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HMS Victory by Kevin-the-lubber - Heller - 1:100 - PLASTIC - with 3D printed additions


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On 12/12/2021 at 12:07 AM, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Meanwhile, a couple of pics of todays 'R&D' between weekend jobs. Staggered lap joints to simulate joining hull sections; glued together with CA and a little light sanding to blend the joints. Once painted the lines would be quite faint and of course wood graining is optional (probably skip that, not least because it would be unbelievably tedious to do in the software). If the section joints were strategically placed to make use of gunport edges and more randomly staggered, I think you would need to know they were there to spot them.   

 

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Very nice trials, thank you for showing.
In the pictures can be seen a strong warping. I encountered this also occasionally. Still trying to get the reasons.

 

One can be as for the minimal shrinking while curing either as for different amount of material on each side or more curing on one side than the other.

 

Do you remember if these parts were cured equally on both sides? Were they printed vertically or lying flat?

 

From experience I know that this can be mended with some warm water, it softens up the material and one can cool it down in the wanted form. How extreme this even workes is here with some ballusters from my samples that can really be twisted into a screw like form 🙂

VictoryPilaster210413_7291.thumb.jpg.c4a2d5772ad027d94e55f6ec377603bd.jpg

This means never bent a cold resin part (either print or "classic" cast) but always have a cup of hot tea first and warm it up in there   🙂

Victory130202_5180.thumb.jpg.63b853496d20fcc08f645da0d61c9499.jpg

- normal hot water also works 😉

 

XXXDAn

Edited by dafi

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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Daniel, assuming you're talking about the 'hull planking tests', that isn't warping, they were meant to be curved. I don't remember why I chose a concave rather than convex curve, probably for no reason at all as, at that stage, I just wanted to see if I could make a disguised joint.

 

However I have PLENTY of experience of parts distorting as you mention. The stern base plate was very bad for this. I think it's probably because of more material on one side than another i.e. differences in surface area. I've found this doesn't matter if you glue parts together fairly soon after printing, however it's something I'll look at again when I resume work on the stern. When I was working on it previously I had all but abandoned filament printing but over the last couple of years have been learned that you can solve many problems by combining these technologies.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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4th Feb 2024

And so we resume...

 

First batch of cannons, the 24lb and 32lb, more or less complete. I resin printed replacements for both the cannons and the carriages as this was easier than modifying the kit parts, based on the drawings in McKay. So, added cyphers, cap squares and breeching rings to the cannons. For the carriages I made these with just the trucks (wheels) separate. It wasn't such a good method and I'll try something different for the 12lb-ers. The brass pin in the bottom of the front bracket is, obviously I suppose, to fix the carriage on the deck so they can't get knocked out of place once the deck is closed off. The mottled and rough finish is intentional. As these carriages will be hardly visible I experimented with spraying a peat brown artists ink to give some shading and weathering, as doing it with a brush is very tedious x 80. That very mottled one on the left is unrepresentative, the assembled one is more typical. I also took a shortcut for painting the axle hubs black - I smeared undiluted black acrylic on a palette and drew the axle tips through this. From a distance the result looks okay, but here again I will try something different for the 12lb-ers, as they will be on show. I don't think I'll be rigging any of these, as they're hidden.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.4776c2067979bc14f89e5fc258ece78c.jpeg

 

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Kevin, I’m new to MSW and just launched my own build log for the Heller Victory yesterday. Like others in this forum, I originally bought my kit in the early 80s. Hull is mostly completed but now re-working a few areas with appropriate ‘bashing’ techniques. Just starting to scratch the surface re:rigging. I’m mind boggled by your digital printing skills and will watch your progress with great interest.

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Many thanks gents. I have three small Victory "sub-projects" on the go right now; home made decals for the trophy of arms, lanterns, and the smaller cannons. The cannons are pesky creatures, there are very minor differences between the long, medium and short 12lb guns but I figure I better do it true to the figures as these are 'show guns' or I'll just kick myself later on for being lazy. Decals..... not quite there yet, still learning how to make and apply them. They are similar to kit decals but less forgiving in some ways, more so in others. Once I'm 'there' I'll do a little write up. The lanterns really are fun. The offset octagons make for an interesting little CAD exercise and, blessings, I can simply scale down the big one to get the other two sizes.

 

image.png.198727371963c0bff8a184bfe10723ca.png

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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