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Placement of Trennails or bolts in Standards/Bollards


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This might be a fairly obscure question, but regarding a photo from tlevine's Swallow log below...    Are "fasteners" to be inserted ONLY on the bottom portion (see arrows) of the standards?  I'm close to attaching similar components on my 1492 caravel (bottom photo), and am not sure of how I should reflect the fasteners; for that matter, I'm not sure if they should be trennails, or raised nails.    Any guidance on this would really be appreciated.  I do know that the standards are currently too thick, so will be adjusting that, but I'm really wondering about the fasteners. Initially, I was thinking that I'd apply fasteners to the upper sections as well, but now I'm assuming that tlevine's fastener's are correct, and that I'd I'd install two of them, both on the bottom section of the standards, but wanted to pick the collective brain of MSW on this one. - Alan

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Edited by knightyo
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Alan

As iron nuts and bolts came into use circa middle 1400s it is possible they would have been used on a carrack of 1492.  Normally for the riding bitts that you show, the after face of the pins was scored to receive the cross beam and the standards were on the forward side.   The crosspiece fasteners were commonly iron clench bolts, but 2 1/2" diameter trennals were sometimes on British ships.

Hopefully the sketch below, based on drawings by Peter Goodwin,  will help.

Allan

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Thank you Allan,  that was exceptionally helpful, and explains why there were only bolts shown on the bottom parts of the standards on tlevine's work.  I might do two bolts on the bottoms of the standards, and trennels on the tops.  Below is what I'm approximating, (working replica of Pinta), but it's hard to tell how they were constructed there. I don't see any bolt protrusions, but for this working replica, they might not have been trying to replicate the original to that degree.  Or, they were, and trennals are just the way to go all around.  Decisions..

 

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Alan

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I can imagine that instead of a raised iron bolt head,  because of rusting,  the bolt would be counter sunk, then a packing of waterproofing gunk, then a wooden plug.  The plug grain oriented with the standard grain, so that only an outline would be visible and if painted, that detail hidden by the paint?

As far as authenticity - nothing may be closer to the mark?

As far as modelers convention - a trunnel - if belt and suspenders is your want -  or a brass or copper pin for show.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
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Other

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3 hours ago, Jaager said:

I can imagine that instead of a raised iron bolt head,  because of rusting,  the bolt would be counter sunk, then a packing of waterproofing gunk, then a wooden plug.  The plug grain oriented with the standard grain, so that only an outline would be visible and if painted, that detail hidden by the paint?

As far as authenticity - nothing may be closer to the mark?

As far as modelers convention - a trunnel - if belt and suspenders is your want -  or a brass or copper pin for show.

I think you might have hit the nail on the head with that summary (I couldn't resist).  I'll bet that's exactly what we are seeing on the replica Pinta as well.  

Edited by knightyo
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