Hermione by MESSIS - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1/89

[MESSIS]

Κώστα ευχαριστώ. Συμπάθα τα αγγλικά μου, αλλά δεν υπάρχει γερμανικό blog.

Βέβαια να βρεθούμε.

[MESSIS]

H

[Lucius Molchany]

Man it is all Greek to me!

[MESSIS]

Shipyard remain open through Eastern holidays but mostly didnt turn up for work! 

 

Anyway planking went on, from gunports down to the hull. Crushial point was the turning from side planking (gunports planking) to the planking under the hull (bottom hull planking).It went smoothly!

The key was to keep distances within tollerances of +/- 1mm diviation from the initial plank.

 

Problems appeared on the end of the planks at the bow where the planking ends leaving a gap to fit the sternpost and on the few last planks on the stern (just before the turn to the bottom planking), where planks had  to be pointed at their end in order  to make the planking's turn to the bottom  (under) hull.  

 

Though a lot of planks need almost 90 degrees curves,the bending was easy... soaking planks from last night. 

 

So it seems the Artesania Latina planking instructions are well studied by the designers of the kit and very good  presented in the pictures of the dvd. 

 

 

 

 

[MESSIS]

Getting old is nature. I havent noticed that my pictures  are not sharp...

Sorry guys am coming up tommorow with a few sharp pic. I think its good to see the planks one by one and the turn from upper plank to underplank, which I commented proudly above.

 

Sorry again

[Lucius Molchany]

Now you are having fun.Planking the hull is one of the best parts of the build process.

[MESSIS]

[MESSIS]

Planking proceeds without major problems. It doesnt look a lot of work but believe me it realy
was, due to the complicated (twisting and curving) bendings.

 

 

[MESSIS]

And a better one. It shows  the space between the planks at the stern ,where the 4 stealers are going to be fitted . The end (max) distances for the stealers are 4mm, 3mm and once more 3mm . And there is another one to come after installing the next plank with max distance 4mm again.

[Lucius Molchany]

Why did you not use the provided nails to attach the planks to the bulkheads? When I did mine,I used a microdrill to drill the plank abd pushed the nails in with needle nose pliers.Worked well but you do have to put some diected force to get them in.

[MESSIS]

I did... though there were no nails in the kit (I had nails). But thats not yhe issue.... I want to work the way the ship was builded then... 

 

Philo thx for your interest and comments. It seems that in this blog we are very longly.... ok I know we are not the best modellers around here but I thought thats not the issue. Its all about beeing happy with modelling.... but its not am afraid.

[Lucius Molchany]

Yes it is all about the fun and chllenge of a wood ship kit.I like the finished product too! 

[Dilbert55]

There were only a few nails provided in the kit and they were not called for in the detail instructions. Given the instructions call for painting the hull suspect this was intentional. I'm in accord with Messis, would not have used nails on this kit if they were provided. 

[Lucius Molchany]

My kit came with a ton of nails and they were very effective in attaching the planks to the bulkheads although I did use some glue here and there.Worked out well for me!

[Dilbert55]

Hi Philo, If your Kit was from Artesania Latina and included the nails then it may not have been from before the latest upgraded version of their kit? Did your kit come with this DVD?

[Lucius Molchany]

No DVD came with mine but I bought my kit a few years ago.You must have the newest version of the kit.

[Lucius Molchany]

[Dilbert55]

Note: I prefer the old finishing scheme (yours) more than the current kit (matches the real re-build ship). Find it difficult to put paint over wood, whether it be on ships or whatever.

 

Apologies to Messis for using his build log for this chatter.  

 

 

[Lucius Molchany]

The reason I went for the white,black,buff and yellow paint scheme was because I used most of the mahogany planks to complete tye Ersatzia and The Admiral Vernon. So I substituted basswood with most satisfactory results I must say!

[deckape]

21 hours ago, Dilbert55 said:

Note: I prefer the old finishing scheme (yours) more than the current kit (matches the real re-build ship). Find it difficult to put paint over wood, whether it be on ships or whatever.

 

Apologies to Messis for using his build log for this chatter.  

 

 

Yep I have the same kit I got mine two weeks ago it came with the dvd I never constructed a ship model in my like with a dvd its going to be hard to take measurements off a dvd but they give you the dimentions on the dvd all metric like everything else nowdays no complaints a matter of taste from this company. Hardy well done tghus far in the contruction build on my friend your doing exceptionally well

Frankie Day

[MESSIS]

Dilbert55

 

no prlm using the log.... its anyway about the build of Hermione you are talking about. So you are always wellcome.

 

Now about painting the wood. Yes you are right I also agree with you "find it diffiticult  putting paint over wood". But... thinking over it I spoke with one of the kits disigners in Artesania Latina and he told me that the paint of the replica in Rochefort is according to the documentation of the original ship back in 1789 which is still to be found in the museum. Its a fact that the original ship was indeed painted. So..... I had to make my decision what it was going to be and I choose to go for the original look of the ship, which yes  it was  painted.

 

As to identfy the original colours:

As the designer said the kit instructions are to paint the ship in its original colors (replica is painted as original ship). There for in the kit its a list included, of the colours that the replica's designers used in order to paint the replica in the original colours. This list designates the "pantone"colour system, but as to help me, the designer send to me a list of  vallego model paints that corespond to the colors of the pantone colour system. I gave that list to philo426 and you can find it posted on its log

Christos

[Dilbert55]

Thanks Messis.

 

Not sure why Artesania chose to deviate from the historical color scheme on their previous Hermoine kit version that is shown on Philo426's kit box (post #47) as a largely unpainted hull. I prefer that scheme only as a personal aesthetic preference. It was great work that you were able to get the details on the real original colors, hope you can find them in real paints that can be air brushed. The red paint I found locally that was the closest match for the gunport moldings and bow deck planks looked too much like lipstick (to me) when applied so I went with a softer color. Not sure I like what I chose now that I see it in pictures. Have not made a decision yet on upper hull lines, though I like the blue. 

 

For me so far in my short modeling career I'm not attempting to do full reproductions as my skill level is not there yet. 

 

[MESSIS]

Dilbert55

 

Concerning colours: There is also  the "scale effect",  that considers the distance seen a colour. And thats obvious different in scale model than in reality. The colours must be pale on the models so you got to mix them with some white or water.... etc etc. Here is a link about this if you are interested in:

 

https://www.cybermodeler.com/color/scale_effect.shtml

 

So if you have the correct colour is not enough. You need to expiriment a little till you find the scale effect, by mixing around.

If you like I can email you the corresponding nr of the vallejo paints.

 

Christos

 

Ps. Your picture: Nice build there.... and nice dark wood! I wouldnt paint such a nice wood hull .... ever. As you saw my model has a plain almost white wood. Very good quality but it doesnt worth even considering  letting it unpainted.

 

 

[Dilbert55]

I used to have to deal with color matching in my business before I retired but was not expecting it in scale modeling. :-) My hull was also white to begin with. What you see now comes from 5 coats of walnut stain which I'm currently overlaying with satin poly.

 

Bob

[MESSIS]

Well done Bob. You made a very good staining. I hope its not my eyes me getting old.... hi hi. 

 

Christos

[MESSIS]

So here is where I am. There is now time for the two planked areas to meet and close the hull. I got my measurements and I got some difficulty to decide how I proceed. If  I use the dropplank method I get a very wide dropplank (15mm=3 planks width). If I go for the tapperplank method then I get some very thin planks... 1.6 mm at the bow and 2.2 mm further in, when plank width is 5mm! I almost have nowhere the full  5 mm plank/strake width.

 

So I figure I make a combination... dont know if I am doing well or if thats going to come out very bad.

Am open to any opinions and suggestions guys...   please.

 

Here are my calculations

 

 

[MESSIS]

 

[Dilbert55]

Perhaps you should proceed based on your best calculated scenario and see if it is tracking to plan after planking 3-4 lines on each side of the ship?

Must admit I followed Artesania's DVD instructions that included planks that come to a sharp point (ex: page 02-11). Only watched Chuck's planking video after finishing the planking so didn't try to avoid sharp ends. As I'm not attempting to be fully representative I'm not upset with my results, though I will attempt to calculate on my next build. 

 

 

[MESSIS]

Thx Bob,

 

Yes I shall do what you said. It seems am going to get away with the sharp points planks. As you saw my calculations it seems am going to have not less than just 2+ mm as  the minimum  thinest planks and that only on some planks at the stem it self.

 

Have you seen my post to you on philos log about:

 

the replica and the original Hermione dillema?

and what about your buildlog?

[Dilbert55]

Will go take a look a Philos log now, have been preparing for a vacation to the Caribbean on the weekend so have not had the time to start my log yet, will try to do it before I leave.