HMS Terror by jbcallender - OcCre - 1:75

[RossR]

I assume the material is the 0.6mm planking.   For that material I would use contact cement.   I would worry that the edges of the material might curl up before PVA set.  
 

I am not sure if Occre has instruction videos for your model, but if the don’t find the ones for the HMS Beagle for a demonstration on how to use it.   I have used it a couple times and had no issues with it being messy.   
 

my build log for the Frigate Dianna has photos of the process used on the deck planks.    
 

[Geowolf]

17 hours ago, jbcallender said:

OK, a questioon for everyone.  What glue did you use for the second planking?  I saw the post about not liking the contaft cement, so I pu one plank on the bulwarks with CA glue.  I am grossly unsatisfied with the result and basically created a days worth of work removing the plank.  I used a medium CA, but there is so much bleed through and soak, it's not acceptable.  So is it titebond or contact cement?

 

White glue will really add time to the planking, but increases adjustment time.  I am afraid with contact cement, I am going to get it on everything.

 

hi jbcallender, for second layer i'm using the same wood glue, it needs more time to fix it but you can move & adjust the position a few seconds. I use a spare piece of wood to leave a very thin layer of glue in the plank and avoid spare glue, because the spare glue can damage and stain the wood.

 

My problem with the second layer is the planks cannot admit a minimal deviation from his own natural curvature, so if you wants to fix in a non natural bend they are leaving gaps between it; this problem is in the bow and the stern where the planks must to be forced to accomodate the curvature of the hull. My recommendation is to test each plank in the hull and fix it avoiding gaps if it's possible, because you'll not have a lot of wood to sand later.

 

sorry for my english language, each day is worse hehehe

 

regards,

 

 

[jbcallender]

While I work up the courage to re-start the second planking, I installed two of three sets of "steel" plates at the keel joins - not nearly as good as  DanielD's, and I give him credit for the idea, but I like the look nonetheless.  My Terror is turning out to be a well-used version.  

Edited May 16, 2023 by jbcallender

[jbcallender]

13 hours ago, Geowolf said:

 

hi jbcallender, for second layer i'm using the same wood glue, it needs more time to fix it but you can move & adjust the position a few seconds. I use a spare piece of wood to leave a very thin layer of glue in the plank and avoid spare glue, because the spare glue can damage and stain the wood.

 

My problem with the second layer is the planks cannot admit a minimal deviation from his own natural curvature, so if you wants to fix in a non natural bend they are leaving gaps between it; this problem is in the bow and the stern where the planks must to be forced to accomodate the curvature of the hull. My recommendation is to test each plank in the hull and fix it avoiding gaps if it's possible, because you'll not have a lot of wood to sand later.

 

sorry for my english language, each day is worse hehehe

 

regards,

 

 

Muchos gracias, senor.  Espanol es lo mismo tambien.

[jbcallender]

On 5/14/2023 at 2:58 PM, RossR said:

I assume the material is the 0.6mm planking.   For that material I would use contact cement.   I would worry that the edges of the material might curl up before PVA set.  
 

I am not sure if Occre has instruction videos for your model, but if the don’t find the ones for the HMS Beagle for a demonstration on how to use it.   I have used it a couple times and had no issues with it being messy.   
 

my build log for the Frigate Dianna has photos of the process used on the deck planks.    
 

OcCre has a video and there are several others available as well.  i removed the plank I did with CA and repaired the damage, so I am working up to a do-over.  I don't want to wreck my ice channnels.  They turned out fairly decent and that was a lot of work.  Thatnks for all the input from all of you!

Edited May 16, 2023 by jbcallender

[jbcallender]

I haven't posted in a while and I'll post some pictures over the weekend.  I have finished the second planking and am doing the cleanup of it.  I'm really disappointed in the contact glue method.  I have rubber (for lack of a better term) boogers all over and I'm having the devil getting rid of them.  I tried acetone to some grudging success.  Just have to keep at it.  I am consolong myself by remembering that it will be painted and at least the metal plating will cover some of it.  I tried using titebond, didn't really like that.  I liked the grab and hold qualities of the contact cement, but didn't count on the aftermath.  I caused myself some additional headache by gluing the ice channels to the first plankking and then second planking around them.  And I should have planked the transom first.  Now I know for the next build.  I guess you have days where you just go "yuk, that didn't turn out like I wanted".  

[allanyed]

5 hours ago, jbcallender said:

I'm really disappointed in the contact glue method. 

I hope you do not have additional problems down the road.   From doing a little research it SEEMS rubber contact cement is not highly recommended for anything permanent.  One of many comments that I read   --- Over time, rubber cement loses its "stickiness." Items bonded with rubber cement will gradually just "let go" of each other. The adhesive does not simply evaporate; rather, it dries out and leaves a brittle residue where the pieces come apart.   

 

Allan

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  'Have to agree with Allan, in that rubber cement just won't stand the 'test of time'.  Sure, it can be an immediate shortcut ... but in a decade or two things glued with it can de-bond.  'Can't recon why OcCre would promote this method, other than for ease of build.  With luck, horizontal surfaces will have gravity to keep them in place - as well as other stuff put on top like deck houses, fife rails (which should be well-pinned to thicker substrate previously glued underneath ... they don't tell you that), stanchions/bulwarks, a forecastle, etc.  As for the hull, pre-bent planks just being fixed in position with contact cement that will be painted over may get 'reinforced' in shape by a coat or two of over painting.  Additional items pinned or otherwise affixed over exterior planking (like channels & chainplate) can also act as bracing.

[jbcallender]

Spoiler

 

Slowly but surely getting the second planking sanded and the rubber crumbs dealt with.  Will use a bit of filling here and there.  Have a few small chips and splits at seams and edges.  Will post some pictures after that.  Fortunately it all gets painted and the bow covered with plating.  Then finish the rudder and the associated gudgeons.

Edited June 28, 2023 by jbcallender

[jbcallender]

Have finally got some consistent time to do some work.  I was able to get almost all of the contact cement boogers off.  I've filled and sanded a few more areas to where I think it was needed.  I installed the hawse grommets on both sides of the bulwark. I had to raise them about  a millimeter.  I used burnished grommets, but could only find ones slightly larger than the ones supplied.  I'm ready to do Capt. Croziers cabin windows, a coat or two of poly and then start on the steel planking.  Some areas I wish I could do over, but as I said, this is a 60 year old lady nearing the end of her service to the Crown.