Le Leudo 1913 by kentyler - 1/36th - CARD - from Ancre plans

[kentyler]

Started a lot of models over the last few years. New state, new house, new model.

[kentyler]

Using heavy card for the keel (did I mention this is a paper model ?)

Testing against a jig cut from a spare plan to see that 2 layers of my card will give me the right width

Since i need the lines to cut a notch I have to transfer them to the other side of one of my pieces of paper.

Gluing up.

A little time for the glue to dry and we cut. Long straight lines with shears...smaller cuts with xacto knife.

Glue them together and presto, a keel.

It will require some sanding and filling and some straightening (you bend it in your hands)

then I have to put some blocks on the modeling board to hold it in place.

Away we go.....

[kentyler]

For me, there is always a trade off between using thicker card (which is much harder to cut) and building up heavy parts by laminating thinner car. I went the thick card route on this model ..... regretting it already. because my cuts are rarely perfectly perpendicular, I have to smooth and trim the surfaces of any joints so they will be tight.

[kentyler]

this is kind of fun....

[kentyler]

and...i run into my first glitch in the plans...at least as I see them. I'm feeling pretty good at this point, so I just trimmed off the excess on part 7

[tkay11]

Will you be strengthening the card with glue/CA/varnish/cellulose to avoid fraying etc?

 

Tony

[kentyler]

Rarely. The Elmer's glue does quite a lot. But basically once you sand and paint things are in pretty good shape. I take extras steps only for small or delicate parts...although lately i just make those out of wood (i'm not much of a purist :))

[kentyler]

went down a blind alley. there are no convenient 3 dimensional views in these plans and the description of the build in the book skips over all the details. i spent a long time puzzling over the keelson and finally built it with notches for the frames. it wasn't til i got it finished and ended up even more puzzled when i tried to put it into place. the penny finally dropped....the keelson goes "above" the frames. so.....starting over.

time to finish the details on the keel, since once the frames are on it will not be possible to sand it...and time to cut the rabbet, always a moment of great anxiety. i am always anxious about having things turn out perfect....it's the thing that keeps me from working on the model and lot of time. so i'm trying to be more relaxed, you know, it's only paper...if i screw up i'll just patch it

[kentyler]

in trying to finish the keel i have to deal with 2 problems, same problem at each end.

There are timbers that only show in the plans in the top view.

They reasonably look like boards that fill out the stem and stern and give the planks a little more surface to be fastened to.

but they don't show up on any illustration or side view

so i'm hoping someone can confirm my placement

[kentyler]

have not resolved that question...so i'll let it hang fire while i cut parts

first i cut out the strip from the plans that locates the frames on the keel and used it to mark the keel

then i cut out the parts for the center frame (the frames are in 2 layers)

based on the notch in the frames my keel is just a little wide.....so i cut the notches a little wider

[kentyler]

found some images from a swan class sloop log by Sturgo that help with my dilema over the bow and stern parts

[kentyler]

back to the frames

 

i had to back track. the frames are to narrow and the card to fragile to drill straight holes through 2 pieces glued together

so, i cut a new set of pieces (i did figure out that i should drill the pieces before finishing the cutting, so they would not be so slender)

and used a push pin as a center punch to start the holes

i drilled the holes and sanded down the bumps the drill made when exiting the other side of the piece

and then made some very, very slender bamboo pins

and pinned all 4 pieces of the frame together before gluing

then i glued then and clipped off the ends of the pegs

one down, upteen to go

 

[kentyler]

Staggering the bamboo pins makes it easier to assemble the pieces.

Center punching and drilling the holes causes fewer problems if it is done before cutting the frames out.

I decided I had to cut the angles on the filler pieces at stem and stern...but had no reference in the plans....so i just winged it. My feeling is that it is more likely i will cut them to thick than to thin....and they will be hard to cut or shape once all the frames are on