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TIMBER SHEATHING AND IRON NAIL FILLING OF HULLS


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Hi team,

 

I'm new and although I have searched the forum I haven't found anything specifically on the timber sheathing and iron nail filling of RN ship hulls prior to the introduction of copper sheathing.

I am building the new 1/65 Artesania HMB ENDEAVOUR and research indicates that the hull was timber sheather and iron nail filled with the idea that the nail heads would rust forming a rust coating over the whole hull.

This being the case, how would one model such a finish.  A rust comes in a multitude of shades I would guess stippling the hull with various rust colours combined with a little medium would create the 'authentic' used feel.  But how would one represent and brand new finish?

Completed:  

PORT JACKSON - 1803 Topsail Schooner 1/50 by Modellers Shipyard

HMB ENDEAVOUR - 1768 Bark 1/64 by Artesania Latina

Under Construction:  

HMAV BOUNTY - 1/60 by Amati

NORFOLK Colonial Sloop- 1/64 Scratchbuild

HMS EURYALUS - 1:48 Scratchbuild POF

Next Project:  

HMS THUNDRER - 1/48 CAF Models/Scratchbuild

Planned:  

HMS SUPPLY - 1/64 Scratchbuild

HMS SIRIUS

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Hello Peter, 

I will be interested in what others have to say since this sheathing is seldom represented on models.

You may find the text around page 34 and 35 in this document helpful:

 

TAR in keel construction.pdf

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Hi Peter, I also would be interested.  My understanding was Endeavour was coated with 'brown stuff' with a sacrificial timber sheathing.  How the sheathing was attached I do not know.  The brown stuff was a pitch/tar and straw mix I think - so learning more about this will be of interest.  I simulated this on my model of HMB Endeavour by initially coating the bottom with motorcar 'underbody' preservative (bitumen mix).  This went on well and dried beautifully and looked just right. 

 

However, this was in winter and when the first hot days arrived it went very soft and started to 'slouch' in places 😟.  I then scraped and wiped it off which left a nice darkened effect on the walnut planking I used - the net result (accidental finish)  worked for me in providing a difference in wood finish to delineate the upper and lower planking while leaving the planking detail still visible).  Below are a couple of pictures, but the finish may not be to your taste.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

1522164741_BowwithHatches.jpg.ac7b029d235b152f7895bb9823f6624c.jpg2002723831_EndeavourSide18Feb14_msw.thumb.jpg.59cc505c8daa3c5b540e36c2de238cdf.jpg

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Peter, the best way to replicate a hull surface would be to paint the hull with a color you think best portrays the combinations mentioned in there below paragraph, IMHO.  

 

 Paragraph from the below link on page 212.......

 

"In the 18th century, after lead, with which" it apparently alternated, had been pro- nounced a failure, wood sheathing was again in general use (12, 49). It was sometimes filed with iron or copper nails having large heads, put in so closely that the heads were touching and formed a kind of metallc sheathing (38, 69). This wooden sheathing also was often painted with various mix- tures of tar and grease; with sulfur, oil, "and other ingredients"; or with pitch, tar, and brimstone" 

 

https://darchive.mblwhoilibrary.org/bitstream/handle/1912/191/chapter 11.pdf?sequence=20

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Keith Black
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