Bluenose II by Travis - Artesania Latina - 1:75

[travis]

Some overall to capture current rigging progress.

[travis]

Jumbo jib sail complete.  Lacing to boom with robands.

[travis]

Finally getting back to it after a lot of long pauses.  Lots finished on deck:  life rafts, air vents, life preserves. Jib tie downs on bowsprite, ships bell,

 

[travis]

Now stepping the masts!  Shrouds always give me pause.  Lots get get right and plenty to go wrong.

Dories too with some scratch oars.

[travis]

Shrouds set.  Stays in progress.

[travis]

Next, ratlines.  Getting pretty good at clove hitches after this!

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Superb job on your Bluenose 2 build !  As its on my future list, your modifications will be a great guide.  I noted what you said about the original blocks, and your decision to use Syren blocks - and they look good as you stropped them.  I also noted what Rob  Wiederrich  observed about the blocks one can get from a Revell 1:96 C.S., Thermie or Connie kit, the bodies of which measure about 0.140", or about 3.5mm.  He has made use of them on several of his clippers. The single blocks come with either one molded becket or two.  The double blocks have 2 beckets, of course, one can be clipped off if not needed in an application.  These look like internally stropped blocks.

 

  At 1:96 they are a tad oversized, representing about a 13" block at that scale.  At 1:75 (of the Bluenose 2) they'd be pretty close - representing about 10".  So I'm pondering (for future reference) the practicality of using painted Revell blocks at 1:75, v/s slightly larger wood blocks that must be individually stropped.  'Just a thought.

[travis]

On 7/21/2024 at 2:18 PM, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Superb job on your Bluenose 2 build !  As its on my future list, your modifications will be a great guide.  I noted what you said about the original blocks, and your decision to use Syren blocks - and they look good as you stropped them.  I also noted what Rob  Wiederrich  observed about the blocks one can get from a Revell 1:96 C.S., Thermie or Connie kit, the bodies of which measure about 0.140", or about 3.5mm.  He has made use of them on several of his clippers. The single blocks come with either one molded becket or two.  The double blocks have 2 beckets, of course, one can be clipped off if not needed in an application.  These look like internally stropped blocks.

 

  At 1:96 they are a tad oversized, representing about a 13" block at that scale.  At 1:75 (of the Bluenose 2) they'd be pretty close - representing about 10".  So I'm pondering (for future reference) the practicality of using painted Revell blocks at 1:75, v/s slightly larger wood blocks that must be individually stropped.  'Just a thought.

Thanks for the feedback.  One take away I have from this project is that you really just have to make it your own!  For example, I found that a lot of items in the kit are oversized so shrinking where possible helps with realism but in some cases, I decided "how it looks on the model" was better than realism so so things I left overscale becuase I just liked it!  For the blocks, I haven't looked at the revel blocks but anything mist be better than the many of the kit supplied!  I really liked the scale (and variety) from Syren.  I got some of his rope too although not all.  For some of my rigging I am using various weight needlepoint thread (from hobby lobby!).  I know that's not as realistic but I like the variety, availability, ease of use and price for some.  Again, it's all about balance to get what you are going to enjoy doing and a look you will be able to appreciate at the end!  In fact, I would say most of my mods are either becuase the kit supplied item sucks, the kit didn't supply an item, or most importantly I just felt like doing it (just seemed fun to do!).

[travis]

Ratlines set.  Added running lights.  Now the final shrouds that go from top mast to rail.

[travis]

Final shrouds ready.  Now it's robands for the main sail boom.

[travis]

Looking for advise if anyone has details on catheads for this kind/era of schooner.  Trying to figure out how the chain on the cathead to the anchors is attached (to the rail?).  You can see in the Pic how I just have the two ends temporarily dropped crossed each other over the bowsprit.  Just looking for the best approach to attach there near the catheads and how that would typically look.  Haven't found that particular detail in my searches.

[travis]

4 minutes ago, travis said:

Looking for advise if anyone has details on catheads for this kind/era of schooner.  Trying to figure out how the chain on the cathead to the anchors is attached (to the rail?).  You can see in the Pic how I just have the two ends temporarily dropped crossed each other over the bowsprit.  Just looking for the best approach to attach there near the catheads and how that would typically look.  Haven't found that particular detail in my searches.

Davit is probably a more correct term than cathead!

[Knocklouder]

Hello Travis, I can't help I am a newbie,

But seek out @John Ruy logs for his blue nose. He does some incredible work he will have the answers.  Good luck.

Bob  M.                  

[travis]

2 hours ago, Knocklouder said:

Hello Travis, I can't help I am a newbie,

But seek out @John Ruy logs for his blue nose. He does some incredible work he will have the answers.  Good luck.

Bob  M.                  

That was perfect.  I'm surprised I didn't stumble on his log before but got it bookmarked now.  Not only did he have a good design for what I needed (and good pics!), he had close photos of the actual setup on the bluenose II.  Perfect!

[travis]

39 minutes ago, travis said:

That was perfect.  I'm surprised I didn't stumble on his log before but got it bookmarked now.  Not only did he have a good design for what I needed (and good pics!), he had close photos of the actual setup on the bluenose II.  Perfect!

Here's what I went with.  I'm using walnut belay pins everywhere else but kept the kit supplied metal here (they are slightly longer and thinner and maybe accentuate the metal chain?).  

[travis]

Jumbo jib set in place.  Couple lines yet to tie off but first sail pretty much rigged.

[travis]

Next sail in progress.  Couple more lines to rig and then I can move to the main gaff

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  OMGosh, Travis - you've hit upon another method of doing ratlines that might not have struck you as such ... but when I saw the photo showing your green (starboard) light right above the deadeyes, I pictured the application I'll describe.  Rather than have a paper template behind the shrouds to follow, and that means often making them for port and starboard (due the the reversed angle), and are often different for each mast and level aloft ...

 

  One can take a piece of thin, bendable metal (thin lead sheet, or copper) that is the thickness of the space to be between each successive ratline, and bend one end over to make a clip, so to speak (whether one is right handed or left handed would determine doesn't matter, since the clip can be turned upside down to put it on the 'other' side, as desired).  The clip can be longer than needed (to some degree).  Clip it on one side at the outer shroud, and bend the other end over the outer shroud on the opposite side.  It would begin by resting on that horizontal bar over the deadeyes.

 

  Then a ratline is attached to whatever shrouds are involved, along the line of the top of the metal jig.  Then unbend one end  (eventually there will be metal fatigue, but if so, simply bend a new strip).  The strip can be easily cut, since it is thin, on a 'guillotine-bar' (hinged on one end) paper cutter found in a stationery store. Slide the jig off the still bent end.

 

  Move the strip above the ratline just tied, slide the jig on and bend the opposite end.  The jig will rest on the ratline previously tied.  Going 'up the ladder', one ratline at a time, will give evenly spaced, horizontal ratlines.

 

  Hmmmm, it just occurred to me that you don't have to use metal at all, but just apply a piece of "painters' tape" of the width you want (one can always use an X-acto around the edge of roll of tape to get the desired width) on the shrouds.  The tape will stick (but not aggressively) to the shrouds, and one ties or sews a ratline using the top edge of the tape as the guide.  Then remove the tape and move above the ratline just tied.  EUREKA !  Moving the tape a little from side to side before 'sticking' means that one piece can be used a number of times before it sticks less securely.  Then just pull off a fresh piece of tape from the roll and you're good to go.  "Oh frabjous day! Callooh! Callay! He chortled in his joy." (from The Jabberwocky)

 

  Another matter ... I've obtained a copy of the L.B. Jenson 'Bluenose II' book - and it far exceeded my expectation.  It appears that his drawings and specs are of the 1963 'as built' version of the Bluenose 2 - his work was commissioned in 1970 (done over 3 1/2 years) and first published in 1975 with the imprimatur of the first owner (who sold the craft to the Province in 1971 for $1 - Canadian).  There was a LOT of controversy over the EXPENSIVE 'rebuild' that went over-long and over-budget (American were blamed by some due to our seaworthy laws, yet similar vessels have been built for a third or less of the aprox. $20 Million Canadian effort).  There were changes made (just compare the sterns seen from astern, for one), and many say that the original Bluenose 2 was effectively 'put through a shredder', and the virtually all-new construction should have been named Bluenose 3.

 

  So perhaps the A.L. kit built "out of the box" is closer to the present ship afloat as rebuilt.  (Heck, the U.S.S. Constellation was 'refurbished' in the 1850s (in a trick to get Congressional funding) ... not a new ship at all ... just fixing up an old one ...    Using the Jenson Book to get closer to the 1963 version is the way I'd like to go.  Of course, another builder might want to portray the ship afloat at the present time - and use the many photos available to help in that regard.  Almost all ships go through 'phases', and one can choose whatever time, place and/or configuration that one can document.

[travis]

On 8/4/2024 at 1:56 PM, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  OMGosh, Travis - you've hit upon another method of doing ratlines that might not have struck you as such ... but when I saw the photo showing your green (starboard) light right above the deadeyes, I pictured the application I'll describe.  Rather than have a paper template behind the shrouds to follow, and that means often making them for port and starboard (due the the reversed angle), and are often different for each mast and level aloft ...

 

  One can take a piece of thin, bendable metal (thin lead sheet, or copper) that is the thickness of the space to be between each successive ratline, and bend one end over to make a clip, so to speak (whether one is right handed or left handed would determine doesn't matter, since the clip can be turned upside down to put it on the 'other' side, as desired).  The clip can be longer than needed (to some degree).  Clip it on one side at the outer shroud, and bend the other end over the outer shroud on the opposite side.  It would begin by resting on that horizontal bar over the deadeyes.

 

  Then a ratline is attached to whatever shrouds are involved, along the line of the top of the metal jig.  Then unbend one end  (eventually there will be metal fatigue, but if so, simply bend a new strip).  The strip can be easily cut, since it is thin, on a 'guillotine-bar' (hinged on one end) paper cutter found in a stationery store. Slide the jig off the still bent end.

 

  Move the strip above the ratline just tied, slide the jig on and bend the opposite end.  The jig will rest on the ratline previously tied.  Going 'up the ladder', one ratline at a time, will give evenly spaced, horizontal ratlines.

 

  Hmmmm, it just occurred to me that you don't have to use metal at all, but just apply a piece of "painters' tape" of the width you want (one can always use an X-acto around the edge of roll of tape to get the desired width) on the shrouds.  The tape will stick (but not aggressively) to the shrouds, and one ties or sews a ratline using the top edge of the tape as the guide.  Then remove the tape and move above the ratline just tied.  EUREKA !  Moving the tape a little from side to side before 'sticking' means that one piece can be used a number of times before it sticks less securely.  Then just pull off a fresh piece of tape from the roll and you're good to go.  "Oh frabjous day! Callooh! Callay! He chortled in his joy." (from The Jabberwocky)

 

  Another matter ... I've obtained a copy of the L.B. Jenson 'Bluenose II' book - and it far exceeded my expectation.  It appears that his drawings and specs are of the 1963 'as built' version of the Bluenose 2 - his work was commissioned in 1970 (done over 3 1/2 years) and first published in 1975 with the imprimatur of the first owner (who sold the craft to the Province in 1971 for $1 - Canadian).  There was a LOT of controversy over the EXPENSIVE 'rebuild' that went over-long and over-budget (American were blamed by some due to our seaworthy laws, yet similar vessels have been built for a third or less of the aprox. $20 Million Canadian effort).  There were changes made (just compare the sterns seen from astern, for one), and many say that the original Bluenose 2 was effectively 'put through a shredder', and the virtually all-new construction should have been named Bluenose 3.

 

  So perhaps the A.L. kit built "out of the box" is closer to the present ship afloat as rebuilt.  (Heck, the U.S.S. Constellation was 'refurbished' in the 1850s (in a trick to get Congressional funding) ... not a new ship at all ... just fixing up an old one ...    Using the Jenson Book to get closer to the 1963 version is the way I'd like to go.  Of course, another builder might want to portray the ship afloat at the present time - and use the many photos available to help in that regard.  Almost all ships go through 'phases', and one can choose whatever time, place and/or configuration that one can document.

I like that approach for ratlines.  Allows to verify each one looks "visually:level before tieing.  Might also help keep them spaced evenly.  I thing you could put a repositional sticky back on there so the shrouds would be lightly stuck at the interval while tieing off.  I tied every knot on this build as a true clove hitch so positioning was painstaking to get right!

 

For the Jensen book, I did almost purchase it as well but held off when I realized that the AL kit was not correct to any version of the bluenose.  There is some mixing ov versions in their kit and some components that don't match any version!  Classic for AL.  They can keep their costs/prices slightly lower due to a lack of accuracy.  I did do some of my own research to scratch modify some items to match the current day bluenose design.  Some. I just left what AL provided as it wasn't worth moding.  In the end, my building may not truly be accurate but it's only for.me anyways and I like how it's turning out for my own purpose!

[travis]

Main sail set.

[travis]

And now the jib.

 

[travis]

More progress and finishing up on some of the riggings.rigging.  added last jib and the main top mast.

[travis]

Staysail up bit need to get the fore top sail in first to tighten up.

[travis]

Final sail

[travis]

Final pics (for now).  Added rope hanks and cleaned everything up.  I still need to run flag halyards but need laser transfer paper to make them and running low on rope.  Also need more rope for dory tackle.  AL stand is sub par but it will work for now until I get time to build a proper display stand.