Flying Fish by Rick310 - Model Shipways - 1/96

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, Rick310 said:

Keith, is the blackening solution you use called Birchwood Casey Blue?

Rick

 No, it's Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Birchwood Casey Blue is for a blue finish. 

[Rick310]

Got it!

Thanks Keith!

[Rick310]

Started rigging the mizzen mast.  I decided to use .025 diameter line from Syren.  This is a bit undersized for the shrouds but I plan to serve the line, which will bring the served portion to approximately the correct diameter.  

The thread I am using to serve is approximately .004 inch diameter from Bluejacket.  I will also use this thread for the rat lines.  This is a bit too large but anything smaller I fear will be too difficult to work with.

Several years ago I purchased a serving machine from Syren, forgetting that 3 decades ago I purchased one from Model Shipways(?).  It ended up fortuitous as the one from Syren works great for the shrouds and the other one works well for serving the 28 gauge brass wire sheer poles.  Serving extends from the futtock shrouds to the upper deadeyes on the first ( forward) shroud.

The shrouds were served and parceled per EdT and the Young America.

Serving the shrouds was not difficult and actually enjoyable as long as I gave it my full attention.  The parceling was silk span and painted black with acrylic paint.

I made a jig to hold the upper deadeyes, again, as described by EdT.  This seemed to work well until I went to lace the deadeyes and the last 2 were too long.  All three seizings had already been tied and when I tried to cut them to adjust the length between the upper and lower deadeyes, I damaged the last 2 shrouds on the port side and had to replace them.  I recalled from Nic at Bluejacket that to shorten the length, the shrouds can be twisted to shorten, or untwisted to lengthen   This is what I did on the other shrouds.  The downside is that the upper deadeyes want to untwist and getting them to face forward with the sheer pole was difficult and challenging.  The result of s not as good as I would have liked but I’m going with it.

One difficulty was deciding how long to make the short end of the shroud.  No where could I find any reference for the length, so I arbitrarily went with 12/32 inch or 3 scale feet.  All seizing were placed using a needle which worked well.

Again, not as good as I had hoped with the results but hopefully they won’t be that noticeable and I will get better moving forward.

Sheer poles were added at the junction with the futtock shrouds and at the top of the upper deadeyes. This was the only one I served.  Later, I will add the staves of 28 gauge brass wire.  Not sure if rigid staves are appropriate for 1851, but they will help hold the shrouds in place when I tie on the rat lines.

Starting with the mizzen mast was a huge advantage when I placed the mizzen stay!

After careful measuring and serving, the forward end of the stay was past through the bullseye and seized back on itself.  This was done on the bench.  The fairlead that attaches to the main mast was previously slipped on.  The bullseye was then glued into place, the main mast inserted, and the fairlead glued to the main mast.  The other end was taken through the lubber’s hole, around the mast head, and seized to itself where the serving meets.  This seizing came out much better.  Silk span was wrapped around the serving at the mast head and painted brown to simulate leather.

Additionally, the mizzen spencer’s throat halyards was rigged while it was still accessible.  I left it loose for now.

Finally, I made the in haul/out hauls for both the main and fore spencer booms.  These were attached together with bowline knots and threaded through the blocks  at the Spencer gooseneck.

.

[gak1965]

Looking great, Rick!

[Rick310]

Thanks for your kind words George!

Rick

[Rick310]

Brief update.  Finished the main shrouds, same as mizzen with serving and parcelling.

It was at this time I realized I needed to rig the main yard lift tackles. Access to the mizzen and fore mast is straightforward, as I have yet to place the fore cabin. but the main mast is severely restricted.  Should have rigged them prior to stepping the main mast.

After strapping 3/32 single blocks with 26ga copper wire and rigging the tackles with .008 line, I was fortunate to get the lower blocks into the eyebolts next to the mast by working under the fife rail.  Would have been much easier before the masts and shrouds placed!

Next up are the other lift tackles and the main stay.  Working from aft, forward has been much easier than forwards aft!!  Thanks Rob and George for the great suggestion!!

[rwiederrich]

Rick, You're very welcome.  After 50 years of building clippers....I figured it out.😁   Your model is looking just wonderful...well done.  Yes...another thing I learned, is to preplan and execute a lot of things far before you actually have to rig or do them.  Fully *blocking* your yards and masts is a must.  Nothing worse, then having to try to put a block or eyebolt in a tight spot.  So much pre-thought is required.  It's like playing chess...you have to think 4~5 moves ahead.....or more.    You're doing fine work.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

14 hours ago, Rick310 said:

Working from aft, forward has been much easier than forwards aft!! 

Right...much easier working away from your work, then past your work...where bumps can happen.  I go so far as to add all the backstays and the booms as well.  Rig that mizzen out....then move forward...and so on....

Rob

[Rick310]

That has been great advice Rob!  Can’t imagine trying to rig the FF any other way and not break something, which I still manage to do occasionally!

Rick