Spray by Ken_2 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters – 3/8” = 1’ or 1:35

[Ken_2]

I enjoyed reading the Aubrey–Maturin book series by Patrick O’Brian so much so, I got the idea to build a model boat of the H.M.S. Surprise.  Luckily for me, I decided to build a simple boat first.  I selected the Titanic Lifeboat by Artesanía Latina as my first and easy boat.  This was not easy!  My eyes were opened to the skills required to build model boats.  I enjoyed the building process so much, that I have built 2 additional boats.  My skill level is getting better, but I am still no-where ready to build the H.M.S. Surprise, if I ever will be ready.  I am getting better at planking, but I need much more experience with rigging and many other technical aspects (painting, rope work, cutting my own wood, etc.).

I have sailed on and off for more than 20 years.  I enjoy several hobbies such as hiking and photography.  So I combined my model boat building with video editing and have hosted 4 model boat building videos on YouTube (https://youtube.com/channel/UCp0E-BCe0yOltd3V0d94eXQ). 

Thanks to those who commented on my YouTube videos, I found how valuable forums and build logs are.  I have recently joined Model Ship World to make my first Build Log with my upcoming 4^th boat, the Spray.  I had bought the model of the Spray some time ago and decided now is the time to build it.  When I searched the build logs, I found there were other's who were building this same boat.  Excellent!  I reviewed each of their build logs carefully.  I then opened my box and read all the instructions multiple times.  This time, the instructions seem far more clear, thanks to the help of these existing build logs.  Thanks guys.  Now I can focus on my craftsmanship, and not spend hours wondering what the cryptic instructions mean.

I made a keel clamp based upon examples of others.  This special clamp will hold the deck at the correct position relative to the waterline.  The keel is higher in the bow than the stern, so to keep the frames perpendicular to the water line, one must assemble the frames with a 5 degree tilt. 

 

 

Next, I dry fit the frames to the keel.  Some of the frames have a loose fit when they are placed on the keel and easily fall over.  So there are several methods to stabilize this dry fit.  I liked the Lego approach.

 

 

 

 

 

Next, I shaped and smoothed the frames, ensured the stringer fit in the groove, and cut the stringer to length.  Once the dry fit looked good, I removed all the parts from the clamp and starting gluing one frame at a time.  I added a little extra support where each frame joined the keel.

 

 

I was concerned that bending the stringer to the curve of the deck would add a strain on the frames.  So I soaked the stringer and went to clamp it in place overnight to give it a bend before gluing.  The stringer became swollen and would not fit in the slots.  So I clamped it above the slots, where indeed it took a slight bend.  After drying, the stringer fit.  I have not yet added the transom as it is not clear to me how things should fit.  I will deal with this when I need to during framing.

 

 

I took a thin plank from another boat and fit it on the frames.  This informed me how to shape the frames.  I hand sanded the edges to make a good bond between the frame and the plank.  Power tools make work easier, but power tools can easily cause damage to these delicate pieces.  And, also, Bass wood is soft.  Hand sanding did not take long.

 

 

 

My next steps will be to add the planks

[Ken_2]

I am typically slow due to other activities, but this year we are watching 2 young grandchildren full time, which even slows the build process more.

I added a beveled pad in the bow as an additional bonding surface.  I beveled the edge of the first plank to mate with the bow keel.  I then soaked the plank in warm water.  I laid the softened plank up near the frames and “dry fit” the wet wood to ensure all was as planned - and it was, the 2^nd time.  I then added CA glue to the first 3 joints, pressed the 1^st plank in place.  I used clips at the stern to get the plank near the final location.  While I held the plank’s first 3 joins with one hand, I sprayed an accelerator which set these bonds.  I continued to glue a few frames to the plank at a time, while keeping the end of the plank near the stern.  Once it was looking good, I sprayed accelerator to set it and moved on to glue the next few frames until complete.  The wet wood was supple and took the desired shape.  I added rubber bands to hold the bonded wood in place for several hours until a full cure took place.  I repeated this on the other side as well.

[Ken_2]

I thought I would taper some of the initial planks to see if I could eliminate drop planks.  That is, the same number of planks at the beam as at the bow.  I’m thinking I will need to add stealers in the stern.

I measured each frame and noted the distance.  Counted how many planks were required at the longest distance, the four middle frames.  I then calculated how best to taper the planks.  The top plank was not tapered, and the garboard plank does not go to the front.

[Ken_2]

I tapered the 2^nd plank on each side, and shaped them to fit the bow. And glued them in.  They are off by a mm or so. But I don’t think I will redo this.

[Ken_2]

Next, I worked on the garboard plank.  Shaping and locating the garboard plank has always required multiple tries for me.  Eventually I found one I like and glued it in.  Nope – I didn’t like it.  So - I used denatured alcohol and took it out and improved the next version.  (I hope I don’t run out of planks!)  Part of the time, I was placing the curved side next to the keel, but pushing the front of the plank flat against the keel was just impossible in that short distance.  I then placed the flat side next to the keep and it fit better.

Now I need to push the next plank next to the Garboard.  This causes a twist in the 2^nd plank.  There seems no way to lay these two planks without a “bowing out” (a twist)

[Ken_2]

The cure to this twist or bow is of course to sand and fill.  Maybe this is the intent.  But when I look at the all the tutorials on MSW, YouTube, and the books I have bought, and sanding and filling are not really emphasized.  And when I look at museum quality boats, they don’t seem to be sanded nor filled at all. (and for that matter, there are no stealers near the bow).

A promising technique I found and used with success is to “spile” the wood.  That is cut a new piece with a curve “designed in”.  I’m not saying this is the best way to plank this boat.  I’m just trying out different techniques to get experience and to improve my craftsmanship.  I started by cutting a piece paper to the curved shape I wanted.

I then transferred this shape to a sheet of Basswood.  Notice the new piece is cut with a curve.  This removes the need to bend the wood so much.

I used my Dremel tools, and sandpaper to get a shape that is close to the desired shape

[Ken_2]

[Ken_2]

Four Planks have been installed on each side.  Now I need to see if I can taper the planks such that all can fit from the bow to the stern without stealers.  But before I go further, I need to understand how these planks terminate at the stern.  And now that I have researched the stern, I see I need to understand the rudder and rudder post.

As to the spiling the plank.  It was a good exercise.  There was definitely less twist and the plank laid flatter.  But I still need to sand and fill some, so I am not sure the effort will result in a better result.

Edited November 13, 2020 by Ken_2

[Ken_2]

I’ve decided not to spile any remaining planks for this boat.  I found that fitting the wet wood into the desired curved shape and then pressing down where the wood bows, all while the glue is drying is adequate – and faster.  I will continue to spile a plank or two on future boats to gain proficiency, but not here.

 

As I add planks, it still looks like I can taper those in the front to keep all planks running fore and aft, except for one wedge in the back by the rudder.

 

I got careless when shortening the planks hanging over the stern and cut one too short and I scored the aft section.  Further, when filling a hole in the tapered transom for the rudder post, I broke off a small piece.  Doh!  I think these can be fixed 😊, but I would have preferred not to be so careless. 

Edited November 18, 2020 by Ken_2

[MrBlueJacket]

I've said this before:

 

"Putty and paint-

Makes it look like what it ain't"

[Tomculb]

Nic puts it so well.  Filler, sanding and paint do wonders; they certainly conceal a lob of unsightly gaffs in my Spray build.  When I look at the logs of people building hulls that will remain natural and unpainted, I'm just in awe of what they are able to do.  Keep up the good work.

[Ken_2]

It looks like I will be able to narrow the planks such that I can fit all planks from bow to stern.  Except for one wedge.  I trimmed some paper to outline the gap, and made two wedges.

[Ken_2]

These last 4 planks have been challenging.  I found that bending the next plank resulted in too much twisting.  Maybe stealers in between the middle planks would have been easier or the correct method.  Anyway, I am committed to learning about planking via no stealers.  So, it seems I am back to spiling the last 4 planks.  

I cut some cardboard to fill the gap and transferred it to my sheet of basswood and cut out a plank at a time.  I measured the gap, divided the distance in half, and marked the first plank with the desired width.  After some smoothing, shaping, etc. I glued the plank in place.  I followed a similar process for the remaining planks. There is lots of room for process improvement, but overall, its better than I have done before.  I am thinking better tools would remove some of the undesired variations (gaps, etc).  Maybe if I use shorter sections, simulating real planking, it will look better.  I will continue to look for the theory and principles of planking. 

[Ken_2]

Next I will sand, fill and sand some more

[MrBlueJacket]

Nice job spiling. Are you aware that the NRG offers a "half hull" planking kit and instructions? You can see it here:

 

https://thenrgstore.org/collections/plans-and-projects/products/half-hull-planking-project

[Ken_2]

Thanks MrBlueJacket (Nic?)

I plan to buy the "half Hull" planking kit as it looks very interesting.

Also I have a question at the end of this next upload.  Do I make the knightheads or did I misplace them?

[Ken_2]

Not much progress on the boat this last week.  I’ve had more important things to do.  Its hard to believe that anything can take precedence over model boat building, (ha ha) but grandkids, preparation for Christmas, and the wife’s minor surgical procedure seem to trump my hobby!  I did manage to sand the bottom.

[Ken_2]

Next I started the stanchion and subdeck assembly.  I am going to try and follow the instructions and cut square holes in the subdeck, glue it on and place the stanchions later.  The subdeck seems to fit very nice.

I traced and cut a new sub-deck so I could practice cutting these stanchion holes.  I cut the holes as close to the bulkhead as I could.  I cut the holes small, so I could enlarge them to be close to the bulkhead and side as possible.

[Ken_2]

Now I will use this practice sub-deck as a template to mark small holes in the real sub-deck.

Below is the sub-deck glued to the boat.

[Ken_2]

The next steps are to install the top deck, the paint the margin boards, cut and install the bow sprint and knightheads, and install the stanchions.  As I ponder all of this and work out the sequence, I notice very little is said about the knightheads!   In real life were these 4x12’s?  

While I am waiting to go out and get some medium dark stain, and wood sealer for the bottom planks, I chose to place the wood filler in the bottom, and sand the planks as smooth as I can.  I may sand and fill one more time, but each of the last times I sanded with 800, it did not seem to get much better.  As soon as my sealer comes, I will seal the bottom and continue.

Edited December 14, 2020 by Ken_2
I deleted my question about knightheads, as Nic was kind enough to help me.

[MrBlueJacket]

13 hours ago, Ken_2 said:

Where are the knightheads!?  The instructions don’t tell me to make them nor do I see a drawing with shapes defined.  I cannot find any knightheads included.  I can make them, but there is not much detail anywhere I can find.  In real life were these 4x12’s?  Did I lose them? 

Any suggestions?

 

 

The knightheads are 1/8 x 3/8 and you make them out of the 1/8 x 4 sheet included in the kit. They are on the profile views as well.

 

Nic

[Ken_2]

Thanks.  I'll create them soon, as I am getting the deck ready.

Ken

[Tomculb]

Ken, your build is coming along very nicely.  A little paint and that hull is going to look really great!

[dsmith65]

Looking good, I think you made the right move in cutting the holes in the sub deck, it will be easier to get your stanchions to line up.  I didn't do that and a couple didn't sit quite right.  Oh well live and learn.

 

[Ken_2]

I used wood filler in a few more uneven spots on the bottom planks and sanded again.  Next, I used a “rattle can” surface primer by Tamiya and sealed the bottom.  I used a classic oak wood stain on the top deck, followed by brushing on a Satin finish polyurethane.  I also revisited the holes for the stanchions and clarified the size and location of the holes on the subdeck.  I marked where the margin planks fit on the subdeck.  Hopefully, I will be able to glue the margin deck on the top and then cut stanchion openings at just the right size. 

I then glued the top deck on the sub deck, marking where the mast hole needs to be drilled.

[Ken_2]

Well, … it did not turnout as well as I hoped.  There were 2 issues.  1) The top deck halves were symmetrical and looked like they fit well, but they did not.  I needed to inspect much closer.  It was difficult to dry fit this all together with millimeter accuracy and I missed some adjustments.  After gluing the top deck on, I found a small gap between the halves mostly showing at the fore and aft sections.  2)  The port side top deck is 1.5 mm closer to the outboard planks than it was supposed to be, leaving little room for the stanchions and no room for the margin planks between the stanchion and top deck.  I think I have overcome these two issues.

 

The last picture shows the gap, but I think this will be rectified by using the recommended top deck putty to accent the gaps between planks.  I’m hoping the putty will fill the unwanted gaps.  In addition, there will be a lot of equipment and cabins on the deck hiding the filler.

 

The 2^nd issue has been more difficult.  I did not get a picture of the tight space created by having the top deck too far outboard.  I hope I have fixed the problem.  I made a quick sketch showing the problem (drawings help me think through these problems).  The left side of the sketch shows there is only about 1 mm of margin plank available between the stanchion and the top deck (very narrow and delicate).  So, when I come to making the holes in the margin plank, I must be careful not to break this very narrow part of the grey plank!  The right side of the sketch shows the original problem in red.  That is, the port side top deck was 1.5 mm too far outboard.  Which meant there was no chance for a small margin plank interior to the stanchion.

 

I could not remove the deck 30 seconds after gluing it.  Wood glue in this case would have been a better choice than CA glue.  So, I tried sanding and filing the decking back.  It was not working.  I then used my Dremel and a sharping stone and carefully etched back the deck.  The 3rd and 4^th pictures show I have hopefully created enough space.  I carefully made several passes at trimming back the deck, as using power tools can create big divots that are hard to fix!  But I did not know what else to do!

 

As I work through this problem of small features, I’m getting the idea this may be hard to paint as well!  The deck will be finished, the margin plank will be painted grey after it is cut, but the stanchions and the upper planks outside of the stanchions are to be white.  I’m thinking I will airbrush the stanchions and planks and be extra careful when laying masking tape in order to keep the margin plank grey and the deck unpainted.

Edited January 1, 2021 by Ken_2
added a picture. I cannot figure out how to change the order (making the 4th picture the 1st)

[Ken_2]

I painted the margin boards and “dry fit” them where they will be placed.  I then adjusted the top deck again by filing.  Once they looked good, I marked a spot on the margin board just forward of the bulkhead.  Before I glued the board down, I drilled a small hole in the margin board to start my x-acto blade cutting.  I then glued the margin board and starting carving a spot for the stanchions.  Once the hole was close to the right size and right place, I filed the hole with a small 3mm square file to complete the hole.  I used a small piece of the stanchion to ensure it fit.
 

[Tomculb]

Looks like you've done a great job overcoming your challenges.  And I like the color of your deck.  Keep up the good work.

[Ken_2]

Now for my next big screwup!  The instruction booklet says to “…rub a light grey window putty or similar material into the score lines of the planking…”.  I was unable to find a grey window putty so I used grey plumbers putty. 

1st, the putty would not come off the planks.  It filled the lines very nice, but seemed to cling to the deck finish.  Some kind of oil that resisted removal.  I was unable to remove the plumber putty off the deck by rubbing.

2nd the web said mineral spirits will remove plumbers putty, which I applied.  This removed some of the putty and lots of the polyurethane leaving the deck looking worse for the wear, and now my deck finish does not look so nice.

I re-applied some polyurethane to see if I could recover the “look”.  But where it was applied it had a shiny finish compared to the original finish.  One good thing is that I did this in one section only and not for the whole deck.

Plumbers putty says do not use on limestone, marble or plastic.  It should also say not use on wooden model boats!

 

After my few attempts to remove it, I contacted Nic from Bluejacket.  His advice was to scrape it off and refinish it.  I did as he recommended, but only on the section that was “tainted”, since I liked the look before the putty.  I really appreciate his availability and willingness to help us “newbees”.  Thanks to Nic, I am ready to move on.  It is a bit dark where I reworked the deck.  But it is what it is.  I’m hoping this will be either under, or hidden by, the deck house, bow sprint, barrels, boats, side planking, etc.

 

Now that I am back on track, I am working on the sequence of assembly.  The instructions state to put the bowsprit on next, followed by the stanchions and upper planks.  I installed a few stanchions first to ensure I can install these as planned.

 

I cut and sanded the bowsprit, but I am thinking it will be easier to paint before it is glued on the deck.  And I have decided to learn how to airbrush, so I bought a system, watched YouTubes, and I’ve been practicing.  I thinned and mixed my paint and went to spray the bowsprit, but the airbrush was plugged with paint.  I guess I did not clean it good enough last time.  So I had to learn how to disassemble the airbrush all the way down to component parts and clean it better.  If its not one thing, its another!  But that is what I like about this hobby.  I am learning all kinds of stuff.  And hopefully, someday I will be experienced with most of it.

 

In addition, Enamel spray and fumes are bad for you, so I had to build a spray booth, as you can see in the picture above.  This is a prototype (cardboard), but it works well.  I used a leftover bilge blower which has a sealed motor and moves 130 cfm.  I did not have a 2.5 amp 12v power supply handy, so I hooked up a battery and switch.  When I paint, I crack open the garage door, turn the exhaust outdoors, turn on the blower, and paint.  I cannot detect a smell like I had before.  My lighting in the booth needs to be improved, but as I get better, I will learn what I need.

 

 

 

Edited January 13, 2021 by Ken_2
I removed duplicate pictures

[MrBlueJacket]

Deck looks good! A coil or two of rope will hide numerous irregularities.

 

Nic