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Hi All,

 

John (AKA Jim Ladd) suggested in another forum (Metal Work) that if I was crazy enough, I might want to try to use a jeweler's tap and die. Well I went ahead and picked this up on E-bay for not a lot of $:

 

post-18302-0-57560900-1434069886.jpg

 

I've played around with it with some small success. Now....can any one help me use it correctly? Cutting threads is pretty straight forward and easy. I was even, after quite a bit of trial and error, able to tap a hole which fit the threads. My question is basically if there a way to determine the size hole to drill for the tap? I would assume it would be the inside diameter of the thread, but how do I figure that out. I'm hoping there is something simple which has to do with the corresponding holes in the die, but right now that eludes me.

 

Best,

John

 

PS. I tried it out tonight and came up with this:

 

post-18302-0-10418300-1434070366.jpg

 

The bolt head needs to be filed down a bit but the other end actually screws into the loop.

 

Regardless, if any one has any pointers on how to best use this tool, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

 

John

Edited by Landlocked123

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_drill_and_tap_sizes

 

When cutting the threads, go slow. 1/4 turn in, 1/8 turn out. Go slow. Use cutting fluid. Not sure if I mentioned it, but GO SLOW! You will break taps.

Edited by justsayrow

 

====================================

Currently building: Model Expo AMERICA, A/L KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI

 

Completed: Mamoli Victory cross-section, Revell LSM (Plastic, in memory of Dad), A/L SANSON tug, MS Longboat (awesome model Chuck!), Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing runabout, A/L SWIFT, MS ELSIE, Constructo ELIDIR (now LOUISE), Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Amati 1:80 Yacht ENDEAVOUR, Mamoli CONSTITUTION cross section, Revell VIIc U-boat (1:72 plastic), lotsa other plastic ships 

 

Next up: who knows - there are too many to choose from!

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These charts are correct for good mechanical strength.  On a model you do not need that strength.  You will have an easier time of it and break fewer taps if you use 95% of outside diameter.  In other words you just need to cut enough of a thread so the screw does not fall out on its own.    And as justsayrow says' "GO SLOW".

 

Bob

Edited by Cap'n'Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

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