HMS Victory Cross Section by tmj - Corel -1:98

[tmj]

I'll get back to the ballast in due time. For now, I'm going to start moving upward and build the second story of the pump well housing between the Orlop deck and the lower gun deck. Not too difficult. Getting a nice tight fit, with no ugly gaps will the most challenging part of this.

 

[tmj]

My 'Pigs of Iron' ballast material just arrived. "Woo-hoo!" This is 1.5mm 'square' copper wire that has been plated with something shiny. At 1:98 scale, this stuff will represent iron blocks approximately 6" X 6" square. After a lot of soldering and suffering from plenty of heat, I doubt that this stuff will look very pretty once all is said and done. It'll likely look more like ugly crude iron, which is the effect that I am after.

I'll obviously have to remove the shingle ballast that is currently glued into my model, to make room for the 'Pigs of Iron', which was an afterthought, but that's okay. The end result will be well worth the extra effort required. After installing the pigs, I'll re-apply shingles as needed to make things look proper.  

    

Edited September 16, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

This is as far as I can go in completing the Orlop deck's section of pump well housing, until I can either locate a source for proper deck stanchions, or finish making my own stanchions, which will take some time. I need those stanchions to properly 'arc' the lower gun deck and also effectively set the well housing true to its final 'situation' between those two decks. I'll then be able to complete the planking on the well house, trim it out and make it look proper. That's okay. I have plenty of 'other' needful tasks to take care of until I'm ready to finalize the well house.  

 

[tmj]

I've been experimenting with my 'Pigs of Iron' ballast effect. My first attempt in creating these things was a successful 'failure'! I say 'successful' because my failure, in the method I used, taught me just how it must be done. I'll get it right next time. In the meantime, I'm dry fitting false stanchions and ladders atop my Orlop deck, as visual aids, to help me plan ahead. The curvature of my deck is now proper, due to the false stanchions, and I can now finish planking and trimming out my well housing seeing as how I now know exactly where the bottom of the pump well housing will be. After completing the well house, I need to figure out just how I intend to furnish the Orlop deck, build the furniture, then fabricate the 'actual' support stanchions prior to making everything permanent. It's a slow go, but it's 'going'!         

Edited September 25, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

Pump housing for the Orlop deck is now complete, save a bit of touchup and finish work. The housing is glued to the bottom of the lower gun deck. I needed to anchor the pump housing to the bottom of that gun deck in order to provide a fixed point of reference, for obtaining measurements, that would result in the completed pump house fitting tightly atop the Orlop deck once the gun deck was slid into place. Another reason for gluing the pump house to the gun deck is because I also need to be able to remove the gun deck, and the pump housing to give me free, open access to the Orlop deck for the addition of Orlop deck furnishings. I'd much rather be able to locate/set furnishings via looking straight down on them. Much easier to do it that way than to try and sneak things in later, with tweezers, between two decks offering very little space to work within... as well as depth perception issues that would surely affect easy and proper alignment/location of the furnishings.   

 

Here is the lower gun deck and the pump housing slid into place. The second story of my pump housing looks a bit off of center in this photo, but it's not. Just a bad camera angle making it look off. I need to learn to pay attention to such details while taking pictures. 

 

Edited September 25, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

I've decided to support the lower gun deck with this stanchion design. I doubt that it is period correct, but it should be close to what would have been used in 1805. One down, five more to go!

 

[tmj]

Still thinking forward and scratching my head. These are the barrels that will eventually be going into the hold, etc. Not knowing how many I will truly need for this build, I purchased fifty. They are of a proper scale size for 'large' wooden barrels in Victory 1:98 scale. I'd like to find smaller barrels too, but so far this is the smallest that I've been able to find. I might have to turn smaller barrels myself, should I really want smaller barrels scattered around the ship. I'll have to think about that...

  

[tmj]

Lower gun deck stanchions complete and dry fitted in place. I like it. A bit of cleanup with a file and some sandpaper and they will be ready to permanently install.

 

[tmj]

Here's the 'flip' side. Ladders/stairs are not glued. They're just sitting loose in place, just like the stanchions. Please forgive me for anything that doesn't look square and plumb. Everything will be situated properly before I add any glue.

 

Edited September 30, 2023 by tmj

[allanyed]

 Do the kit ladders all have only three steps?   The distance between the orlop deck planks to the top of the lower gun deck planking is about 80".   

Thanks

Allan

[tmj]

23 hours ago, allanyed said:

 Do the kit ladders all have only three steps?   The distance between the orlop deck planks to the top of the lower gun deck planking is about 80".   

Thanks

Allan

No, there are actually 4 steps, which is still a really tall step (around 20" between steps). That's what comes with the kit. I suppose that sailors had longer legs back then than they do today! 😗

There are a 'lot' of problems with this model. When I bought this, I had no real direction. I just wanted to build a ship model that looked good. Historical accuracy was not a part of the plan. That changed and I now have something that will 'never' be correct. I'm now using it as a training aid to hone some skills for my next project. My next project 'WILL' have a more proper, historically accurate direction to follow. My current plan with this kit bash is to simply do the best I can do, with what I have to work with. I want the model to look nice when all is said and done, but I don't want to put too much effort into making corrections. I just want to get 'er done and move on to something with a more promising future. Everyone has to start somewhere. This is my start...    

Edited October 1, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

Support stanchions are complete, save my needing to clean them up a bit. Now, I need to figure out how I want to populate the Orlop deck with furnishings, stuff, etc. This is my first idea, for the first half of the Orlop deck. Three surgeon's tables being used by the crew for mess tables, gambling, whatever. Wooden crates for benches and chairs to sit on. Not sure where to go on the opposite side of the deck just yet. I might even change this design. 

 

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

On 9/30/2023 at 7:26 PM, allanyed said:

 Do the kit ladders all have only three steps?   The distance between the orlop deck planks to the top of the lower gun deck planking is about 80".   

Thanks

Allan

I never thought too much about the scale of those ladders until you mentioned it. They simply 'looked' good, and that's all I was going on, until now. "Now", those ladders are really starting to bug me! I might need to scratch build some new ones with proper scale dimensions and realistic steps... @#$%! This is reason #967 why I really don't want to buy any more pre-manufactured kits. In all honesty, the only thing that I have truly used, as intended, from this kit is the ridged frame that forms the hull shape of this ship model's section, which is probably not accurate either!        

Edited October 2, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

Middle gun deck going in. Learning from my previous mistake of trying to form the arch of my 'lower' gun deck, after it was built, I decided to 'pre-bend' this newest gun deck. It was not only a wise choice but also yielded much more consistent results! What I did was to cut my beams a bit longer than required and boil them in water, for 30 minutes, to totally saturate the wood with heat and moisture. I then pulled my hot/wet beams out of the boiling pot and quickly clamped them all into a sandwich between a radiused stainless-steel form and a flexible metal ruler as a backing. The metal ruler backing, and a few clamps insured that the wood would not try to 'kink' or go flat anywhere along the bend. I then baked this sandwich in the oven, @ 260 degrees for an hour then shut the oven off to let things cool down. Worked much better than using just a hot plank bender and a wooden form. After a few hours of cooling and drying I removed the clamps and was pleasantly surprised with the results. The arch was perfect on the first try! 😁

 

Now, I need to frame in around the mast with addition support beams, forming a square that is the same dimensions of the mast, in the proper X/Y axis locations that I need to keep the mast accurately centered and canted. This additional framing will become my 'drilling-jig' to ensure that I get the mast hole correct on the first try. I'll then complete the planking, over the additional mast hole framing and finally remove the deck from the ship, drill the hole for the mast then put the deck back in. If you look at the mast and its hole on my lower gun deck, you'll see a perfect fit. I did the lower gun deck mast hole the exact same way, as I also did with the mast hole in the Orlop deck. I'll continue to use this same method of locating the mast holes for every deck on this build. It's the only way that I can think of to easily get the mast hole properly located for each deck, one deck at a time, without a lot of guessing, hoping and potential rework. 

 

Nothing above the Orlop deck has been glued in place. The stanchions, ladders, gun decks, mast... all friction fitted and 100% loose!

 

Edited October 8, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

Deck is now framed in around the mast, and everything is perfectly aligned for center and the cant of the mast. I can now finish planking the deck, then drill through the framing/jig and have a perfectly located hole for the mast to go through.

 

 

Edited October 11, 2023 by tmj

[allanyed]

Neatly done!   Keep in mind there were wedges used to anchor the mast in the partners.  For the future, you might find the following interesting.  This one is for the upper deck for a ship smaller than Victory, but the design principals would apply.

Allan

 

 

Edited October 13, 2023 by allanyed

[tmj]

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

Keep in mind there were wedges used to anchor the mast in the partners.  For the future, you might find the following interesting.  This one is for the upper deck for a ship smaller than Victory, but the design principals would apply.

Allan

 

 

 

Interesting indeed and well noted Allan. Thank you! 

[allanyed]

  Sorry, I should have posted the below pics in my previous post.  You can see the ring of wedges in the sketch below.

Allan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[tmj]

 Allan,

I'm looking at your drawing. I'm curious. Would there have been any framing 'below' those wedges to support them and prevent them from falling out when they became loose due the mast constantly crushing against them, in all directions, and compressing them via the force of the wind, etc.? Maybe there would have been some 'lower' support framing, below those wedges, similar to what I have done on my model? I'm just guessing here.

 

How were those 'wedges' kept permanently fixed in their places, and 'always held tight' up against the mast, even after a bit of time at sea and a lot of crushing punishment from the wind? 

 

One more question. What would have kept those wedges from 'denting' or otherwise physically damaging the outer perimeter of the mast, itself, thus creating even more potential for further loosening between the wedges and the mast? Aside from potential wear to the mast... there must have also been a system for either tightening loose wedges back up against the mast, or maybe just replacing the loose wedges, as needed, once they became worn and compressed. This obviously would have nothing to do with model building. I'm just being curious for the sake of being curious!

  Tom... 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 13, 2023 by tmj

[allanyed]

Great questions Tom.   As far as I know, the wedges were hammered into place but due to their shape and size of the opening they could not fall through even if they got a little loose.  Perhaps they were checked and "reset" on occasion.  The drawing below may help.  It is from The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850, page 169 by Peter Goodwin, ISBN0-87021-016-5

Allan

 

 

 

[tmj]

That explains it nicely. Thanks again, Allan!

[tmj]

The framed in area was first CA glued really well, for strength before drilling. I also put masking tape on the top side of the deck to prevent splintering when the forstner bit came through the planking. After drilling, I rolled up some 400 grit sandpaper to work the hole until the mast fit "Jussst Right!"

"Nice snug fit!"

 

Everything perfectly centered and canted! 

Edited October 15, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

I was hoping to take care of the grating on my middle gun deck this weekend, but that's not going to happen. The grating material that came with the kit has proven to be insufficient, in quantity, to properly make the grating size needed for the middle gun deck. I just ordered some grating material from Model Expo, but it won't be here until next week. I might just continue planking the interior of the hull and work up towards the upper gun deck while I wait. I might even just put this build on hold, until the grating arrives, and work on another model in the meantime.    

[tmj]

I ran into a problem, today, after applying some stain to my middle gun deck. I don't like the look of this, but I'm going to go with it just the same. I don't want to rebuild this deck. Hopefully the different shades of wood (all the same wood) will not be too terribly noticeable once the model is completed, the deck is populated with 'Gun Deck Stuff', grating, and the deck also becomes somewhat 'shaded' and shadowed by the upper decks that are yet to be built and installed. I'll need to pay closer attention to what the wood looks like while I'm laying the planks atop the remaining upper decks. Note to Self... always stagger dark and light planks to ensure that this does not ever happen again! Second Note to Self... try to keep toes and unclipped nails out of future pictures! 😐     

Edited October 20, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

Grating arrived, but it was the wrong grating. I had to re-order the proper sized stuff. I've been waiting, again! No additional work has been done other than a bit of staining and touchup work. New grating is now 'out for delivery'. Fingers are crossed in it being the proper size this time! 

 

[tmj]

New grating material arrived. It's been cut to size, glued together and sanded. Next up will be preparing the deck, gluing the grating down and trimming it out on the deck. I was hoping to get everything done today but ran out of time. "To be continued." 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 29, 2023 by tmj

[tmj]

I was able to steal a bit more time today, while supper is cooking. I've sanded the edges of the gun deck straight and true... and also trimmed out the fore and aft edges of the grating. The long piece of timber is going to become the shot garlands for holding the cannon balls. I need to carve pockets into those pieces, using a 'ball mill routing bit', on my drill-press, to hold the cannon balls before I glue those shot garlands to the port and starboard sides of my grating. I could glue the garlands on now, but if I get off of proper placement with the 'pockets', and it looks bad, I'd have to cut the garlands away and start over. That's too much work. I'm going to drill my shot garlands first. If I'm happy with the pockets for the cannon balls, 'THEN' I'll glue the shot garlands to the sides of the grating and prepare to install the grating onto the deck.  

 

   

Edited October 29, 2023 by tmj

[allanyed]

Hard to tell based on the photos, but do you have the battens running fore and aft as they always did with the ledges running athwartships?

Allan

 

Edited October 31, 2023 by allanyed

[tmj]

On 10/31/2023 at 5:42 AM, allanyed said:

Hard to tell based on the photos, but do you have the battens running fore and aft as they always did with the ledges running athwartships?

No Allan. I have them backwards, "of course!" Another newbie lesson learned! 💩 That's okay. This is just a training model. I need to make as many mistakes as possible on this build in hopes of 'kinda' knowing what I'm doing when I start my next build. Thanks for pointing this out. This is another one of those 'little' things that I'd have never thought would have a right way and a wrong way!

[allanyed]

I am not sure it is always a matter of right or wrong as much as common practice.  Then again, there is usually a reason things were done certain ways.  In the end not all model builders find these kinds of things to matter as much as other builders who find the details to be of varying degrees of importance.  As long as we as individuals are enjoying the hobby, that is what counts.

Allan