without the hinges should I recut them all slightly larger and reattach them, scrapping the old "garbage" I put on? Or best to leave the port lids off the model?