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Bounty by Gentlegiant - Artesania Latina


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I start to build the Bounty , i read all log that i find on the Bounty.

I have a question right in the first step as you see in photos the false kell and the frames 4 to 10 are not right . I need to put the false keel and the frames all very nice at 90 degre ?

post-19020-0-58112000-1444149307_thumb.jpg

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Hi there GG. I built the OcCre version and in my opinion you are right. All your frames must sit at right angles (90 degrees) to the keel and each other. It is difficult to tell from your photo but, are your frames warped?

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

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It was a long time since I built this kit, but I seem to remember that the frames were very flexible until the lower deck was installed. I suggest you dry fit the lower deck and see if it pulls the frames into alignment. Use it as a guide for further frames. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that the frames are aligned, all sorts of trouble awaits you further down the build if they are not! 

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Hello.

This was my third wooden ship. Unfortunately the old log was lost. 

As mentioned before, get a metal square like in these photos (of another ship, but the procedure is the same), so you make sure all your frames are exactly at 90' deg. against the keel.

post-975-0-84736200-1444151768_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-28529500-1444151794_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-18149500-1444151810_thumb.jpg

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Good to see you started a build log.

 

This is a critical step in the build as others have said, so take your time making sure the frames are square to the keel as well as checking the vertical alignment.  Then check the top of the frames for being level across the width of each frame (use a level).  

 

Unlike the stronger bulkhead type, these frames are very flexible as Keith mentions prior to laying all the decks so special care must be taken. 

 

Once I had the whole frame dry fitted (all the frames prior to gluing) I set both the lower and middle decks in place to help check alignment of the frames.

 

As I was gluing each frame up I continued to check the tops of each frame with my level.  This is important to be sure your main deck will flow evenly over the top of all the frames.   I also laid the main/top deck across all the frames to see how it looked to my eye. 

 

I totally agree with Keith that you can use the lower deck to help align the frames (and use the middle deck as well).

 

Good luck with the build  :) 

 

 

 

Here is are a couple of pictures of my frames as I glued them up (using squares and blocks, as well as a level across the tops of each frame as they were glued up.  

post-17392-0-04338800-1444172389_thumb.jpg

post-17392-0-22099400-1444172394_thumb.jpg

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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Hello. You can glue all the frames you want, as long as you have enough tools to keep all of them properly aligned.

 

Wait at least overnight BEFORE removing the alignment tools, though.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ulises

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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As Keith W suggested to you earlier, if you dry fit the first deck you can use that to take up the small curve you refer to and I think you will find that will work.

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

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Thomas  i e-mail to the vendor and to the Artesania Latina in Spain, this is just since fourth days but now news. I have an e-mail from a retailer in Scotland  he give to me the address of the constructor in Spain.

 

I take the High Tech Cut in the kit and i calculate with 371% + on a copier i have the right dimention on paper .And i buy two Basswood of 4x24 inches (100mmx600mm)and i want to copi the paper on the wood and cut for make the two deck. I don't know if i use x-acto or with a scrool saw i buy a third piece of wood for make test. I give you some result.

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Hello GG. I think this will do. Remember that all the imperfections can be covered with the planking.  ;)

Believe me... I know what I'm talking about.  :D

 

Best regards

 

Ulises

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Hi GG, it looks good ... but I am not sure if balsa is a good choice of material for this application. Those frames will be subject to a lot of force as planking builds up, and I am not sure if they will hold the frames without breaking. Plywood may have been a better choice. If I were you, I would consider planking both sides of that balsa or consider remaking the part in ply. Good luck! 

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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I would agree with Keith, the decks are the primary parts of the structure that strengthen the otherwise delicate/flimsy frames.  I actually put dowels in every frame/crossbeam joint (on every level) to further strengthen the hull structure.

 

Double planking would be the next best thing to using plywood.

 

And I agree with Ulises as well, the planking will cover a multitude of sins  :)

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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Sorry. It seems I missed the balsa part. Both Boyd and Keith are right about its strength, or lack of it.  :huh:

It sounds strange to me that you say plywood is not available in your town, when it is a product so widely used in an enormous amount of projects.  :o

 

Anyway, if you are going the double plank method, my I suggest you put the planks underneath running from port to starboard, running the width of the ship. This will increase the strength when you put the upper planks perpendicular to them, running the length of the ship.

Am I clear?  :rolleyes:

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Hello again GG.

 

I may be mistaken but I don't think there even exists plywood in 1.5 mm. And if I remember correctly, the false decks in my Bounty were made of some kind of thick veneer. You may explore this option also.

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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