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DarkAngel

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    Building stuff, electric mountain biking, kayaking, travelling.

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  1. Tips BY NO MEANS CAN I TAKE ANY CREDIT FOR THESE WONDERFUL IDEA'S Gluing and Prefabrication Diluted PVA mix with water : I read in a blog somewhere here that thinning down PVA glue to a weaker consistency helps later when structural sections need taking apart and redoing. Building a solid strong level hull Setting the keel straight and true is important to getting everything right and level right off the bat. Use a jig to hold the front and end of the ship in place level and true at 90 deg while assembling the bulkhead framing, screwing down brackets onto the baseboard is good to keep the model level. measure and remeasure the levels to make sure everything is level often after attaching or reattaching new sections. Excess wood can be trimmed later once the framing is complete to save mistakes being permanent in the early stages of the build.
  2. Build Modifications Rear Cabin Look at rebuilding this part entirely to be more accurate with the original HMS Victory in dimensions, details and may have a go at wood carving the decorations at some point Cannon framing and Port Liners Prefabricating framing directly into the bulkheads to allow accurate placement of cannon hatches, whales and wood choice for hull planking. That's the theory anyway. Reforming Parts
  3. Model limitations Scale There are many sections I have noticed that don't seem to match the original pics of the HMS Endeavour as taken in Portsmouth and I'd like to change the visual aesthetic to be in line with the original as much as possible. Rear Cabin The size of this and the build looks all out of whack, this is important as it sets the placement of the rows of cannons on the hull and needs to be completely reworked in my opinion to make the hull more in line with the original HMS Victory. Deck levels and Cannon hatch framing My initial thoughts are that these will need to be adjusted to accomodate the correct placement of the third row of cannons near the waterline. I'm going to consider this when assembling the bulkheads and adding a frame to position the cannon hatches on the various rows of cannons before planking the hull.
  4. Tool Kit Wooden Pine Artists Box Pull out long tray to keep wood strips flat Small medication bottles - for keeping small parts in a sealed plastic container - labelled by part # and name Syringes - for PVA glue storage and application Razor saw and blades - for sharp wood cutting modelling knife - extra chisel end blades Push pins - for planking Tooth picks - appplying PVA to small parts Dusting brush - cleaning dust and debris Clips - Clamps - for holding stuff together overnight Cutting mat - self healing mat to save your bench tops Tweezers - hook nose mini files - smoothing wood and castings Leatherman 'surge' - multi tool. Power tools mini bench saw or bench band saw mini lathe - remanufacturing belaying pins etc... sander - removing excess wood quickly, smoothing edges Steam cleaner - great for plank bending. Misc PVA glue - good to dilute for easy removal later on placements of structural parts Vice grips - just because I have lots of small vice grips
  5. HMS Victory 1805 A R R I V E D :: V I A :: POST Today I received the post packed HMS Victory 1805 SM23 wooden kit by Corel. I opened the box with trepidation however was pleasantly suprised to see nothing broken at first check, everything in is the original packaging and unopened. The maps and disgrams are crisp and new, in short it's a like new kit I purchased for about 1/3 of the normal price with free postage !. My plan is to redesign my living room to accommodate a modelling and display area. I have tools still arriving via post and a lot of preparation to undertake as yet before I will begin this epic project. My next few posts will include various topics for quick easy reference which I shall add to as I go along. Out of the Box Pics of the bits and pieces straight out of the box. Tool kit Tools acquired throughout the build Model limitations Notes built up from research on limitations, scale errors and other stock issues with this particular build Build Modifications Planned changes to make model more to scale, or true to the original in design or visual appearance Tips Tips found to be most useful in the build will be referenced here Ship Wrights Journal A diary type of account of my progress complete with pics to highlight the journey.
  6. Sure did Danny, and kudos to you my friend. That build is impressive and has given me an idea about what kind of tools to add to my wish list. The files for instance are interesting. Thanks for the heads up.
  7. Hi Dan, good to see an Aussie nearby has built the HMS Victory 1805 by Corel Do you think adding something like this to the bulkhead's would help line up the cannon rows with the waterline when planking the hull ?
  8. Wow thanks everyone, I feel like throwing a BBQ and having you all over for a steak Nice to see folks from all over posting here.
  9. Hi Jan, thanks for the info, I really like the le Soleil Royal, it's probably the Tintin ship for me I read the info on Wikipedia about the 1776 HMS Unicorn that was captured by the French and rebranded the La Licorne until it was recaptured back by the english and returned to HMS Unicorn. However I haven't really researched the subject further. Maybe we could start a new thread about the HMS Unicorn 1776 or La Licorne and discuss it further
  10. During the Renaissance, the Italians would paint over a base layer or fresco layer in paintings... not sure about ships though
  11. I wonder if anyone will flog the scientists for getting it wrong, or whomever decided to go ahead with that 'pink' colour scheme Nelson would be turning over in his grave I can imagine to see that mistake immortalized and encouraged with ship modelers for years to come.
  12. Morgan, your write up is very informative and interesting As an artist myself to get a pure yellow color it is common practice to put a base coat of white with a layer of yellow over the top. I'm wondering if this was done to freshen up the Victory instead of just painting a mixed yellow and white over the top. If the base material is not a uniform color / shade then that can create the effects of color variance of colors painted over it. On a large surface this would be more apparent, so it makes me think that a baselayer of white may have been used and then yellow over the top... meaning the final color would be pure yellow. This color may have been what Nelson had an issue with, and as there was yellow and white paint available I'm sure that some mixing would inevitable to experiment with different yellow paint options as you have mentioned, If more new coats were applied more often then perhaps the need to paint a white base coat was not needed as the color was still quite 'clean' underneath. This means that if the navy supplied paint had yellow and white available in the quantities mentioned then the mixing of those paints would be quite likely. Pure yellow aged in the sun would indeed pale over time and to match this when repainting, a yellow / white mix may attempted to match the aged yellow color. A new yellow color would be quite alot brighter and if there were many ships in a fleet painted at different times then I can see Nelson's issue and request for a pale yellow color to be used as standard. Of course this is just my 2 cents as an artist who works with oils in large pure abstract type colors. (ie large blocks of pure colors)
  13. Howdy I am an artist who works on canvas with oils... you may be suprised to know that a base coat of acrylic white as a base coat actually helps the colors applied over it to be crisp and true and not dulled by the material it is painted upon. Alternatively if you want to try different shades of say yellow, you can try painting another color as a base layer and then see how a coat of yellow over the top responds to that once the base coat is dry. Building up thin coats will give you a deeper, richer finished color. Acylics are thinned with water... oils thinned with spirits. I prefer working in oils as the colors are simply alot more vibrant and rich in my opinion. I'm planning on trying stains on my HMS Victory build, using yellow ochre over a limed wood and japanese black over natural wood. Just waiting for my kit to arrive so it will be a while before I reach the painting / staining stage
  14. Thanks EJ You know another ship I'd like to build is the HMS Unicorn from TinTin... The HMS Unicorn by Corel looks nothing like this... it only has 1 row of cannons and a smaller hull. If I purchased the HMS Unicorn by Corel, I think I'd use the bulkheads off the HMS Victory to modify the hull and add to the build for the cabins at the bow of the ship. I like Tintin, and I would probably display the ship with Tintin imagery.

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