TITANIC by Force9 – Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC - White Star Liner

[Force9]

The Forward Well Deck 

 

The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.

 

There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 

 

Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.

 

We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.

 

Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.

 

The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.

 

I hate ‘em. 

 

I’ve got to solve for this.

 

I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:

This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.

 

This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.

All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.

 

The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:

Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:

Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.

 

This is fun - stay tuned.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Edited November 14 by Force9

[Force9]

 

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)

 

Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.

 

I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.

 

The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.

 

I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Edited November 23 by Force9

[Jeff59]

Love the dedication to this, can see this build is going to be running for a while 😂 brilliant.

[Force9]

Aye @Jeff59...

 

I'll be at this for a while.  Should be able to bump up my progress over the holidays.

 

(Looks like you've taken on quite a bit in your Bismarck build... You've gutted her!)

 

Cheers

Evan

Edited Tuesday at 11:33 PM by Force9

[Force9]

 

Fo’c’sle Railing Detail

 

Before proceeding I need to attend to another detail up forward… 

 

Around the Fo’c’sle there should be a lip that extends above the deck.  It serves as a wash plate and supports the base of the railings.  This is not accounted for in our kit, but I think KA or Pontos includes a solution in their photo etch offering.

 

We can see it in the detail of the Father Browne photo referenced earlier:

First, I’ll file down a bit of the existing edge of the Trumpeter kit -just down to the existing coping strip.  This will allow the new strip to be seated down a bit to be even with the deck.

Next, I’ll chisel away the kit coping strip.  This'll be added back later:

Everything is now prepped to add a strip of angle styrene:

I’ll extend it the length of the Fo’c’sle for now… I’ll eventually need to trim it back to allow for the details that affix to the very front of the bow.

 

Lastly, I’ll need to add the new coping strip to the very top outer edge of the angle strip. This should all align a bit better to the actual ship than what Trumpeter has in place.

 

Cheers,

Evan

Edited Tuesday at 11:32 PM by Force9

[Jeff59]

All this hull plating must be driving you nuts 😂 not to mention the strain on your eyes. A really exceptional model indeed. I just know this is going to be very special.👌

[md1400cs]

Exceptional work - very much enjoying following your log