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DarkAngel

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    Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia
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    Building stuff, electric mountain biking, kayaking, travelling.

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  1. Hull update Here's an update, I almost forgot to section up the 2nd planking area, which would have been disastrous when trying to taper correctly. tip You can never have too many clamps
  2. Thanks Mark, that would be helpful I hope you are enjoying the beach. I have 'Knots 3D' on my Android phone from the Google Playstore. Cost a few dollars and has animations of how to tie the various knots listed above and can rotate the image to view different angles, rewind, flip image etc.... There's a section on Boating Knots with detailed descriptions with over 100 knots including variations and a little history of each. However I would like to know which knots people have used for their builds.
  3. Hull 2nd planking The plan is to avoid using tree nails or putting holes in the walnut planking, So my strategy is to plank section by section using clamps with any pins to be used on the 1st planking only. I forsee the last walnut plank will infact need to be pinned into place, however if I can position that last plank up on the whales below the Lower Gun Deck, then I can add an extra layer on the whale to cover any visible holes in the hull, and perhaps use weights to complete the whale layer. note: I am avoiding having a perfectly sculptured hull as I don't think the Victory would have had wood filler available I will use a little on 'dents' however from over zealous clamping on the 1st planking. Let's see how that goes.
  4. Thanks EJ, I have now started 2nd planking with a clean hull Ships knots I have begun to research the various ships knots that may be needed on the HMS Victory... Deadeye terminal knot : Ashley Stopper Knot aka Oyster Knot Mast to deck lines attached to deck eyebolts under tension: Midshipman's Hitch or Taut-line Hitch or Buntline Hitch or Running Bowline Stopper knot used on various blocks to prevent the line from running through: Stevedore's Knot or Figure of Eight aka Flemish knot Cannon pulley terminal knot used on various length pulleys: Heaving Line Knot Sails 'reefing and furling': Square Knot aka Reef Knot Mast Rigging ladders: cross threaded rope : Clove Hitch aka Builders Knot Piling, Mooring, Column or Ring permanent hitch: Round Turn and Two Half Hitches or Overhand Knot Dock Post or Bollard mooring line without access to end of rope: Pile Hitch If anyone wants to contribute I'm all ears
  5. Quarterdeck update Here's a look at the rope channels with a grate alongside. Still need to redo the stairs with wooden balustrade's and a bit wider than currently. Taking a look at these pics makes me realise which fittings are out of alignment. So I'll be redoing a few things, like the deck eyebolt's on the right. Tommorrow I should be receiving a narrower grate and then I'll be redoing the forward grates a bit wider and adding the forward belaying pin rack with 3 pulleys on each side ! I'm thinking of crafting some "red coat" marine's as there is none I can find that are the right scale. and not ridiciously expensive Adding figures will help viewers to realise the scale of the HMS Victory.
  6. Aha !... yes I have a Garboard strake. When I sectioned up the hull I made sure to include 2 Garboard strakes as part of the sectioning calculations. Another section complete The hull is beginning to take shape I'm thinking of gluing the 2nd planking directly onto the smoothed 1st planking, Does anyone use a sealer layer between the two ?
  7. Thanks Mark... now I need to look up "Garboard" I look forward to continuing to follow your build too once you get back to it. Gallery updates
  8. Quarterdeck update Upon further study I have discovered a more accurate reflection of the Quarterdeck main mast section. I have added 6mm brass pulleys from the Billings wire reel kit and opened up the channel in the deck to the Upper Deck below. These pulleys are useable as they spin smoothly inside the posts, and can be used for various tasks, like maneuvering cannons or as a hoist where many men can gather and pull the ropes. There are also six eyerings around the base of the main mast I need to consider... does anyone know the layout of these. Here's some pic's of my progress on the Quarterdeck thus far. I'll add a removeable grate across the rope channel and complete the same on the other side of the mast. Removeable Quarterdeck Notice the aged kauri pine framing addition to the deck channel. Quarterdeck update on ship Temporarily attached back on the Victory to take a look at the mod on the ship.
  9. Hull update Filling the gaps Check out the pics from the completed planking section. I widened the gap to ensure the sealing plank is not less than 1/2 the original thickness and ended the plank on the bulkhead. This method is recommended to use near the stern or hull... my join is a little further away from the stern. There was also small gap as the thickest part of the plank didn't quite cover the widest gap. This could have been avoided perhaps if I took more attention to measuring the section guide plank with more precision on each bulkhead. For the 1st planking I just used the natural bend of the wood from a few measured sections, however for the 2nd planking I will measure each section from the bulkhead and mark the boundaries with pencil over the 1st planking. This will be good for alternate planking between the 1st and 2nd layers of planking. First look at the last gap area. Gap widened to enable another plank to next bulkhead Test fit the filler plank After whittling the plank to fit the gap, test fitting, trimming some more and then filing until it fits nicely I clamped the plank into place as a final check before committing to gluing into place. Unfortunately there is a 2mm gap wider than the thickest part of the plank remaining which means another filler plank is also required. This kind of issue can be avoided on the 2nd planking by having more precise sectioning measurements Gluing and Clamping into place I managed to get away without using pins causing holes in the filler plank by just using clamps to bind onto the surrounding planks which are already flush with the bulkheads. I used PVA glue only as I didn't need to soak the wood as the bends were only minimal and could be undertaken with the wood as it is. note: Using PVA glue actually strengthens the thinner planks as the glue on each edge creates a strong bond. To be continued after glue dries... one last plank required for the 2mm gap pictured (on the left) The Walnut strip is there as a test fit (see previous post). Section complete
  10. Walnut bend test Soaked the walnut test strip for about an hour in the boiling water and vinegar solution, and went to mow the back lawn. Check out the walnut 1mm x 5mm on the most extreme bends on the Stern. Two opposing bends in close proximity worked like a champion I clamped the walnut 2nd planking onto the hull directly and left there until the wood dries. note: I reboil the same water and vinegar solution in the kettle each time I do planking, the vinegar is great for cleaning the inside of the kettle ! Also the vinegar only gets stronger each time the water is boiled.
  11. Updated pics above on Hull build. It's a time consuming job however I'm managing laying 3 - 4 planks per day. Hull planking method Firstly I consider where the plank is going to be positioned, sometimes doing a test lay (without bending) to mark the approx row position with a pencil helps. Cut the end to fit the intended connection point with the keel on the bow and or stern My method for bending the wood to the hull is to soak the end(s) of the plank in boiling water mixed with a little vinegar to loosen up the wood fibers. Test the bend required directly onto the hull when the plank is hot and well soaked, leaving in boiling hot water for about 10 - 20 mins is ok for the 1st planking limewood I have found. Check the length required for the laying of the plank after bending and cut the length as required Then I put the plank back in the boiled hot water to soften the other end as often on the lower hull, there are extreme bends on the stern as well as the gentle curve of the bow Test the newly heated end on the bend and take care to support any extreme bends with your finger to reduce the chance of the wood splintering, then I put it back in the water for a few mins. At this stage I apply PVA glue to the bulkheads and along the sides of each plank adjacent to the one I am about to lay, also I use Gorilla Glue on the Stern and Bow blocks. Attach the more extreme bend side first, clamping with pressure against the keel with a small flat piece of offcut helps to disperse the side pressure along the end to fit the keel. Pin on the extreme bend helps support the wood at the most stressed point and avoids splintering there I have found. Pin each bulkhead to clamp the plank firmly along the length of the hull. Sometimes I pin every second bulkhead to work my way to the Bow where I can secure the front end by clamping firmly to the keel, then I go back and pin each bulkhead I missed. Small clamps are good to use to enable the adjacent planks are flush between bulkheads, and will help to maintain a smooth hull throughout the planking process. Double check the ends and connections to make sure they are positioned correctly and haven't moved or come loose. I do this by pressing down on the wood to make sure it's firmly attached. Take note of the curing time for the glue used. PVA is a quick dry glue however I like to leave the clamps and pins on overnight as Gorilla Glue has a 12 hour cure time. Once glue and wood has dried completely test the bond by removing a central pin or clamp, then every second one, then all the clamps if you are happy with the bond. If a section has not glued in place, simply re glue and pin or clamp again and leave to cure again. I prefer to just lay one row at a time and allow the wood to dry and glue to cure before attempting the next row. In my case I also trace the overlay plank for tapering sections and then cut a taper into the planks carefully with a sharp modelling knife. notes The Walnut second layer is going to require a longer soaking time as the wood is harder I assume, also overlaying the first layer at a staggered laying will strengthen the hull better. I can use a similar laying pattern but use a different tapering method with a focus on overlapping the 1st planking. I plan on using PVA glue on the second planking, however Gorilla Glue works better on wet wood sections, so I shall continue to use it on the bended ends on the Bow and Stern. At the Stern, near the Keel that is adjacent to the Rudder, I am thinking of thinning down the first planking quite a bit on the flat keel part and leaving a gap in the planking end between the end of the keel and the beginning of the rudder for the 2nd planking only. This section is where the roman numerals indicating depth of waterline is to be located.
  12. Vintage Corel HMS Endeavour 1:60 SM4 kit acquired I found this used kit on the internet, and couldn't pass up the opportunity to build the HMS Endeavour. It's the most revelant tall ship here in Australia and New Zealand as Captain Cook's ship of discovery. I'm thinking of donating it to the local library once completed. It's a good size at 780 mm long and I'm hoping all the parts are there in the box, however I have a feeling I'll be modifying the build in any case.
  13. Update Gallery... I'm going with an even planking on each side, also my plan is to create as little pressure on the bulkheads throughout this process as possible. I am going for a close fit between the planks on the first planking as practice before I begin the second planking. Ideally I'd like to avoid using any wood filler and if I can get away with minimal sanding on the first layer of planking, that would be great. So far it's shaping up quite nice around the curves of the bulkheads. I am pinning down each plank firmly to each bulkhead to ensure a good fit with no gaps under the planking or between the planks. This should enable a stronger hull
  14. Hull update Here's a few pics of my progress. I found that tapering the wood on the hull after gluing works great. Simply line up the next plank and trace the intended overlap and then cut with a sharp modelling knife before laying the next plank, I've worked out how many planks are in each section and will continue to monitor the tapered sections as I go to recalculate the approximate tapering required to make a good tight fit of all the hull planks. My plan is not to taper any one plank more than half it's original thickness. Also I have clamped the layers together to keep the planks flush with one another in between the bulheads. The glue on the edges of the planks works great for binding between bulkheads.

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