Endurance by theoracle09 - OcCre - 1:70

[iMustBeCrazy]

Well, I've had to make a few edits to post #35, my brain kept confusing the two doors shown inside the 'ritz'. I'm probably still wrong and I can't really guess at the 'mud room' and 'pantry' beside the galley, but I think the 'ritz' was something like this:

[clearway]

this is from the plans for Polaris showing the skylight, galley, pantry and staircase to below decks

I suspect some of the crew shots might be from below decks as there are wooden pillars supp0rting the deck beams above which you cant see in the original photo of the ritz? Also in colder weather/ winter the Ritz was abandoned till the spring.

 

Keith

[theoracle09]

On 8/26/2023 at 9:49 AM, theoracle09 said:

Building the railings on a separate board is definitely the way to go! I'm sure I picked up the hint from a log on here, and I apologize I don't remember who said it. But either way it worked very well, and is how I'll do the remaining rails when it comes time (if it's feasible to do so.) It took longer to drill the holes (making sure they were precisely aligned with the marks) than it did actually transferring it over.

 

The rails maintained their shape and the paint acted as a glue, as long as I was careful. Tweezers and magnification helped be gentle, and having the drilled holes 0.86mm (stanchions are 0.85mm) helped to hold them in place. I could then slide each one up and apply the tiniest drop of wood glue, then push them down and clean up the squeeze out with a micro applicator.

 

I've viewed some brass soldering tutorials and have a better idea of how to tackle the railings in the future. I'm also going to re-try the ladders with what I've learned. The point is, touch up was needed because the railings shifted ~0.6mm in some spots. Even just soldering (or gluing) the corners would probably have helped, but honestly, touch up paint took 10 mins or less so it wasn't a big deal.

 

And here we are. I'm extremely proud of how straight everything is. I was a bit worried about bending it and keeping the stanchions straight up and down, but it really wasn't that bad.

 

Well, dang. Here's another example of poor planning. I was so focused on getting the stanchions correct I forgot about the gangways. Now I need to ponder what to do about it. I could leave it, and not have gangways at all. But I really like the detail, so I'd have to think a while on that. Otherwise I imagine the entire run will need to be removed, because there are bends in the two aft corners. The 3 stanchions between the corners are in the wrong position (with the middle one being useless entirely). This means holes in the deck which would need to be filled, then new spacing established and holes drilled.

 

Or I could just leave it. Does anyone have an opinion on what to do?

 

Edit: Looks like I got lucky here. The distance between the corner stanchion and the next one is the exact width of the gangways anyway. All I need to do is cut the wire out, but all the stanchions can stay where they are.

Edited August 27, 2023 by theoracle09

[iMustBeCrazy]

51 minutes ago, clearway said:

I suspect some of the crew shots might be from below decks as there are wooden pillars supp0rting the deck beams above which you cant see in the original photo of the ritz? Also in colder weather/ winter the Ritz was abandoned till the spring.

Well, that's thrown the cat amongst the worms!

 

1 hour ago, clearway said:

Also in colder weather/ winter the Ritz was abandoned till the spring.

By any chance, was the main hold used as the dining room during winter? That might explain it. No, I don't think that works either. Then again, maybe.

 

I assumed the pillars were to strengthen the bridge deck but I had/have a niggling suspicion the the beams aren't really 'ritz' quality. So perhaps they did duplicate the 'ritz' layout in the hold. I'm so confused.

 

This shot shows a glimpse through to what I have been thinking is the galley but now I realise we should see a dirty great big stove if that was the case. Perhaps it's a servery below the galley?

 

 

It doesn't appear to be the Officers cabins as the 'servery' would be either the Captains cabin or one of the other cabins and the door would be wrong.

 

The door and the wall it's attached to are better quality than the partitions down the sides and are probably original. Could be the main hold/lower deck, bottom of the stairs.

 

Sorry, rambling. So many worms.

 

 

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

50 minutes ago, theoracle09 said:

All I need to do is cut the wire out, but all the stanchions can stay where they are.

See post #47, the rails were quite crudely cut on the starboard side but reasonably neat on the port side.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

Think thrice, measure twice, then cut once.

 

[theoracle09]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Well, that's thrown the cat amongst the worms!

 

By any chance, was the main hold used as the dining room during winter? That might explain it. No, I don't think that works either. Then again, maybe.

 

I assumed the pillars were to strengthen the bridge deck but I had/have a niggling suspicion the the beams aren't really 'ritz' quality. So perhaps they did duplicate the 'ritz' layout in the hold. I'm so confused.

 

This shot shows a glimpse through to what I have been thinking is the galley but now I realise we should see a dirty great big stove if that was the case. Perhaps it's a servery below the galley?

 

 

It doesn't appear to be the Officers cabins as the 'servery' would be either the Captains cabin or one of the other cabins and the door would be wrong.

 

The door and the wall it's attached to are better quality than the partitions down the sides and are probably original. Could be the main hold/lower deck, bottom of the stairs.

 

Sorry, rambling. So many worms.

 

 

 

 

I'd say that pic accurately shows the ritz. Take a look at this passage from "South":

 

“The quarters in the ‘tween decks were completed by the 10th, and the men took possession of the cubicles that had been built. The largest cubicle contained Macklin, McIlroy, Hurley, and Hussey and it was named ‘The Billabong.’ Clark and Wordie lived opposite in a room called ‘Auld Reekie.’ Next came the abode of ‘The Nuts’ or engineers, followed by ‘The Sailors; Rest,’ inhabited by Cheetham and McNeish, ‘The Anchorage’ and ‘The Fumarole’ were on the other side. The new quarters became known as ‘The Ritz,’ and meals were served there instead of in the wardroom. Breakfast was at 9 a.m., lunch at 1 p.m., tea at 4 p.m., and dinner at 6 p.m. Wild, Marston, Crean, and Worsley established themselves in cubicles in the wardroom, and by the middle of the month all hands had settled down to the winter routine.

“I lived alone aft.”

 

 

 

Copied from this website.

[iMustBeCrazy]

1 hour ago, theoracle09 said:

“The quarters in the ‘tween decks ................. The new quarters became known as ‘The Ritz,’ and meals were served there instead of in the wardroom.

More worms

 

'tween decks would imply to me 'on the lower deck' (between the main and lower decks), and then 'the wardroom' would be the officers mess on the main deck (under the bridge), heretofore the 'ritz'.

 

So perhaps something like this (I know it's not going to be correct):

 

With the wardroom / officers mess / dining saloon on the main deck untouched.

Oops Wild, Marston, Crean, and Worsley established themselves in cubicles in the wardroom

Edited August 28, 2023 by iMustBeCrazy

[clearway]

also in the pic is a insulated steam pipe so i think it is below the ritz in the old crews quarters

regards railings it will be best to redo the aftermost ones as it will niggle at  your sub conscience (been there)!

 

Keith

[iMustBeCrazy]

29 minutes ago, clearway said:

so i think it is below the ritz in the old crews quarters

The problem is the 'ritz' seems to be below the 'ritz'. Perhaps we need to think of the wardroom / officers mess / dining saloon as the penthouse

 

 

[theoracle09]

Yeah I'm just going to call the structure on the quarterdeck a deckhouse at this point, as it does appear the Ritz was a different part of the ship.

 

I finished the officer's quarter's portholes. Both sides were drilled out to 1/4" using a forstner bit. I also faired the hull, a step I absolutely loathe for some reason. A bastard file took care of it rather quickly, but I still dislike doing the procedure for some reason.

 

Bulwarks also installed on both sides.

The ply that goes around the bow gave me no issues on the port side. I found when planking the Newport water isn't needed to bend the planks, just a hair dryer. I get it nice and hot (only takes 30 secs or so) and then put the piece where it needs to go and bend it slowly. I clamp it, dry, to cool down for 5 mins or so. Then I take it off and glue it. The port side went on just fine, however the starboard side is stubborn and broke when I glanced at it. It's currently being glued in multiple pieces.

The bulwarks have been lined from fore to aft horizontally (not called for in plans) and the stanchions installed. Once I get the inner bow bulwarks installed (it needs a 5x2mm installed against the ply, then cut to shape) I'll paint both bow bits and the lining on the quarterdeck/bulwarks white.

 

Thanks for looking!

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Super job to date - especially pre-lining the bulwarks with thin planking ... another opportunity seized.

 

[Jorez de Saint Nazaire]

4 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

Yeah I'm just going to call the structure on the quarterdeck a deckhouse at this point, as it does appear the Ritz was a different part of the ship.

 

I finished the officer's quarter's portholes. Both sides were drilled out to 1/4" using a forstner bit. I also faired the hull, a step I absolutely loathe for some reason. A bastard file took care of it rather quickly, but I still dislike doing the procedure for some reason.

 

Bulwarks also installed on both sides.

The ply that goes around the bow gave me no issues on the port side. I found when planking the Newport water isn't needed to bend the planks, just a hair dryer. I get it nice and hot (only takes 30 secs or so) and then put the piece where it needs to go and bend it slowly. I clamp it, dry, to cool down for 5 mins or so. Then I take it off and glue it. The port side went on just fine, however the starboard side is stubborn and broke when I glanced at it. It's currently being glued in multiple pieces.

The bulwarks have been lined from fore to aft horizontally (not called for in plans) and the stanchions installed. Once I get the inner bow bulwarks installed (it needs a 5x2mm installed against the ply, then cut to shape) I'll paint both bow bits and the lining on the quarterdeck/bulwarks white.

 

Thanks for looking!

Hi,

 

The planking of the deck is vey nice and realistic, Bravo ! you really improve the model

[iMustBeCrazy]

5 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

Yeah I'm just going to call the structure on the quarterdeck a deckhouse at this point, as it does appear the Ritz was a different part of the ship.

Sounds good.

 

On 8/14/2023 at 6:00 AM, theoracle09 said:

Additionally, I'm not convinced the hatch pictured in both images is over the ritz. It looks more to me the bridge was enclosed to the bulwarks, so the quarterdeck was completely enclosed. The hatch pictured would then lead to the skylight on the quarterdeck between the aft bulkhead and the aft wall of the ritz. Here's my interpretation of the above two pics:

 

I've now come to pretty much the same conclusion although I think it was further forward (between the deckhouse and the beam). When they decked over the gap they would have fitted a hatch to access the hold with the crane, later they built a companionway on the hatch (or so I think).

 

And it's way past time that I said - Nice work!

Edited August 28, 2023 by iMustBeCrazy

[theoracle09]

6 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Super job to date - especially pre-lining the bulwarks with thin planking ... another opportunity seized.

 

Thanks Johnny! All ideas I've garnered from others' logs, which I very much appreciate!

 

4 hours ago, Jorez de Saint Nazaire said:

Hi,

 

The planking of the deck is vey nice and realistic, Bravo ! you really improve the model

Hi Jorez, thank you! Your Endurance model is beautiful, and is a source of motivation and inspiration!

 

2 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Sounds good.

 

 

I've now come to pretty much the same conclusion although I think it was further forward (between the deckhouse and the beam). When they decked over the gap they would have fitted a hatch to access the hold with the crane, later they built a companionway on the hatch (or so I think).

 

And it's way past time that I said - Nice work!

Thanks Craig! Indeed I do agree with you. I always wondered what that hook was on the prototype model, hooked on to the railing. Until you said crane just then, it never occurred to me that's what the boom is. It's so funny, I've looked over pictures for hours pondering different aspects, and never knew there was an actual crane until now haha.

 

Work continues, steadily marching towards full time planking. The 3 planks below the officer's quarter portholes are now installed.

 

In between waiting for glue to dry I masked off the quarterdeck for painting.

 

I hand-painted the space between two stanchions and promptly said "nope" and masked the entire rest of the deck for airbrushing. It would have taken entirely too long as it would've needed more than several layers to hide brush strokes. The airbrush made short work of it and it's nice and even. I chamfered the edge of every plank on the bulwarks so after sanding and painting I'd still have lines.

Now the interior planking of the bow with the supplied 5x2mm was frustrating. I'm not sure what's going on with the timber, but it didn't matter what I did to it as soon as it started bending it snapped. I used heat, soaked and then used heat, soaked for even longer, didn't use heat, etc. So I grabbed some 1.8x5mm mahogany and made it work.

 

Finally I have a 4th plank now installed.

 

Thanks for reading!

 

[Tomculb]

Theo. . . (or whatever name you prefer)

 

I am in awe of the work you have done while I’ve been largely absent from my shipyard.  I am delighted you found some use for some of my thoughts and ideas. I have gotten so much out of these boards and the contributions of others, far more than I have contributed, but it’s nice to know I’ve contributed a little. I still haven’t caught up with all the posts on your log, but I’m getting there.

 

Maybe I missed this in your log, but where did you find the stanchions you used to replace those supplied by OcCre? 

 

I am close to finishing the rough planking of the hull, but you’re way ahead of me on other parts of the ship, and it won’t be long before I’m using your innovations and ideas.  Keep up the good work.

 

PS . . . I see you’re a fellow Washingtonian, but on the opposite side of the state. We’re fortunately more than a dozen miles or so from what was the worst of the fires, but we’ve been buried in smoke. Raining today, which is good.

[theoracle09]

Thanks Tom, I appreciate you stopping by! Your words are very kind, thank you. I may not have a large post count, but I have actually been around long enough (off and on) to know about MSW 1.0, including having a portion of my San Fran log fall victim to it as well. The point is, I keep coming back to this site because of everyone's contributions and it motivates me to maintain a detailed log for others who build the Endurance as well.

 

The stanchions are 10mm 2-ball from Ages of Sail, you can find a link to their stanchion page here. They're based in California, so it took about a week from placing the order to receiving it. The kit stanchions are 12mm, and I decided 2mm won't be visible to the lay-viewer. As for the 1-ball, I purchased the 15mm size and am planning on cutting them down to 10mm to match the 2-ball stanchions.

 

1 hour ago, Tomculb said:

We’re fortunately more than a dozen miles or so from what was the worst of the fires, but we’ve been buried in smoke. Raining today, which is good.

That's good to hear! We've been keeping an eye on it over the last week or so and was glad to see it being contained. We had smoke over the weekend but nothing as bad as on your side.

[Tomculb]

Josh, I don't know how the heck I overlooked your name, in your signature block of all places!  And thanks for the info on where to find stanchions.

Tom

[theoracle09]

Just now, Tomculb said:

Josh, I don't know how the heck I overlooked your name, in your signature block of all places!  And thanks for the info on where to find stanchions.

Tom

Oh no you're fine! I actually updated it after your post! You were right, it wasn't there before 🙂

 

Small update: The plans call for a simplified planking where you just slap planks down and when you need wedges, put them in. Since this is going to be double planked, it makes sense to expedite the process because it'll just be covered up. I don't really like doing it this way so even though it's going to be covered, I'm going to take the opportunity to practice planking the hull "the right way" by lining it out, doing some math, then spending time shaping each plank. Here is where my posts will slow down. I originally was going to use titebond for each plank and just wait for it to dry, probably overnight. I'm seeing where more and more folks are using CA now for the planks, only if the plank is prepared and pre-bent correctly.

 

I'll be following Chuck's method, outlined in videos located at this link. If the planks don't have any tension in them, CA should be fine to use and it'll last. However, if you rely on the glue to bend the planks and hold them down, the glue will deteriorate over time and you could find the planks spring away from their bulkheads years and years from now. If the planks don't have any tension in them, this shouldn't be a problem.

[theoracle09]

After a long and confusing battle with lining off the hull, planking is officially underway. I thought I'd be smart and didn't need to segment the hull (the very first step) which resulted in hours of lost time. My segmenting ideas didn't work, so instead of reinventing the wheel I followed the lining-off PDFs and things went much smoother.

 

Speaking of smooth, the 3rd bulkhead in from the stern required shimming. I didn't notice this because I clearly didn't pay attention to it when I was fairing the hull. As mentioned previously I hate fairing the hull, it's the worst step for me mentally for some reason in the entire model building process. I used a batten to make sure it was faired, which it is, save for that bulkhead. I used 0.6x5mm planks meant for the decks to increase the bulkhead size.

 

The frame required 3 strips on each side. If I didn't add the strips, one could sand the surrounding bulkheads to match, and we all know I hate that step so I opted to build it out.

 

I won't get in to the lining of the hull and all the dumb stuff I tried. It didn't work, so I did it exactly how it's supposed to be done and made 4 bands. I'm going to do a band at a time, on each side, so the hull builds up on both sides.

 

There are 4 planks on each side towards the stern I fitted and glued, and then a single plank running the entire length of the ship. This gave me a base to create the bands. In each band, I'll determine how many planks can fit at midship and base the current working band's measurements off of that as I go along.

 

After installing planks on the port side I needed a stealer (or is it a drop plank? I'm not sure the difference) so here's a pic showing how that determination is made.

 

I'm used to using 1.8mm thick timber for hull planking, and the supplied planks are 2mm. That 0.2mm really makes a considerable difference when bending these planks. It seems more difficult and frustrating. I picked up a new micro-hand plane and holy moly, it makes the job of tapering a cake walk. This little thing is straight up hand-held magic!

 

Now I just need 1 more plank to finish out the first of 4 bands on the port side.

In the above pic, you can see my mistake. Before installed the top two planks, the third one from the top split just a bit on that first bulkhead after the stem. I tried to sand it out (which worked) but the angle needed to be better as I also took some of the top edge off of plank #3 from the bottom. That's where the chine effect is coming from, but with the planks so thick (2mm) it'll be easy to correct once sanded.

And here we are, 5 planks on the port side, 1 plank on the starboard side (plus the 4 on each side aft of the bulwarks. You can see the chine effect even more pronounced in that last pic. It's because I was beveling the wrong edge for all but the top 2 planks. But hey, lesson learned, and I'm excited to keep going because I think I've now "figured it out".

 

Thanks for reading!

 

[Tomculb]

Thanks Josh for letting me know I'm not as oblivious as I thought I was. 😁

 

Last night I finished planking the hull. I'll get some photos and a post on my log within the next few days.  I'm hoping to leave it at one layer of planks, using a lot of sanding, filler and paint to hide all the blemishes.  Regarding glue, I've always used carpenter's wood glue almost exclusively. I have often used a moderate amount of pressure (along with some water & heat induced bending) to hold pieces in place while the glue dries, and I've never had a plank spring loose. My oldest such hull is 30+ years.  At least that's what has worked for me.    

[theoracle09]

27 minutes ago, Tomculb said:

Thanks Josh for letting me know I'm not as oblivious as I thought I was. 😁

 

Last night I finished planking the hull. I'll get some photos and a post on my log within the next few days.  I'm hoping to leave it at one layer of planks, using a lot of sanding, filler and paint to hide all the blemishes.  Regarding glue, I've always used carpenter's wood glue almost exclusively. I have often used a moderate amount of pressure (along with some water & heat induced bending) to hold pieces in place while the glue dries, and I've never had a plank spring loose. My oldest such hull is 30+ years.  At least that's what has worked for me.    

Awesome to hear it's finished! I look forward to seeing it in the next few days.

 

My plan was to use titebond for everything on this ship, but after seeing Chuck's videos and how fast the hull gets planked using CA I started using it. I'll switch back to titebond after planking is done. And actually, the CA is holding it all together at the moment, but once the hull starts closing up I'll go into the inside and spread around wood glue across the planks/bulkheads and in the corners to really hold everything.

[theoracle09]

Somebody's watching me ... 👀

 

Hi folks, planking is just about halfway done, maybe 45% or so. Two bands on each side are complete, which leaves the final two bands and the upper bow to finish off. The next move is to clean up the keel slot at the bow and start looking at where the anchor holes are located. In the pics you can see some tape holding string and a small washer, this is tied off through the bulkhead to another washer under the anchor deck. I'll use it to fish the anchor chains to where they need to go when it's time, but the string needs to go through the hull before it's closed up.

 

I didn't really start comparing each side at the bow until 3/4 up, and it shows. I had to purposely make two of them different sizes to get back on track. As I mentioned, this is supposed to be planked over with a second layer, so I'm using it as an opportunity to practice. I enjoy it, so why not. However, I'm extremely pleased with how this is going so far, I may not plank it again. My only concern is the stern. The kit has me building a bread and butter shim object out of ply, which gets planked over. Even with filler and paint, I know from my Newport build even when I think it's smooth, primer and paint will still show the timber below. Perhaps it's my impatience, so if I were to spend more time on filling and sanding the transition between hull and bread and butter ply, I could make it work.

 

I was able to mirror the stealer on the other side nicely, although I didn't do the best of jobs trimming one of the planks it connects to (starboard side). I mixed up some saw dust and wood glue and spackled it in some spots just to cover the real heinous crimes. After a couple of hours the entire stern got sanded to 240 just so I have less sanding to do later. I stayed away from the bow and the last plank this time.

 

So, to second plank or not. Either way, the stern needs built up and I have balsa I can use instead of the ply formers which I might look at. I believe I've seen mentioned they go a very particular way so I'll be sure to pay attention to that. Once it's done and sanded I'll have a better idea if I can get it to smooth out under paint, or if it'll need the second planking.

 

Thanks for coming in!

Edited September 1, 2023 by theoracle09

[Jorez de Saint Nazaire]

Hi,

 

At this stage it could be good to fit the garboard Plank but it is up to you.

Your log is very clear.

For the stern the ply former have the advantage to give the good geometry (volume).

 

Have a nice day

[Jorez de Saint Nazaire]

Hi

 

for the propeller ( I bought a brass one with 2 blades from Raboesch) ; type A diameter 30 mm M4 left (code 145-02).

 

Just for information.

 

FJZ

Edited September 2, 2023 by Jorez de Saint Nazaire

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Seeing profiles of the planked hull that you have so far give a nice visualization of the lines - and something subtle I noticed  in my kit review of OcCre's Endurance.  The bow flare of the kit is a little more than seen in forward photos of the ship, as well as published lines.  So I'll trim the first two kit bulkheads a tad to correct when the time comes, and this will impart a little less 'twist' to the solid bulwark piece provided (which can be pre-planked as you've already done.  Bulwark installation and subsequent planking will then be a little easier at the bow.

 

  Conversely, kit bulkheads 7, 8 and 9 are not as wide as the ship's lines would indicate, and one can see some lack of fullness in this area.  New builders can revise these bulkheads (either by bonding additional material or cutting replacements on a jigsaw) prior to framing.  Planking then would be less easy towards the stern, but would have correct lines.  I suspect the designers opted for ease of planking, and the difference would not be noticed on the finished model.

 

  The drawings posted in the kit review can be confusing, because there is no kit frame forward of the first one provided in the kit, so I made another to show the frame differences I'm talking about.

 

 

[Jorez de Saint Nazaire]

Hi,

 

More pictures for your demonstration. 😉

 

[theoracle09]

3 hours ago, Jorez de Saint Nazaire said:

Hi,

 

At this stage it could be good to fit the garboard Plank but it is up to you.

Your log is very clear.

For the stern the ply former have the advantage to give the good geometry (volume).

 

Have a nice day

Yeah I think the ply formers are going to be the way to go. Balsa would be easier to sand, but the pre-cut ply would give the definitive shape. I'll be using the ply formers when the time comes I believe.

 

2 hours ago, Jorez de Saint Nazaire said:

Hi

 

for the propeller ( I bought a brass one with 2 blades from Raboesch) ; type A diameter 30 mm M4 left (code 145-02).

 

Just for information.

 

FJZ

 

That prop looks really good! Did you leave it brass, or blacken it? The prop I bought is 2-bladed 30mm made out of bronze, and it's just barely a mm or 2 longer (fore to aft) to fit when the rudder support post is installed. If I were to buy a 25mm I won't need to adjust the false keel, but I may also design one and ask @Hunt270 to print it out.

 

1 hour ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Seeing profiles of the planked hull that you have so far give a nice visualization of the lines - and something subtle I noticed  in my kit review of OcCre's Endurance.  The bow flare of the kit is a little more than seen in forward photos of the ship, as well as published lines.  So I'll trim the first two kit bulkheads a tad to correct when the time comes, and this will impart a little less 'twist' to the solid bulwark piece provided (which can be pre-planked as you've already done.  Bulwark installation and subsequent planking will then be a little easier at the bow.

 

  Conversely, kit bulkheads 7, 8 and 9 are not as wide as the ship's lines would indicate, and one can see some lack of fullness in this area.  New builders can revise these bulkheads (either by bonding additional material or cutting replacements on a jigsaw) prior to framing.  Planking then would be less easy towards the stern, but would have correct lines.  I suspect the designers opted for ease of planking, and the difference would not be noticed on the finished model.

 

  The drawings posted in the kit review can be confusing, because there is no kit frame forward of the first one provided in the kit, so I made another to show the frame differences I'm talking about.

 

 

 

Thanks for the info Johnny! I'll admit that's one thing I didn't even think of to look at, so you have a great eye to notice the lines are a bit off.

 

43 minutes ago, Jorez de Saint Nazaire said:

Hi,

 

More pictures for your demonstration. 😉

 

 

Thank you for posting these pics! It shows me the runs of the different bands of the second planking, which I've decided to do. I like the first layer I have going on right now, but there are a lot of gaps at the stem on the port side. I've gotten a preliminary vision that I'd like to display the starboard side of this model. Not 100% decided yet but I'm leaning towards that arrangement.

Edited September 2, 2023 by theoracle09

[theoracle09]

Does anyone have any reference for a windlass that may have been installed under the anchor deck? As I've been planking, I've been pondering the anchor chains dropping through the quarter deck, and building a windlass and installing it would have probably been better off with the anchor deck off.

 

I've attempted to search what they'd look like around 1911/1912 but haven't found anything concrete to use to model off of. As the anchor deck is on top of it, it wouldn't be visible unless viewing from an extreme angle, but that's precisely why I want to include it. No one will know it's there unless they look under that deck, and with the closet and door details it'll really round out the area I think.

 

In the plans pic above, does it say "Steam Windlass"? Until I zoomed in to take that screen shot I had assumed it said "Stem Windlass". If the windlass does run off of steam (I know nothing about windlasses by the way, even what they do without steam) could that explain the steam pipe running on the ceiling of the 'tween decks area we're now calling the Ritz?

 

Thanks in advance for any pointers!

[Jorez de Saint Nazaire]

hi Josh

 

one link but not sure that's from Endurance. To be check

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10220932207752025&set=p.10220932207752025&type=3