Bounty by Gentlegiant - Artesania Latina

[Gentlegiant]

I start to build the Bounty , i read all log that i find on the Bounty.

I have a question right in the first step as you see in photos the false kell and the frames 4 to 10 are not right . I need to put the false keel and the frames all very nice at 90 degre ?

[Mike Dowling]

Hi there GG. I built the OcCre version and in my opinion you are right. All your frames must sit at right angles (90 degrees) to the keel and each other. It is difficult to tell from your photo but, are your frames warped?

[Keith_W]

It was a long time since I built this kit, but I seem to remember that the frames were very flexible until the lower deck was installed. I suggest you dry fit the lower deck and see if it pulls the frames into alignment. Use it as a guide for further frames. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that the frames are aligned, all sorts of trouble awaits you further down the build if they are not! 

[Gentlegiant]

i can glue the frame and fit all wen i put the lower deck  very interesting Thanks

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello.

This was my third wooden ship. Unfortunately the old log was lost. 

As mentioned before, get a metal square like in these photos (of another ship, but the procedure is the same), so you make sure all your frames are exactly at 90' deg. against the keel.

[Gentlegiant]

Ulises O.K i have metal square and some spring clamps thank you this is really clear with the photo.

[thomaslambo]

Good to see you started a build log.

 

This is a critical step in the build as others have said, so take your time making sure the frames are square to the keel as well as checking the vertical alignment.  Then check the top of the frames for being level across the width of each frame (use a level).  

 

Unlike the stronger bulkhead type, these frames are very flexible as Keith mentions prior to laying all the decks so special care must be taken. 

 

Once I had the whole frame dry fitted (all the frames prior to gluing) I set both the lower and middle decks in place to help check alignment of the frames.

 

As I was gluing each frame up I continued to check the tops of each frame with my level.  This is important to be sure your main deck will flow evenly over the top of all the frames.   I also laid the main/top deck across all the frames to see how it looked to my eye. 

 

I totally agree with Keith that you can use the lower deck to help align the frames (and use the middle deck as well).

 

Good luck with the build   

 

 

 

Here is are a couple of pictures of my frames as I glued them up (using squares and blocks, as well as a level across the tops of each frame as they were glued up.  

Edited October 6, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Gentlegiant]

Thomas tank for the level it's another good idea

[Captain Al]

Welcome GG to the A.L. Bounty club.  I'll be watching your build and maybe from time to time can offer some good advice.  At this point all I can add is that you've gotten great advice from the others and I agree with it all.

[Gentlegiant]

Thank You Captain A.L.

[Gentlegiant]

I glue the frame at my best ,if i let 2 hours before glue another frame is that o.k.?

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello. You can glue all the frames you want, as long as you have enough tools to keep all of them properly aligned.

 

Wait at least overnight BEFORE removing the alignment tools, though.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ulises

[Gentlegiant]

The frame are perfect with the keel but there are little curve in the other side ?

[Mike Dowling]

As Keith W suggested to you earlier, if you dry fit the first deck you can use that to take up the small curve you refer to and I think you will find that will work.

[Gentlegiant]

Hello I am forced to take a brake ,i do not have the plywood with the first and second deck ,i email to the seller and i wait for an answer,

[Gentlegiant]

If someone have the frame of the first and the second deck (22810-3).I am interesting . I search all the solutions.

[Gentlegiant]

a photocopie of the plan x 3.714 give just the good scale for trace it on a 1.5mm plywood. It will take a copier with the possibilite of print the copie x 3.714 . I don't know if it 371%.

[thomaslambo]

So sorry to hear about the missing deck pieces.

 

Have you tried working through the vendor you purchased the model from to get replacement parts? 

[Gentlegiant]

Thomas  i e-mail to the vendor and to the Artesania Latina in Spain, this is just since fourth days but now news. I have an e-mail from a retailer in Scotland  he give to me the address of the constructor in Spain.

 

I take the High Tech Cut in the kit and i calculate with 371% + on a copier i have the right dimention on paper .And i buy two Basswood of 4x24 inches (100mmx600mm)and i want to copi the paper on the wood and cut for make the two deck. I don't know if i use x-acto or with a scrool saw i buy a third piece of wood for make test. I give you some result.

[thomaslambo]

Sounds like a good plan    

 

Will you make cardboard templates first?  

[Gentlegiant]

Yes i will make a cardboard with the paper and if the cardboard fit i will cut the balsa. The two rear first deck ,the two front first deck and the second deck un two parts, right and the small part left. i thing the carboard will be hard to do.

[Gentlegiant]

This is my new first deck made with balsa. This is not perfect but i thing it is o.k..

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello GG. I think this will do. Remember that all the imperfections can be covered with the planking. 

Believe me... I know what I'm talking about. 

 

Best regards

 

Ulises

[Keith_W]

Hi GG, it looks good ... but I am not sure if balsa is a good choice of material for this application. Those frames will be subject to a lot of force as planking builds up, and I am not sure if they will hold the frames without breaking. Plywood may have been a better choice. If I were you, I would consider planking both sides of that balsa or consider remaking the part in ply. Good luck! 

[thomaslambo]

I would agree with Keith, the decks are the primary parts of the structure that strengthen the otherwise delicate/flimsy frames.  I actually put dowels in every frame/crossbeam joint (on every level) to further strengthen the hull structure.

 

Double planking would be the next best thing to using plywood.

 

And I agree with Ulises as well, the planking will cover a multitude of sins 

[Gentlegiant]

O.K. thank You There are no plywood in my town But double planking is an exellent idea , I will double plank.

[Ulises Victoria]

Sorry. It seems I missed the balsa part. Both Boyd and Keith are right about its strength, or lack of it. 

It sounds strange to me that you say plywood is not available in your town, when it is a product so widely used in an enormous amount of projects. 

 

Anyway, if you are going the double plank method, my I suggest you put the planks underneath running from port to starboard, running the width of the ship. This will increase the strength when you put the upper planks perpendicular to them, running the length of the ship.

Am I clear? 

Edited October 11, 2015 by Ulises Victoria

[Gentlegiant]

Ulises There are many plywood from (Bouleau). But they are Nothing in 1.5mm .

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello again GG.

 

I may be mistaken but I don't think there even exists plywood in 1.5 mm. And if I remember correctly, the false decks in my Bounty were made of some kind of thick veneer. You may explore this option also.

[Altduck]

Micro-Mark lists 1/16" Plywood (close to 1.5mm) as well as other thicknesses in inch dimensions, if that would help.

 

Richard