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Posted

How do you fix/hide/address glue marks from wood glue or CA glue when planking decks or hull? Or any other part of the ship. I do woodworking and I find that it can be very difficult to eliminate glue marks, especially from CA. They become even more visible when finish is applied. 

Posted (edited)

I don't use CA but for PVA wipe away excess wet glue with a wet paper towel and scraper to minimize any residual glue that remains. If some remains and dries, which will happen, place a paper towel or rag that is soaked with alcohol, acetone, or vinegar on the glue for a few minutes, then scrape clean.

Allan

Edited by allanyed

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Posted

CA is nasty and toxic.  Its speed is handy, but not necessary.   Life would probably be simpler of you eschew it altogether.

Between PVA and two part epoxy most all our needs are covered.  Heat activated PVA can replace the instant bond in the few instances where that is absolutely necessary.

StewMac has a premixed Fish glue that might be fun to explore.

 

There are fads of silicon based dry lubricants for belt sanders and bandsaw blades that should be banned from your shop - bullseye in a clear finish.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Hi, as said PVA can be wiped up CA stains wood, I am a wood turn and i read that if you shellac an area let it dry CA won't stain the shellacked area, it works, use zizzner seal coat the bllseye has wax in it, that don't matter if the area is not going to be painted or stained

Posted
1 hour ago, Pirate said:

Hi, as said PVA can be wiped up CA stains wood, I am a wood turn and i read that if you shellac an area let it dry CA won't stain the shellacked area, it works, use zizzner seal coat the bllseye has wax in it, that don't matter if the area is not going to be painted or stained

You are correct. I've read the same thing. However, being the cheapskate I am, I've always used Zinsser Clear Shellac (containing some natural waxes) because it's s two-thirds the price of Zinsser Seal Coat which is their dewaxed shellac. Ten bucks a quart is a fairly big difference. I've never noticed any problem with waxed shellac at all, even with acrylic paints. I don't use a lot of acrylic paint though and stick to enamels and artists' oils for brush and spray painting. Maybe I've just been lucky. Who knows?

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