Oostends schipje by G.L. - scale 1:20 - Ostend shrimper - first POF - Edition 2

[G.L.]

8.9

I cut the slots for the frames in the bars and check if they fit into the frames.

[G.L.]

8.10

Each deck beam shelf is made in to pieces with a lap joint in the middle.

[G.L.]

8.11

Both deck beam shelves, glued in place.

[G.L.]

8.12

Below the deck beam shelf, There is a thinner lower deck beam shelf.

 

Edited December 23, 2017 by G.L.
wrong picture

[G.L.]

8.13

Now I start to lay the lower deck. I use pine for the deck planks. I start with the midship plank. To obtain a straight line, I lay the first layer along a lath. I put a weight (small tin can filled with lead) on the glued planks to put some pressure on while drying.

[G.L.]

8.14

Lower deck laid. As you can see, I leave a considerable part of the port side uncovered.

[G.L.]

8.15

Starboard and port deck beam shelf are connected in the bow  with a wooden deck hook.

[G.L.]

8.16

Just as so many times this episode ends with putting some hundreds of tree nails in the deck beam shelves and the lower deck.

[G.L.]

8.17

Now the beam shelves and the lower beams are laid, I make the deck beams. There are 20 deck beams. I make paper templates of them, glue them on 6 mm thick planks and saw them with the hand fret saw. Afterwards I sand them with the band sander

[G.L.]

8.18

All the deck beams, lined up on the plan.

[G.L.]

8.19

Once the deck beams will be fitted in the model, it is important that their upper side is at the correct height. In this case that means one deck plank width below the top of the wale. I check the height with a small plank of 3 mm thickness (thickness of the deck) and mark the size of the notches to be sawn in the deck beams.

[G.L.]

8.20

On the real ship the beams were fitted with hidden dove tales, but making those is beyond my skills. I will ignore them, they are hidden anyway so it will not be conspicuous.

[G.L.]

8.21

All the deck beams are made and laid in position. They are not glued yet because I want to divide the hull into compartments first and some of the beams must be shortened to make place for the hatch openings.

[G.L.]

Part 9: Compartments below deck

9.1

Making the compartments:      
The hull is divided in three main compartments. A crew shelter in the front, in the middle a fish hold and sail/rope/net shed and aft a shrimp cooking store. The bulkheads between the compartments are made from pine planks and do not allways rest against a beam at the top. On the deck and the side face I glue small support slats. A wooden template with the deck beam curve on top indicates the height of the bulk head planks and props them while I glue them. The first plank is erected with the help of a triangle.

[G.L.]

9.2

When all the planks are raised, I glue the support slats to the other side.

[G.L.]

9.3

In the crew shelter were some bunks and a stove (see part 8 post 8.4). When I measure the space in the model, it is all very tiny, much more than the sketch in part 8/post 8.4 suggests. The headroom is only 120 cm. So there is no space for two bunks in line. I decide to make one bunk and a provisions locker.

[G.L.]

9.4

I make a paper template to determine de shape of the bunk bottom planks.

[G.L.]

9.5

The assembly of bunk and provisions locker.

[G.L.]

9.6

The crew shelter is accessible via stairs.

Sawing of the stringers.

I see that I didn't make any more photos of the making process. Therefore I a add a picture of the end result. A bit difficult from between the frames.

[G.L.]

9.7

To design the ship stove I used some photos from the internet.

[G.L.]

9.8

As metalwork is not really my thing, I make the stove with  a mixture of materials. I make the body of wood with the help of the lathe (drill converted into lathe).

[G.L.]

9.9

The 90 degrees bent stove pipe is made of a nail/bolt.

[G.L.]

9.10

The lids are of cardboard, the hinges of small pieces of brass and the ring at the top side of a piece of copper wire

[G.L.]

9.11

The stove, after it has been painted black and placed in position in the crew shelter.

[G.L.]

9.12

The fish hold is separated from the sail shed by a low partition. In the sail shed the stringers for the fishing winch are not yet in place.

[G.L.]

9.13

Now the bulkheads are in place, the deck beams can be glued into position. Before doing that, I coat the inside of hull with a blend of 2/3 linseed oil and 1/3 turpentine. With the deck beams in place the inside of the hull won't be accessible any more

[G.L.]

9.14

While placing the deck beams, I make the grooves for the carlings which will connect the beams on the edge of the waterway.

[G.L.]

9.15

Some of the deck beams have to be sawn trough for the gaps of the hatches.

[John Allen]

5 minutes ago, G.L. said:

I make the stove with  a mixture of materials

G.L.

 

Your build is taking shape and looking very good. Really enjoyed the way you approached constructing the stove very nice.

[G.L.]

10: Finishing the jib boom support

10.1

In part 7, post 7.1 I made the stringers of the jib boom support. Now it is time to finish it. Once the deck is laid it can't been removed any more. I start with cutting the slots for the block on which the bowsprit will rest. The block is sawn from a small piece of oak and the round groove for the bowsprit was filed in it with a round file.