BWDChris Posted September 10, 2023 Share #1 Posted September 10, 2023 How do you fix/hide/address glue marks from wood glue or CA glue when planking decks or hull? Or any other part of the ship. I do woodworking and I find that it can be very difficult to eliminate glue marks, especially from CA. They become even more visible when finish is applied. mtaylor and Bob Cleek 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted September 10, 2023 Share #2 Posted September 10, 2023 (edited) I don't use CA but for PVA wipe away excess wet glue with a wet paper towel and scraper to minimize any residual glue that remains. If some remains and dries, which will happen, place a paper towel or rag that is soaked with alcohol, acetone, or vinegar on the glue for a few minutes, then scrape clean. Allan Edited September 10, 2023 by allanyed barkeater, BWDChris, mtaylor and 1 other 3 1 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted September 10, 2023 Share #3 Posted September 10, 2023 CA is nasty and toxic. Its speed is handy, but not necessary. Life would probably be simpler of you eschew it altogether. Between PVA and two part epoxy most all our needs are covered. Heat activated PVA can replace the instant bond in the few instances where that is absolutely necessary. StewMac has a premixed Fish glue that might be fun to explore. There are fads of silicon based dry lubricants for belt sanders and bandsaw blades that should be banned from your shop - bullseye in a clear finish. BWDChris, allanyed and mtaylor 2 1 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pirate Posted September 11, 2023 Share #4 Posted September 11, 2023 Hi, as said PVA can be wiped up CA stains wood, I am a wood turn and i read that if you shellac an area let it dry CA won't stain the shellacked area, it works, use zizzner seal coat the bllseye has wax in it, that don't matter if the area is not going to be painted or stained mtaylor and BWDChris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted September 11, 2023 Share #5 Posted September 11, 2023 1 hour ago, Pirate said: Hi, as said PVA can be wiped up CA stains wood, I am a wood turn and i read that if you shellac an area let it dry CA won't stain the shellacked area, it works, use zizzner seal coat the bllseye has wax in it, that don't matter if the area is not going to be painted or stained You are correct. I've read the same thing. However, being the cheapskate I am, I've always used Zinsser Clear Shellac (containing some natural waxes) because it's s two-thirds the price of Zinsser Seal Coat which is their dewaxed shellac. Ten bucks a quart is a fairly big difference. I've never noticed any problem with waxed shellac at all, even with acrylic paints. I don't use a lot of acrylic paint though and stick to enamels and artists' oils for brush and spray painting. Maybe I've just been lucky. Who knows? BWDChris and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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