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Posted

Totally agree Rob.  Jared, we all make aesthetic decisions based on what we know and what we think looks good/ correct.

I will choose to mount the booms in their irons, the traditional way to display them. Not right or wrong, just personal preference.

The model looks great!!!

Rick

Posted (edited)

The rigging of the flying jib halliard, outer jib halliard, jib halliard and fore topmast stunsl halliard have now been completed.  I can see light at the end of the tunnel!  I also tightened up the associated standing rigging, replacing one of the lines.

 

 

Updated Punch List of Outstanding Tasks for Completion of my Flying Fish.

 

  1. Rig the following 2 halliards: Mizen Staysail Halliard, Mn Topgal Staysl Halliard.
  2. Rig all yard braces
  3. Rig the flag halliards and install the flags.
  4. Add the Bowsprit manropes (horses) p/s
  5. Complete the insides of 2 ships boats & mount on the supplied davits.
  6.  Add a few rope coils to the deck
  7. Make 3D printed scale figures (crew & officers) (WIP)
  8. Final touch up painting and cleaning of the model.
  9. Fabricate a case and plaque
  10. Celebrate the model's completion with a few well deserved shots of a good single malt scotch!

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Edited by Jared
Posted

@Jared

It constantly amazes me how much complex rigging is involved in these beautifully designed clipper ships. Painstaking doesn't even come close to describing the immense patience required to successfully duplicate this in scale.

Posted

Thanks Rich.  It is quite magical how it all slowly comes together.   These ships, which are a marvel of engineering and human ingenuity, are certainly one of man's most beautifully made creations.   To stand on a deck of any tall ship like the Cutty Sark is an incredibly inspiring and humbling experience.

Posted

@Jared I know exactly what you mean. I've been on the decks of the Frigate USS Constitution "Old Ironsides", the whaler Charles W. Morgan when she was still a full-rigged ship as she was launched and the barque USCGS Eagle. Each time it was a dizzying experience to comprehend the gossamer webbing of lines, blocks and tackles. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

As a diversion from the endless rigging I decided to install the boat davits and complete the insides of the 2 ship's boats which will hand from them.  I used the kit's Brittania cast boats which I had previously painted.  I then used a crimping tool to curve the wood strip boat ribs, gluing them in place.  The wooded floor boards were then glued in place, and then the sests.

 

For the oars I carve a small notch into some small length wood strips then glued the oar handles (narrow diameter incence sticjs) into the notches.  The paddels were sanded to shape, painted, then glued and tied into the 2 boats.

 

The unpainted wood parts were coated with tung oil as finish.

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Edited by Jared
Posted

Great looking boats Jared. You are definitely nearing the end of the journey.

Current Builds: Bluejacket USS KearsargeRRS Discovery 1:72 scratch

Completed Builds: Model Shipways 1:96 Flying Fish | Model Shipways 1:64 US Brig Niagara | Model Shipways 1:64 Pride of Baltimore II (modified) | Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack | Heller 1:150 Passat | Revell 1:96 USS Constitution

Posted (edited)

A build log would be of limited value if it only showed the forward achievements and none of the worts that occurred during the build.  About a month ago I had a bit of an accidental disaster that I did not mention.

 

Photo 1 shows a floor lamp I use to light my work area.  Its a great lamp except for the fact it is top heavy and poorly balanced.  Well the inevidable happened last month.  It toppled over and grazed some of the foremast and bowsprit rigging on the model, pulling out a few of the securing eye bolts holding lines.  As these were easy enough to repair, I chose not to comment about it.   I fixed the lamp problem by adding two 3-pound weight to the based.  And so I thought thatvwas the end of it.  BUT NOT SO 😪.

 

Early last week I noticed that the thin diameter  top section of my foremast was leaning, and on further inspection realized that in fact the cause break was a complete.  I was at wits end what to do about it.   Fortunately a fellow member of   model boat club I belong to (Model Shipwright's of Niagara, MSON) is a master builder and restorer of model ships (Ray Peacock).  He was able to save the mast by drilling holes in the adjacent broken ends and epoxy gluingvthem back together with a brass pin inserted in the drilled holes like a dowel (see last photo).

 

Thanks Rayvfor saving the day!  I have to reinstall 3 stays then the repair will be completely done.  The moral of this story is that sh!# happens in models build's but things are often repairable.  Thanks for reading.20250802_115845.thumb.jpg.454b6b39f4f72616b910603eb9b33b24.jpg

 

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Edited by Jared

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