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So, there is a bevy of "new" bonding agents like Bondic that use a resin that is cured when it come into contact with UV light.  I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these agents and how they work for our little niche of the modeling world.

 

http://www.bondicusa.com/collections/shop?gclid=Cj0KEQiA7rmzBRDezri2r6bz1qYBEiQAg-YEtoLDOIq1-3Y9fm93hG9N8A3Yi3eNQAbMlv-6m1Zt5s4aAkwo8P8HAQ

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I was thinking the same thing last night when I saw a commercial for something called "5 sec fix".  Look forward to hearing from anyone that has used one of these products.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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I did a little on-line investigation -  one source called it more like caulk than glue.  It was pointed out that if UV can't get to it, it will not undergo the necessary chemical reaction.  I think it is more of a surface tack weld than a glue.  It might work to hold two pieces in a location so that PVA glue can set up - when the pieces are where physical clamping is not possible, but can the UV material then be removed easily and leave no trace?

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Could be a replacement for some epoxy applications but only when light can get through so I think very limited usefulness for modelling. Looks very expensive also. 

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Dentists have been using UV-cured adhesives/epoxies for years, as you may know.

 

About 7-10 years ago, I worked with some UV-cure adhesives for assembling biomedical instrumentation.  I don't know/remember the chemistries of them, but back then there were basically two types.  

 

One type requires exposure to UV light (and nothing else), and so if the UV light can not penetrate the materials to be bonded, then the adhesive will never cure.  

 

>It is important to remember that for many/most materials, that transparency to UV light is not at all the same as transparency for visible light.<  

 

The other basic glue type can be cured by UV light for initial or total curing, but it can also be cured by heating.  This means that some materials that are UV-opaque or semi-opaque can be 'surface' bonded by UV light exposure, but full bonding can also be accomplished by heating the materials, to fully cure the UV glue.

 

I hope this tidbit is useful to you.

 

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Oh, and don't forget about the Big UV light in the Sky that can be used to cure the UV glue.  

 

You can carefully lay out the parts on a tray and then apply the glue at your leisure, and then take the tray outside for curing.  Maybe better for you, you can do your layout beside a sunny window that has been temporarily covered with aluminum foil. , When you're ready, just open the window to cure the glue.

I also made some judicious use of a magnifying glass, a couple of times.  The glass concentrated the UV light and also concentrated the thermal energy of the the sun to complete a cure.  (Jeez, some people thought I was sunbathing on company time and burning ants!) 

Edited by Bob Blarney
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