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Posted (edited)

Might be a long shot, but has anyone uses General Finishes Dye on basswood, something like their Vintage Cherry? I'm trying to visualize what that would look like.

 

In general, how are their waterbased dyes in terms of grain lifting (they say they include some resin to minimize it, but that implies there will still be some lifting).

 

B

Edited by Sunsanvil
Posted

You can probably minimize this problem:

Treat the surface with an application of 5-10% PVA wood glue

in water and let it dry. Sand/scrape the surface and then

use the aniline dye.  The swelling fibers would be much less

with the second .  Aniline wood dyes also come as Iso/ethyl alcohol

soluble to avoid swelling wood fibers.  The cost is that the dye does

not penetrate as deeply as water base dye.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
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Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

A trick from the gunsmithing trade is to simply wet the sanded wood and let it dry. A well dampened rag will do. After it dries, rub down the now raised grain and wet it again. When the wood is smooth after wetting you're done. This works on woods like walnut, maple and cherry. Basswood with its fuzzy grain structure might be another matter.

 

Roger

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