Le Soleil Royal by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100

[popeye2sea]

10 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Henry I continue to have your build bookmarked for quick reference. I find your rigging skill’s fascinating. Now that I have made all my yards I am researching the cleats. As you probably know Heller does not provide them. Either the one for the center of the yard nor the ends of the yard arm. Anderson is not definitive on when they came into use but it seems the SR construction was in the time frame. So like you I intend to add them to the appropriate yards. Here is where I again referred to your build. It appears in your photo that you added the cleat after painting and rigging the yard instead of before. Am I correct?  Which yards did you add the cleats too. Looking a little further into your build, I think your parrals are beautiful. Did you need to add an eyebolt at the deck and form a two block tackle to except the falls from the parrals?

The cleats are added to the yard prior to rigging. The straps inside of the cleats are selvagees (a continuous loop of rope) that is passed around the yard within the cleat before one end is inserted through the other to form the strap that takes the halliard tye. The quarter blocks for the topsail sheets are stropped with two eyes that pass around the fore and aft sides of the yard to be joined by a rose lashing atop the yard.

 

When I get to that point I will add cleats as well to the upper yards.  I believe that they are open or horn cleats as opposed to the closed cleat for the courses.

 

Yes, there will have to be determined an appropriate belaying point for the truss pendant tackle.  On my rigging plan there are two eyebolts either side of the fore mast, labelled a1 and a2 that do not appear to be used that I will repurpose for the lower block hooks. On the main there are two eyebolts designated for studdingsail halliards, that I am not using, so I will repurpose them for truss tackles. 

 

BTW, I am still not certain that the parrel falls for the upper yards came all the way to the deck.  I have read references that they terminate in the tops.  

 

Regards,

 

Henry

 

P.S. I am impressed by advances you have made in correct terminology usage in the short time since this build log started.

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Open question:  at this scale, does anyone actually rig parrels around the yardarms, or do they merely represent them on the mast?  I’m trying to figure out how to do thst with the shrouds in place.

[Bill97]

Thanks Henry. I asked about when you added your cleat because in your photo the rigging was on the yard prior to the cleat. You must have been just doing trial fitting of the rigging.  figured I better learn the nautical terminology if I planned to keep asking you guys for help. As you see in my photo I have put bow cleats on the main and fore yard as well as the both topsail yards. I also understand Anderson saying on page 57 that the cleats appear in both fashions, bow and open. I went with bow because they are stronger at the little bridge. I figured knowing my clumsy ways I would break off the little tabs if I had a space in the middle. I will check my plans for the eyebolts you referenced. 

 

Marc I rigged the parrels on my HMS Victory. Ian would not have allowed me to do otherwise. I do remember it being tricky to learn how to make them at the same time as rigging them. 
 

BTW, I know the HMS Victory was British and the Soleli Royal was French but sometimes when I am confused and can’t find an answer in Anderson’s book I will look for reference in Longridge’s book. Surely some of the basic rigging techniques were somewhat similar or at least close enough for my needs. 

Edited October 6, 2023 by Bill97

[popeye2sea]

2 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

Open question:  at this scale, does anyone actually rig parrels around the yardarms, or do they merely represent them on the mast?  I’m trying to figure out how to do thst with the shrouds in place.

I can't leave them out. And I would like to make them as functional as possible. Finding the appropriate size beads for the parrels is not easy at 1:100 scale.

 

Henry

[kirill4]

Good day,

I would like to say , it is quite a big scale to try to make them functional, at least need to make good imitation of them... yard could be attached to the mast by means of  metal wire pin, for making manipulation with parrel more convenient...

for small beads try to find japanese bisser, it has 2 times smaller beads compare to ordinary bisser beads...

Like here forcexample

https://kraftika.shop/en/what-is-toho-japanese-seed-beads-size-shape-and-color-chart/

When parral assembled, it could be attached to the mast with piece of transparent  double scotch...it will be unvisiable , but holds parrel on mast while you will be busy with parral tackles rigging... to make all pareal ropes of necessary lenght, better to use separate pattern/ imitation of mast and yard...

Edited October 6, 2023 by kirill4

[kirill4]

By the way, Ab Hoving in his works of 17th Dutch shipbuilding( ships of Abel Tasman if Im not mistaken) , in drawings of pinnas and fluete , gives very simple but looks very representative on the model, samples of parral arrangements...

Edited October 6, 2023 by kirill4

[Hubac's Historian]

That is awesome, Kirill!  Do topmast and t’gallant parrels terminate in ringbolts to the main and topmast tops?

[kirill4]

Good day, I think yes ,they do... 

But better to check what J.Budriot says in his (см. рис. 297 V.74 т. III), V.74 volume 3 drwng 297... in Ab Hoving, he shown parrals moveable, with tackles... but J.Budriot looks like describe them as fixed parrals, which couldn't be undone...as Ab Hoving shows them...

Edited October 6, 2023 by kirill4

[kirill4]

I've checked... it was not I expected to see.... :))))

I would prefer to rigg my parrals in "Dutch style" , at least as Ab Hoving shown... with tackles and other details... as it seems to me more interesting :)))

[Bill97]

Kirill4 I can’t make out the lettering in the diagram you provided a few comments back. The letters reference drawings a-f but I can only guess which letter goes with each drawing. Are the top two drawings showing one fall from the parral the fore and main topsail yards?  Below those two in the diagram with two falls are the fore and main yards?  The left is obviously the mizzen and the spritsail sling is to the right?

[Ian_Grant]

On 10/5/2023 at 9:42 PM, Bill97 said:

<snip .. snip>

 

Marc I rigged the parrels on my HMS Victory. Ian would not have allowed me to do otherwise. I do remember it being tricky to learn how to make them at the same time as rigging them.

HaHaHa!!!

[Bill97]

All of my newly made wooden yards complete with cleats in the center were appropriate and on the ends of all of them. Primed and ready for the paint booth!

[kirill4]

On 10/7/2023 at 4:11 PM, Bill97 said:

Kirill4 I can’t make out the lettering in the diagram you provided a few comments back. The letters reference drawings a-f but I can only guess which letter goes with each drawing. Are the top two drawings showing one fall from the parral the fore and main topsail yards?  Below those two in the diagram with two falls are the fore and main yards?  The left is obviously the mizzen and the spritsail sling is to the right?

 

[kirill4]

Good day Bill,

I have troubles with internet .. due to far away in the sea and issues with sattelites signal.. could You check diagrams here 

https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Gt4G/kt1TuyVop

https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Tt1K/K658Y9549

https://cloud.mail.ru/public/nBX2/3DY5VBnHL

Or even better to talk to Ab Hoving direct himself, we are very lucky still to have opportynity to directly talk to such PEOPLE directly...

#1120 -parral arrangements , everything correct, all as You said.

ps

As far as I understood from J.Budriot , french type parral - will be without tackles, some kind of fixed ones.

 

Edited October 9, 2023 by kirill4

[Bill97]

Attached the spritsail (do you call the yard the spritsail or the spritsail yard?). Made the spritsail sling just as described in Anderson’s book. Also added a few of the rigging lines. Since I reinforced the bowsprit with a wood dial, and turned new yards out of dials, all my spars are solid wood, either entirely or within the plastic. This enables me to use the old trick of drilling a small hole on both pieces at the contact point and inserting a pin with a touch of CA. This holds the yard in place while the sling, parral, and/or other initial rigging is added. The copper 22ga wire is flexible so I can manipulate the yard to the desired position without needing 6 hands!😊

You can also make out the pair of little triangle cleats I added to all the yard arms after I turned them. I used wood to make the center cleat you see in a couple posts back. For the yardarm cleats I cut tiny triangles of the appropriate width Evergreen and set them in from the end with CA glue before painting. 

Edited October 10, 2023 by Bill97

[popeye2sea]

The spritsail yard looks great.

 

Regards,

 

Henry

[Bill97]

Thanks Henry. I really appreciate it. 

[Bill97]

Top sprit yard installed and rigged. There surprisingly is a lot of rigging to that little yard!  Still studying to determine the exact belay points for the halyards for it and the spritsail yard. One instruction I have shows the lines going through the holes in the bowsprit halyard guide then up to the rail. Another instruction has them going directly to the rail or tie off to the gammoning. 
 

 

[popeye2sea]

12 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Top sprit yard installed and rigged. There surprisingly is a lot of rigging to that little yard!  Still studying to determine the exact belay points for the halyards for it and the spritsail yard. One instruction I have shows the lines going through the holes in the bowsprit halyard guide then up to the rail. Another instruction has them going directly to the rail or tie off to the gammoning. 

Take them through the saddle fairlead. That is it's intended purpose. Other parts of the running rigging for the spritsail and spritsail topsail will go through the rack block on the gammoning.

 

Regards,

 

Henry

[Bill97]

Henry in my first photo you see the line that goes through the block attached to the center of the sprit yard then through the block under the platform and down alongside the bowsprit. The rigging path ends with it being tied to the gammoning. I have two Heller instruction versions. An older version has it going through a hole in the saddle and then to the gammoning. The version that came with the kit has a different line going through that particular hole and indicates the line in question does not pass through the saddle but instead goes directly to the gammoning. Can you make a definitive conclusion for how that line completes its run?  Also for the lines that go up to the beakhead rail I see some belay to the rail while others belay to the knightheads lined up along the rail?

[Bill97]

Henry after much study I believe I have the rigging correct. The old 1970’s version of the rope routes and belay points was better to follow than the new one that has a few discrepancies, I think. I am at a decision point as to where to go from here?  I imagine I will need to lean the model over a bit, both starboard and port, when I add the cannon hatch covers. I somewhat expect with the yards attached, especially the fore and main, tipping the model could be awkward. So I can’t decide if I should go ahead and put on the hatch covers before I move on to the yards?  

Edited October 11, 2023 by Bill97

[popeye2sea]

Not sure if my rigging plan compares to yours but here is what mine shows for lines leading through the saddle.

Saddle port side top to bottom. duplicate on starboard side except 1011

1011  Fore topmast stay tackle

1018  Spritsail brace

1098  Fore sail bowline

1088  Spritsail clew line

 

Rack Block ( on gammoning) port side top to bottom

1023  Spritsail yard lift/spritsail topsail sheet

1020  Spritsail topsail brace

1096  Fore topsail bowline

1094  Fore topgallant bowline

1085  Spritsail topsail clew line

 

There may be additional lines run through there but I would have to do a more complete search of the plan.

 

Hope that helps

 

Regards,

Henry

 

 

[popeye2sea]

BTW, I made a spreadsheet of all of the rigging plan, calling out all of the blocks and fittings needed. It helped me greatly to figure out how the rigging runs and what blocks to put where.  I can more easily search the spreadsheet for a particular line than try and follow it through multiple pages of the Heller instruction booklet.

 

Regards,

Henry

[Bill97]

Thanks Henry. I believe what I have rigged so far matches what you have. More lines to be run later!  It is crazy flipping back and forth between 3-4 pages! 😊

 

In the meantime I have decided to go with cannon hatch covers next. The method I am using to install them allows them to be flexible so I should not have a problem breaking them off. Did an extensive modification of the kit hatch covers. I added a layer of Evergreen to the inside to better reflect the hull thickness. I cut them lined down the face of the Evergreen to resemble wood planks. Painted the interior side red and added a gold fluer-de-leis face up when hatch is open. On the face side I painted the hinges and added two eyebolts to except the hatch lanyards. To attach to the hull I drilled the top and added two copper wires with a touch of CA. To attach I will drill matching holes in the inside edge of the hatch and insert the wires again using CA. The wire will permit the covers to be positioned just as an actual hinge would. Bottom deck on port side completed except for lashing the lanyards. Still need a little paint touch up around a few hatches. 

Edited October 11, 2023 by Bill97

[Ian_Grant]

Looking really great, Bill.  Bow is already looking intricate with some of the head rigging done. Gunport lids really nice too. Nice work!

[Bill97]

Thanks Ian. I will always say your help and guidance on the Victory has been my foundation for this build. Am I correct that you have the Heller Soleli Royal in your stash for a future build? Will be anxious to see what you do with it. 

Edited October 11, 2023 by Bill97

[Ian_Grant]

26 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Thanks Ian. I will always say your help and guidance on the Victory has been my foundation for this build. Am I correct that you have the Heller Soleli Royal in your stash for a future build? Will be anxious to see what you do with it. 

Yes, I have an SR in my stash. I was going to build it after the "Preussen" but that build stalled when I became distracted for the past two years by my Radio-Controlled Roman Galley; designing and refining an oar drive mechanism, writing Arduino software for it, and for the past six months designing and building the hull, culminating in "sea trials" where I had it rowing around our pool. Now that I know it works I am starting to complete and pretty-up the hull. I can even laser-etch decking boards using our library's laser cutter, and the more I use it the more possibilities open up before me .... it's an amazing machine!

 

Will also be using the library's 3D printer to print a ram for the bow, once I draw it in CAD.

[Bill97]

Wow Ian would love to see photos of your Galley. It really sounds pretty cool!

[Ian_Grant]

2 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Wow Ian would love to see photos of your Galley. It really sounds pretty cool!

There are several videos in my rather long build log; those at the start showing the process of refining the oar mechanism and writing software for it, while the last two or three are sea trials in the pool. Now I am satisfied it will work I am working on finishing, painting, and decorating the hull.

 

Below is the build log. I got through about 5 pages before even starting to build a ship. 😊🙄

 

The most recent video is here:

 

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by Ian_Grant

[Bill97]

As I am working on the cannon hatch covers I am noticing that I like the way the covers look closed as well as open with cannon forward. I am curious if there would be an authentic way that in actuality would have had some covers open and some closed?  I am interested in the same side of the ship. I always have my preconceived display side. As you have seen I already have the cover’s installed on the port side lower deck in the open position. If I wanted to display some of the hatches on the next deck up (but not all) closed, what might have been an actual situation?  A few on each end closed and those in the middle open, or the opposite of that?  An alternating hatch cover open/closed display? What do you guys think. Of course any I decide to close now will require the removal of the cannon barrel.