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Need advise guys....
So: Tapering the Garboard plank its made on the plankside facing the keel... the other side stays a straight line. All the other planks are tapered on the oposite side. That is , the planks are tapered on the side facing the wale.

 

And ofcourse at the end, the last plank which closes the endgap, is between two straight sides (garboard and last planank facing the wale),  it can be a spilled plank, tapered on both side. Is that correct? Do I get the planking process correct so? Are there also other proceses?

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Model Expo used to sell that book, Cristos.   I've also seen it on Amazon.

 

Or go to the top of this planking forum and look at the pinned topics on planking.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/

 

There's also a tutorial here:  http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

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19 hours ago, MESSIS said:

Need advise guys....
So: Tapering the Garboard plank its made on the plankside facing the keel... the other side stays a straight line. All the other planks are tapered on the oposite side. That is , the planks are tapered on the side facing the wale.

 

And ofcourse at the end, the last plank which closes the endgap, is between two straight sides (garboard and last planank facing the wale),  it can be a spilled plank, tapered on both side. Is that correct? Do I get the planking process correct so? Are there also other proceses?

Christos,

 

Don't worry - it's not as complicated as it sounds.

 

Once you have tapered a plank, I doubt whether you will be able to tell which edge is which.  That's particularly true once the plank has been softened (by whatever means) for bending, because when you fit it in place it will also deform up and down to fit to the adjoining plank.  As long as you have marked the frames to ensure a true line along the planking, all you need to do is ensure that each plank follows the line.

John

 

Past Builds:
Diorama, Washington & Philadelphia - 1776.  1:144 scale scratch build

Sir Edward Hawke - Schooner, 1776.  1:72 scale scratch build from H Hahn plans

Matthew - 1497.  1:25 scale scratch build from Colin Mudie plans

Mediterranean Cog - 1343.  1:40 scale scratch build from Xavier Pastor plans

Nonsuch - 1650.  1:32 scale Aeropiccola kit

Caustic - gunboat, 1776 . 1:36 scale scratch build

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Christos,

 

Yes.  

 

Measure around the midships frame or bulkhead from keel to wale on one side.  This will tell you how many strakes of planking you will need.  For example, suppose the measurement is 156mm and you are using 7mm planks, you will need 23 strakes.  For each bulkhead, cut a strip of paper equal to the distance from keel to wale, mark 23 divisions along it and then transfer these marks to the bulkhead. 

 

The easy way to do this division process is to draw two vertical lines on a sheet of paper, each easily divisible by the number you have just calculated (in this case 23), one longer than the maximum length around the bulkhead and one shorter than the distance around the shortest bulkhead.  In the example I have given, you might choose 184mm and 92mm.  Divide each one, and join the marks:

 

spacing.jpg.25e5dffddcf2207eded26c341b947eed.jpg

 

Now you can take any of your strips of paper, lay it on the diagram so that the ends lie on the top and bottom lines, and mark off the 23 divisions.

 

Once you have marked the bulkheads, you will be able to see the line to follow for each strake.

You may find that, as you reach the ends of the hull, the strakes become too wide or too narrow – in which case you will need to think about stealers or drop planks, but that’s a matter for a separate discussion.  You should read the primers on planking elsewhere on this forum, e.g. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Plank_Bending.pdf

John

 

Past Builds:
Diorama, Washington & Philadelphia - 1776.  1:144 scale scratch build

Sir Edward Hawke - Schooner, 1776.  1:72 scale scratch build from H Hahn plans

Matthew - 1497.  1:25 scale scratch build from Colin Mudie plans

Mediterranean Cog - 1343.  1:40 scale scratch build from Xavier Pastor plans

Nonsuch - 1650.  1:32 scale Aeropiccola kit

Caustic - gunboat, 1776 . 1:36 scale scratch build

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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When you lay the garboard be sure to keep an eye on the upper edge - the straight edge. Most people have a tendancy to slide the garboard too far forward. To the point where the bow end wants to start curving upwards. This is too far. What happens is all the subsequent planks above the garboard will pick up that curve, compounding the problem.

 

The trick I use is to lay the garboard against the keel - lower edge in the rabbet - bow end about 2 inches behind the stem. Keeping the garboard in the rabbet, slowly slide it towards the bow watching the leading edge. When you see that upper edge begin to lift up stop sliding, backoff a bit and try again. You want to stop sliding right before the point where the edge begins to lift.

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

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3 hours ago, mikiek said:

When you lay the garboard be sure to keep an eye on the upper edge - the straight edge. Most people have a tendancy to slide the garboard too far forward. To the point where the bow end wants to start curving upwards. This is too far. What happens is all the subsequent planks above the garboard will pick up that curve, compounding the problem.

 

The trick I use is to lay the garboard against the keel - lower edge in the rabbet - bow end about 2 inches behind the stem. Keeping the garboard in the rabbet, slowly slide it towards the bow watching the leading edge. When you see that upper edge begin to lift up stop sliding, backoff a bit and try again. You want to stop sliding right before the point where the edge begins to lift.

Thank you mikiek.... I think I got it

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Just to stir things up - here is a whole different take on planking

 

See post #32. It takes care of correctly shaping the planks for you.

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

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