Dan03 Posted March 1, 2019 Share #1 Posted March 1, 2019 Starting my very first model build. Like most newbies, I am sure that I started with a build that is well above my abilities. I am OCD and tend to get lost in the details, but I usually can work my way through anything I put my mind to. That being said, I have started and managed to get the framework completed (with a few errors) and layed down my decking. The kit as supplied seems to be decent quality although I did have a few warped frames and some delamination issues on the base for the decking. At the moment my plans for this build are to go with the weathered rustic look rather than the shiny new look. When decking, I chose to darken the seams by running a pencil along each board, but obviously it didn't really show all that well. My rookie mistake is the sizing and joint spacing are all over the map. Next build, I will plan the seams better I chose a medium walnut stain and the nail marks were just a sharpie. Once I shellac and seal the deck I will tackle the dreaded planking. I have looked at a few other builds and seen some awesome tips and tricks ccoyle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan03 Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share #2 Posted March 6, 2019 Build is slowly progressing. I have been studying numerous other build logs and identified what I would say are mistakes that I've made so far, but others may say that only my approach is "different". I have planked the first 5 strakes working downwards. I then attached the Gar planks and am now struggling with the calculations to taper each strake "perfectly". Which now brings me to my lastest issue. What is the best method for tapering? Since this is my first build, I don't have access to all of the fancy tool options that some have. I tried using an old woodworking vise and gently "whittling" away the excess wood, but even with my best efforts, I found the results were jagged. I have also tried filing, but takes far too long. Any suggestions? I do have an old dremel on standby. Even just marking a 7mm wide plank to be tapered to 5.8 mm is difficult. I need to find a better way to measure and get a really fine tip pencil as well 🙁 GrandpaPhil and Sea Hoss 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Hoss Posted March 6, 2019 Share #3 Posted March 6, 2019 Great start... Dan03 1 Quote Current: Emma C. Berry Lobster Smack-Model Shipways-1:32-1866 Back on the shelf: USS Essex- MS- "Old Yellow Box" Solid Hull Wall Hanger (Half Hull) Completed: 18th Century Armed Longboat-MS 1/24 USN Picket Boat-MS 1864 1/24 US Brig Syren by Sea Hoss- Model Shipways-1803 18th Century Carronade/Ship Section Mayflower-Pilgrims Pride by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways-1620 18th Century Long Boat by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways USS Constitution by Sea Hoss-Revel-Plastic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Posted March 6, 2019 Share #4 Posted March 6, 2019 (edited) I really like the weathered look of your deck.. Regards, tapering. There are those who will decry the use of something like an Xacto blade or scalpel, because of a tendency for the blade to follow the grain, making precise cutting, where you want it, difficult. However I have found with patience and careful prep, it can be very effective, particularly for straight lines. Cutting curves become a whole new problem. In the short video below, I show how I marked a strip, and tapered it a few inches, from 10mm to about 8 with an Xacto. You have to make sure the straight edge and strip are held very firmly, and make the cut with several shallow cuts. Taper.mp4 Here is an excellent log of this ship, showing some planking technique. HMS Bounty by Steve Edited March 6, 2019 by Gregory Dan03 1 Quote Luck is just another word for good preparation. —MICHAEL ROSE Current builds: Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan03 Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share #5 Posted March 6, 2019 2 hours ago, Gregory said: I really like the weathered look of your deck.. Regards, tapering. There are those who will decry the use of something like an Xacto blade or scalpel, because of a tendency for the blade to follow the grain, making precise cutting, where you want it, difficult. However I have found with patience and careful prep, it can be very effective, particularly for straight lines. Cutting curves become a whole new problem. In the short video below, I show how I marked a strip, and tapered it a few inches, from 10mm to about 8 with an Xacto. You have to make sure the straight edge and strip are held very firmly, and make the cut with several shallow cuts. Taper.mp4 6.6 MB · 0 downloads Here is an excellent log of this ship, showing some planking technique. HMS Bounty by Steve Thanks for the tutorial. For whatever reason, I never thought of using a steel ruler and an exacto knife. It certainly looks easier than my method which involved some freehand. I've been studying Steve12345 build religiously. He had the exact kit I have and the same shortfalls and lack of instructions which explain why I installed the bulwarks before completing the planking as Steve had done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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