HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build

[molasses]

I've fixed the missing pictures in that series of posts.

 

Suggest you check other pages because there are missing pics on pages 16 through 19.

Edited May 18, 2014 by DFellingham

[drtrap]

Suggest you check other pages because there are missing pics on pages 16 through 19.

The pics on page 10 are ok now!

[jim_smits]

Yeah haven't really had time to check all the other pages.....!

[jim_smits]

Updated!

[jim_smits]

Whoops! Wrong build log should be on the Ballahoo....

I'll shift this post when I get back.

 

UPDATE - post deleted and added to Ballahoo

Edited May 24, 2014 by jim_smits

[Beef Wellington]

I like it Jim, think there is definitely evidence for the frapping, its a much more workmanlike solution than the coiled ropes which look nice but not very practical for a variety of reasons.

[drtrap]

Hi Jim

as I see you have'nt used any cleat at the bowsprit as a guide to secure te gammoning of the main bowsprit.

Did you encounter any problem in practise after that choise?

My plan is to leave the bowsprit natural (uncoloured) so I'd like to avoid those wedge-shaped walnut guide-"stoppers" of the gammoning line, especially for aesthetical reasons.

Thanks.

[jim_smits]

Hi Jim

as I see you have'nt used any cleat at the bowsprit as a guide to secure te gammoning of the main bowsprit.

Did you encounter any problem in practise after that choise?

My plan is to leave the bowsprit natural (uncoloured) so I'd like to avoid those wedge-shaped walnut guide-"stoppers" of the gammoning line, especially for aesthetical reasons.

Thanks.

 

Hi mate,

 

I actually went back and re-did my gammoning on the bowsprit and added in some cleats to aid the gammoning process. Looked fine as I painted but not sure how to achieve this on a wood finish.

 

Jim

[drtrap]

........................ Did a quick check of the mast orientation. There was a distinct lean to the right from the front view. Quickly sanded down the bottom and added a shim to straighten it out. All good!

 

 

Hi Jim.

At this step, you mean that you have sanded down a bit the hole of the deck from the side (right) of the mast tilt?

Thanks 

[jim_smits]

Hi Stergios

If I remember correctly I sanded the bottom of the mast itself and added a shim so that the very bottom of the mast is shifted to remove the slant.

[drtrap]

Hi Stergios

If I remember correctly I sanded the bottom of the mast itself and added a shim so that the very bottom of the mast is shifted to remove the slant.

Thank you Jim, I'll try this tip asap

[jim_smits]

And back to the Snake build.....!

 

Looking to get started on the spars but I have a question regarding using a hand drill as a lathe. I understand that obvious the drill itself must be braced in a jug of some type but I am unsure as to how brace the other end of a dowel to be turned. Any ideas?

[Kitzilla]

I was actually just messing with this myself tonight.

 

My solution was quick and dirty. I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel in a piece of scrap wood, and then clamped that. With the drill clamped in one jig, and the tip of the dowel resting in the hole of the clamped piece of scrap wood, it kept everything secure. You just need to make sure you account for the length of the tip of the dowel resting in the scrap-wood hole so your overall spar length is accurate.

 

Once you get your spar down to the near finished proportions, you just have to cut off the bit from the tip and the end that was chucked in the drill and hand fiinish those sections.

[drtrap]

I was actually just messing with this myself tonight.

 

My solution was quick and dirty. I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel in a piece of scrap wood, and then clamped that. With the drill clamped in one jig, and the tip of the dowel resting in the hole of the clamped piece of scrap wood, it kept everything secure. You just need to make sure you account for the length of the tip of the dowel resting in the scrap-wood hole so your overall spar length is accurate.

 

Once you get your spar down to the near finished proportions, you just have to cut off the bit from the tip and the end that was chucked in the drill and hand fiinish those sections.

Hi Kevi, any related photos??

[Kitzilla]

Here's a quick one I just took. Fairly basic but it gets the job done. And since I'm just using scrap wood for the receiving hole, I can just drill new holes to accommodate larger or smaller spars.

 

[jim_smits]

Cheers Kevin!

 

Low tech and dirty is always a good option. Also been investigating getting a scrap drill and extracting the chuck and bearing and mounting as the opposite end to the driving drill.

[cog]

Jim,

 

I made a DIY lathe kind a jigg from a drill and a drill head and lathe centre. In the image you see only the centre, but later I added the drill head so I could change the tool at the opposite side of the drill

 

 

maybe something to use s reference material ...

[jim_smits]

Thanks Carl.

 

I'm going to order a lathe centre from eBay and get some ply from B&Q and whip something together. I'll let you all know how I get on.

[monkeyman]

Hey, Jim! How do you find Caldercraft kit? I compared Flying Fish from Model Shipways and Supply Brig / HMS Jalouse from Caldercraft and have some doubts in Caldercraft's manufacture. Totaly love what MSW does, but Caldercaft looks a bit... cranky to me.

 

What's your opinion? How good's your kit? Is it easy to build? Do part fit well?

 

Just want some on-the-fly opinion :-)

[jim_smits]

Hey, Jim! How do you find Caldercraft kit? I compared Flying Fish from Model Shipways and Supply Brig / HMS Jalouse from Caldercraft and have some doubts in Caldercraft's manufacture. Totaly love what MSW does, but Caldercaft looks a bit... cranky to me.

 

What's your opinion? How good's your kit? Is it easy to build? Do part fit well?

 

Just want some on-the-fly opinion :-)

Hi

 

I've found the kit itself to be pretty good although the main weakness are the plans and instructions as this seems to be an earlier model. That being said it's a good kit for what you pay and can be enhanced easily with some aftermarket upgrades like carronades, blocks and rigging thread.

 

Ultimately your choice but I've been happy with Snake.

[jim_smits]

Jim,

 

I made a DIY lathe kind a jigg from a drill and a drill head and lathe centre. In the image you see only the centre, but later I added the drill head so I could change the tool at the opposite side of the drill

 

diy.lathe.012.jpg

 

maybe something to use s reference material ...

 

Carl,

 

Couple of quick queries.

 

1) Presumably the lathe centre has inbuilt bearings and can be mounted directly into a block of wood?

 

2) For mounting a drill chuck, did you have to 'acquire' a separate bearing? (i guess a radial bearing is best in this case)

 

Cheers

Edited January 29, 2015 by jim_smits

[cog]

Jim,

 

1/ The centre has built-in bearings, it is as we call it a self revolving centre. At first I only used the centre, but changed it later to a chuck for versatility.

2/ The drill chuck I mounted fixed, however, if you want it to rotate, you'll need a bearing, whichyou can take out of an old broken drill if you've got one of those ... and radial would do. It is only a spinning action it needs to perform and the pressure won't be more than the weight of the chuck and centre (or other insert)

 

If you want more pictures, just ask ...

[jim_smits]

Ok. Made a good start on the large over the weekend. Went to B&Q and bought some timber and got the handsaw out and made some sawdust....!

 

Base is done, together with the sliders for the end plate section. Initial brace for front drill is also done. just need to build up the support for the drill itself now and drill the hole in the end plate.

 

Spare chuck has arrived and just waiting on a couple of radial bearings

[cog]

Nice work! Your nearly good to go. Looking forward to the results. Get your chisels sharp

[jim_smits]

Got a chisel on order from eBay, should arrive by the weekend hopefully.

[cog]

Excitement all over. You probably cannot wait to start!

[jim_smits]

Chisel arrived Friday. Gave it a sharpening using successive grade of sandpaper over a ceramic tile. Probably can get it sharper with more effort

 

Think there will be a bit of a learning curve and I think trying to fabricate a tool rest will help. Did some test runs on 8mm dowel and it's tricky to say the least. Perhaps flexing of dowel under pressure doesn't help?

 

Anyway, a little way off attempting my actual yards yet......

[cog]

I polished the edge of my chisels with a sharpening stone for skates ... It has two sides: One for sharpening and the other one very fine for polishing. Use the stone to sharpen my kitchen knives too ... Does that tell something about me ...??? I sharpen the chisels on a rotating sharpening stone (machine), and finish it off by hand.

 

You have to watch out giving too much pressure on the wood, as you may end up with a wobbly yard in your case. The flexibility and thickness of the piece you are turning needs to be considered. The thinner the easier it will bend. You could tackle very thin pieces with sandpaper ... You just loop it around the wood ... N.b. A course grid will leave you with wounderful grooves

Edited February 9, 2015 by cog

[jim_smits]

Cheers Carl,

 

I think i'll try to do the ends with a chisel as there is more material to remove and they will be closer to the fixed points anyway and then fniish and polish with sand paper.

 

Playing about with techniques at the moment before committing to actual pieces.

[cog]

Righto, thought you would be. Thus gave my two cents ...