Sternwheeler by Keith Simmons - FINISHED - 1/4" = 1' - no plans

[Keith Simmons]

Hi guys,

 

              First I want to apologize for not keeping the build log current with the build. I was multi- tasking by working on the wheel and rails at the same time and before I knew it the exterior was done...   Anyway, let me see if I can back track a bit and make some sense of this log. Hopefully I can figure out how to sequence the photos with a description. If not I will just separate them with replies. 

 

              

 

              With the hull section I wanted to show the engine room and wheel structure. I'm still deciding what I want to do with the aft compartment, I am leaning towards a bar under construction. As for the wheel, I started off with a 1 1/2" plug of Bubinga and knowing the diameter was to be 6" I started mass producing Pine spokes 2 1/4" long. Then it was just a matter of pinning the hubs to my little living room work table and gluing the 32 spokes. Once I had 2 sides of the wheel spokes done I started filling in the perimeter with 10 degree connection pieces. Once that dried I added the Bubinga connectors also 10 degree cuts. At this point I started building the wheel hanging structure to get the overall wheel length ( 7" ). Since I wanted the wheel to turn, I cut a bunch of paddles out of pine and Bubinga then glued them in a pattern that make the wheel strobe as it was turned. Worked out pretty good....

 

 

 

 

                In this section I wanted to build a small theater so I set a stage and made several pews ( they were easier than actual seating..lol  Keep in mind, the only tools I am using are a coping saw and a drill and I want the boat to look under construction. I'm not sure the columns are apparent but that is what they are suppose to be...

 

     

 

                With this section I have the stacks and  wheelhouse . Planning on a wheel and a desk or something for this interior. As for the stacks, I have a bunch of stair pickets from my many years of home building and I just cut them apart and glue sections together to get the desired size and shape, In this case I also used some 7/8" rubber O-rings to create the weld lips which you see on this type of stack.

 

 

                  Then the top section shows the rail system which uses 220 clear push pins with a Bubinga rail. Since the wood was too hard to just push the pins into place I had to drill the holes and then cut of 80% off of the actual pin then glue a place.

 

 

                   Hopefully, I shed a little light on how I build these models, I never have a detailed plan. I get a picture in my head then try to make it come to life, With that kind of process things can and do change all the time, A good example was the suggestion by Patrick to show the framing. That turned into the starboard side being the ( under construction ) side, Thanks Patrick, good call....    Anyway, thank you all for your interest and once I start my next build I will try to make the log a bit more interesting.  Hint:  It is going to be war ship...

 

                  Thanks again and everyone have a great day,  Keith

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

              

[Mike Dowling]

I think your build is brilliant. I love the rails and the use of the glass pins is fantastic. I would love to know a bit more about how you made the paddle wheels as in managing to keep them so beautifully circular.

Anyway, wonderful work, I wish I were that clever !"

[popeye the sailor]

....I knew they were push pins!         brilliantly done!   of course.......if a plan was used,  there would be no freedom.   wonderful work and very resourceful.   looking forward in seeing your next build  

[Keith Simmons]

I think your build is brilliant. I love the rails and the use of the glass pins is fantastic. I would love to know a bit more about how you made the paddle wheels as in managing to keep them so beautifully circular.

Anyway, wonderful work, I wish I were that clever !"

Hi Mike,

              Thanks for your comments. I think the key to getting a circular wheel is using 16 spokes. All I did with mine was to set spokes 4 at a time on imaginary compass points starting with N S E W, then I just split each space equally until all 16 spokes were used. After finding a common measurement between the spokes I cut the connecting pieces at 10 degrees and glued them into place 4 at a time using the compass points. I have done other wheels with 8 or 12 spokes and they weren't as round as I wanted. So in my opinion 16 spokes makes all the difference.

                Hope this made sense, worth a try anyway....  

 

      Thanks, Keith 

[Mike Dowling]

Many thanks Keith, I build carriages etc when not doing boats so the info is really useful for both. Many thanks.