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Posted

When building a plank-on-frame model, I understand the idea of gluing a paper frame drawing to a frame blank and then cutting it out. 

 

What I don't understand is making the bevels.

 

It seems fairly easy to sand the bevel that is tilted slightly toward the paper-side of the frame blank (the inside or outside bevel, depending on the drawing), but what about the bevel on the side of the frame that is tilted away the paper? 

Brett D.

Posted (edited)

 Once the frame is cut out but not beveled, you can mark the bevel on the inside by measuring with a caliper from the paper plan and mark points along the inside of the frame every inch or so then draw a line to connect the dots.  I try to stay just outside the line then finish up once the frames are fixed in place.  Might be some easier way and I for one would love to hear about it! 

Allan

Edited by allanyed

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Posted

Just be careful not to over-bevel! If you cross over the bevel line the frames fore and aft of it will also be affected. Personally, I do no beveling until all the frames are installed. If you choose to pre-bevel then perhaps stay 1/16th inch shy of the bevel marks to allow for the inevitable errors that arise when gluing the frames in place.

Greg

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Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

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Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

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Speedwell, 1752

Posted

If you have cut your fames to the bevel lines before installing them you will have stepping both inside and outside the frames across the hull (depending on the curvature). Apply pencil marks over the inside and outside surfaces of the frames. Start with 80 grit paper, then progressive grits until the pencil lines disappear. Your hull should then be fair. Obviously check the  thickness to insure you are on spec.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted
1 hour ago, dvm27 said:

Start with 80 grit paper, then progressive grits until the pencil lines disappear. Your hull should then be fair.

To the extent space allows, a suitably flexible batten with sandpaper attached will permit sanding across a number of frame faces while maintaining a fair curve to the shape of the hull. 

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