Bearding line on Caldercraft HM Brig Supply

[CaptnBirdseye]

Hi Guys

I'm hoping someone could help me here please?

I recently found a started build of the above kit in my garage, one i began many years ago. The kit is partly built up, upto and including the frames and deck. I need to start the planking (which is why it sat in my garage for so long 😔) I've never built one with a bearding line before and would like to give it a try.

So my question is to you guys who have built this kit: how thick would the stern be to allow for the double planking? If the width is 5.65mm how much do i need to shave off each side? 

I will start a diary as well if anyone would be interested?

Thanks in advance

Gray

[Gregory]

I don't know if this will work without pictures,  but what you want is for the ends of the planking, both layers, to fit flush with the stern post; with that in mind you want to shave the bearding area to account for that.

 

To some extent you can blend the 1st planking into the bearding area  short of the stern post, so it won't necessarily be necessary to shave the bearding area to the total depth of both layers of planking.

 

If you need more info just say so and i will try to round up some illustration.

 

 

[CaptnBirdseye]

Thanks Gregory

If you have illustrations that would be brill! A picture being worth etc.....

[Gregory]

Give me a little time to put something together..

[allanyed]

Gray

It sounds like you are talking about the deadwood or rising wood aft which has the bearding line.  Frames normally sit on the bearding line and the planking goes over the frames of course and continues onto the deadwood down to the keel.  I don't know how this works on your kit which I assume is POB.   The deadwood is tapered from the bearding line down to the rabbet line on the keel as if the frames went all the way to the keel which they normally don't do in the aft area.   The rabbet on the inner post has the same depth as the thickness of the planks.  There is a lot more to this so it would be great to get a book or two that illustrates this area clearly.    Others with experience with double layers of planking may be able to give you more details and alternative solutions. 

 

There are excellent illustrations in Construction and Fitting of English Man of War, Frigate Euryalus, Frigate Naiad, The Fully Framed Model, et al.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 10, 2021 by allanyed

[CaptnBirdseye]

Bingo, Allan you got it spot on. Now to find the references

Thanks Gregory that would be great 👍 

Edited May 10, 2021 by RockinBudgie

[Gregory]

Here are a couple of images from the ModelShipways Rattlesnake that I will proceed to mark-up and hopefully explain things.

 

 

 

 

They show the keel and sternpost in place, but I prefer to do the bearding area on the backbone piece ( some call it the false keel ) before the keel and sternpost have been added.  It's easier for me to do with sanding tools than a chisel.

 

 

 

Here is my attempt at illustrating planking to the bearding line for a double plank POB kit.

Your numbers may be different.  If the sternpost is 5mm thick, and the 2nd planks are 1.5mm, taper from the bearding line to make the false keel 2mm at the stern post. This will make the 2nd planking flush with the sternpost.

I also end the 1st planking at the bearding line and sand the ends so they blend into the false keel at the bearding line.  The 1st planking does not show in the end-on view.

 

Of course this is simplified and the finer details of how everything blends together have to be worked out by the builder.  But hopefully this will answer the basic question of:

Quote

 how thick would the stern be to allow for the double planking?

 

 

Let me know if I made it worse or if I can try to clarify something.

 

Here is a build log where Jobbie does his bearding line.  It may help to better visualize things.

 

 

Note, he accounted for the thickness of the first planking all the way to the stern post resulting in a very thin false keel.  If you just run the 1st planking to the bearding line, this won't be an issue.

 

P.S.

I noted by reading further into jobbie's log that he got a tip about taking the first planking to the bearding line, and followed through with that..

Edited May 11, 2021 by Gregory

[CaptnBirdseye]

You’re a star, Gregory. That has helped immensely. If I’m understanding it right, the taper is a constant width? I was worried that it would taper on both axis and feared that would be a nightmare for a novice to get even widths 🥺

regards Gray

[Gregory]

3 hours ago, RockinBudgie said:

the taper is a constant width? I was worried that it would taper on both axis and feared that would be a nightmare for a novice to get even widths

It's not clear to me what your concern is.  I can think of one more thing that might help with clarification, but it will be later today before I can illustrate.

[CaptnBirdseye]

Apologies if i'm not making myself very clear (novice with all this nautical terminology lol).

If you look at the keel from the stern, does it taper in from the top, like a 'v' shape as in first image of #7 ?(exagerated) or does it go straight, like the lower image?

Actually, looking at the diagram again, i think i've answered my own question as it looks to taper almost to a point on the first pass, then fills out to square with the second planking

Sorry for the confusion. Novice questions must drive you barmy lol

 

Regards

Gray

[allanyed]

Gray,

Are you sure it has a bearding line and not a stepping line with the bearding line just in the aft most few feet?  As this a POB, the steps versus bearding line may not make sense anyway as it will all be covered with planking so never to be seen again.  Same goes for the deadwood forward.

Cheers

Edited May 11, 2021 by allanyed

[Gregory]

26 minutes ago, RockinBudgie said:

then fills out to square with the second planking

The false keel will be full thickness at the blue line where the 1st planking will end.  The ends of the first planking ( blue ) will be tapered ( faired ) into the false keel so the maximum thickness there is still 5mm.  ( my measurements )

The false keel will be tapered to 2mm from the blue line to the stern post.  At the stern the false keel (viewed end on ) will be 2mm from top to bottom.

The fitting of the planks will be a little more involved for the counter and the transom..

 

If you want to hold out for more illustrations,  I can see what I can do later..  No trouble, it's what we are here for.