USS Constitution by SUBaron - Model Shipways (MS2040) - 1:76

[SUBaron]

It’s great to see those set-ups - thanks all for sharing! I like to see the shops/spaces you all have - feels like it’s a little bit of getting to know you. My goal when I retire (in New England) is to have a full workshop, possibly in a barn - with a stove and ocean view - for all the power tools I can handle and I can play music as loud as I want  

 

Cheers!

Andre

[SUBaron]

I made quick work of the 5 stern inner bulwarks planks. I may have over beveled my first plank - according to the practicum (I’m going to call it “the guide” from now on) - I would need to shave the 5th plank a bit to match the 4 Stbd and port planks. Mine however- fit almost perfectly. I had a minor heart palpitation when I realized I still had a full half inch of rear transom risers after laying the 5th plank. I recalled seeing someone’s blog where they were flush with the last plank. Of course - that’s a step coming up soon to prep for the rail. 🙄 Every once in a while I get those moments when I think I totally screwed something up. Probably a hangover from Bob Hunt telling me I should start from scratch and that my rabbet was “terrible”. 😂 

[SUBaron]

Practicum question - Hunt’s guide states to add an outer Planksheer (filler) between  bow framework timbers 3&5. Shouldn’t that be 2&3? 

[JSGerson]

When in doubt with fillers between bulkheads, do more than less. It can't hurt to have extra filler.

 

Jon

Edited April 19 by JSGerson

[SUBaron]

1 hour ago, JSGerson said:

When in doubt with fillers between bulkheads, do more than less. It can't hurt to have extra filler.

 

Jon

Jon - I was thinking the same thing. At worst - you have to carve it back out. Better than trying to surgically implant the fillers 8 steps later. I already added them between the 3&5, but as I ponder them - they’ll add purchase area for planking. So I’ll leave them and take the (short) time to add the fillers between 2&3.
 

This hobby is tough in the Spring. Ground’s maintenance is screaming for attention - but these cannon slots are finally appealing work vs all this previous substrate (unseen) stuff 😂 🤣 Hopefully my summer shipwright work won’t get too sloppy between the competing priorities (vacations, swim meets, golf, etc!). I love this hobby but don’t want this taking 15 years. As my young daughter watches, I’m trying to impart so many lessons. Patience, yet knowing when to cut bait (vis-a-vis research)…perfect is the enemy of progress, magnification must be tempered by reality, jumping into the deep end is OK (after gauging the risk) - and of course- not letting her see dad get pissed off at a wooden ship model. In retrospect- this model was over my current abilities (after only completing the Swift), but not my skill - if that makes sense. Nothing I have encountered is beyond my skill - my greatest  weakness so far is in not looking 3,5, 10 steps ahead. My relative failures so far have been when I said “this is good enough”, but didn’t realize the future implications. 
 

Jon - sorry for the somewhat of a ranting reply to your comment. But I suspect there are several folks who are just lurking and biding their time to begin their USS Constitution build (which has been hiding in a closet like a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle awaiting “that moment”).  I just want them to jump in and carpe diem! Dont wait until your age or patience betray you.

Thanks Jon!

Edited April 19 by SUBaron

[JSGerson]

Rant on. 😫!!!

[Scottish Guy]

Very well done so far... impressive work and set up. Looking forward to see the rest of your journey.

 

Micha

[targa4403]

On 3/16/2024 at 4:29 PM, SUBaron said:

Well that would be great news. After studying my work so far, I think you are right. I can’t see anywhere that I deviated so far from the plan that I’d have such a measuring error. It can’t be fixed at this point (at least I’m not willing to reverse my progress back to redoing the bulwarks), so I’ll continue and include a concave curve to my Waterway - along with the expected curve to accommodate the inner bulwark riser shape. The concave shaping is better IMHO than relying on glue to hold the Waterway. 
 

Thank You!

-Andre
 

After reading all of this, I believe I owe you an apology.  I thought you were talking about the camber of the deck:

Edited April 21 by targa4403

[SUBaron]

5 hours ago, targa4403 said:

After reading all of this, I believe I owe you an apology.  I thought you were talking about the camber of the deck:

I still haven’t found out what the problem was. Everything seems to have worked out so far - I like the way the lines look. Thanks for checking back in. 

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 4/19/2024 at 3:19 PM, SUBaron said:

Practicum question - Hunt’s guide states to add an outer Planksheer (filler) between  bow framework timbers 3&5. Shouldn’t that be 2&3? 

 

(P.S. to Scottish Guy, I just edited my reply because, in the first go-aroung, I answered the wrong question.  I though Andre was asking about the support for timber 4)..

 

No, Bob's right.  The bridle port is between timbers 3 and 5, if I read the plans correctly just now.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22 by Der Alte Rentner
corrections and clarification

[SUBaron]

29 minutes ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

 

No, Bob's right.  It the first photo below, you can see that timber 4 (un-numbered) is sitting on top of the filler piece.  If you look at the second photo, you'll see that timber 5 is to the left of 3.  So, the filler piece is between timbers 3 and 5, supporting timber 4.

 

 

 

At this point in the guide though- we are adding “fillers” to represent the outer part of the planksheer. So why would you have one between 3&5 - this area won’t be opened up so that filler (aka planksheer) will never be seen (perhaps I’m mistaken about this). The one that seems it will be opened is between 2&3.  I added filler between 3&5 because- why not? But the area between 2&3 will be opened later - the plan sheet 2 shows it as an opening access to the Head - I won’t add the timber until I know it’s needed but it just seems a bit odd. 
 

My pic may not look familiar because I added a filler or two “off plan” just for strength. 

Edited April 22 by SUBaron

[Der Alte Rentner]

Okay,

I just took a snapshot of the plans.  The access to the head seems is between timbers 2 and 3, while the bridle port resided between timbers 3 and 5, which is where the "guide" says to put the filler.  However, it's now obvious to me that the planksheer is well above the bridle port.  Therefore, I too have no idea what Hunt was talking about in this case. 

 

 

In general, I've learned that wherever you have planking (or in this case, planksheer) going over a curved span, it's not a bad idea to have filler material underneath to aid in maintaining the curve.  Is it necessary here?  Not sure, but as you can see, I did the exact same thing that you did.  

 

 

 

 

 

Also, you too got to my first response before I changed my original reply to your question.  

 

 

[BruceWayne426]

Andre:

I am new to this site and fairly new to the hobby. Like you, I completed one build (an AL Victory) before starting on the Constitution.  Both ships were gifts from a friend. I am working on the Mamoli Constitution kit from 1980's and have recently started a build log. I have read your log (and others) with great interest. I am particularly interested in the differences in kits. I am not as far along as you are, but have already noticed differences parts and build sequence. As I understand from what others have told me, the Mamoli kit was an early Constellation Kit and created before laser cutting. Anyway, I am learning from you and others who are commenting on your progress.  Thanks for sharing 

[SUBaron]

Gunport Framework

 

I’ve measured out the gunports according to the guide. A few points - remember that no cutout exists on the Port side between bulwarks g&h. Be sure to put the line for your “X” to the correct bulwark (the one you measured from).

 

I’ve noticed that the kit supplied 1/8” x 3/32” basswood stripes are not all uniform. Some are thicker - even within a strip. I keep fishing out the better ones from my pile. Hoping I don’t run out of the good ones b/c it’ll be a PIA to thin a bunch of these by hand. 

[SUBaron]

“The Chopper” is great for cutting identical gunport frames. The metal attachments and reference lines can provide repeatable cuts. The unit is well built - very solid. The blades are single edged razor blades and are easily replaced. The provide a clean cut on the 1/8” basswood. I haven’t tried it yet on anything much thicker. 

[GGibson]

1 hour ago, SUBaron said:

Gunport Framework

 

I’ve noticed that the kit supplied 1/8” x 3/32” basswood stripes are not all uniform. Some are thicker - even within a strip. I keep fishing out the better ones from my pile. Hoping I don’t run out of the good ones b/c it’ll be a PIA to thin a bunch of these by hand. 

 

If you find that it may be easier to order some additional wood of very good quality, I highly recommend Joe at Modeler's Sawmill.  I have ordered from him a few times for additional strips that I cannot create or alter myself.  Milled wood lumber strips for the model ship builder - Modelers Sawmill

 

1 hour ago, SUBaron said:

“The Chopper” is great for cutting identical gunport frames. The metal attachments and reference lines can provide repeatable cuts. The unit is well built - very solid. The blades are single edged razor blades and are easily replaced. The provide a clean cut on the 1/8” basswood. I haven’t tried it yet on anything much thicker. 

 

I have The Chopper I from NorthWest Shore Line and I use it quite often!  I must have the "original" 1st generation Chopper (hence it being called Chopper I, I presume!), as mine does not have the reference lines, which would be handy, but it does have holders on either side of the blade cutter so you can set and make consistent repeatable cuts.  👍

[SUBaron]

@GGibson

Gregg - thanks for the wood supply referral - I may need to utilize this. 
 

I’m not sure what version of the Chopper I have - but IMHO it’s one of the most important tools I have. Especially for anything related to cutting planks or related parts. The reference lines are very useful. I bought this after following a discussion while working on my AL Swift model. 
 

-Cheers!

Andre

[SUBaron]

I sanded across the upper bulwarks so that the bulwark, gun port framing and planksheer fillers were flush. The guide cautioned to just remove the outer layer of char (from the laser) - do not over sand. There are several bulwarks that were oversized and do need to be sanded considerably or they will cause a visible bump in the spar deck bulwarks planking. The idea is to form the inner and outer rail planking  to a uniform thickness. 
 

In an effort to not oversand - I left some minor areas to be spot sanded with a small sanding stick when planking.

 

The 1” sanding block with 120 grit was a good choice here. 

Edited April 25 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

Gunports and other openings were cut using a micro-saw and #11 blade. I also used the saw blade to cut the tops of the bulkheads. I did some minor sanding to the bulkhead tops to be even with the planking. I noticed a few minor issues resulting from odd shaped bulkheads that I’ll tackle when it’s time to install the rail. 

Edited April 25 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

Still cutting the port side gunports. This time I’m cutting the bulwarks tops as I go. For some odd reason - trimming the rear transom was particularly satisfying. 

[SUBaron]

Due to the deteriorating condition of the upper bulwarks (the compressed layers have been separating- I needed to peel off and re-glue some of the layers on the main bulwark sections earlier on), it’s better to snip them than to saw them. 

[SUBaron]

The last of the port cutouts - of course - I nearly cut into the planksheer on my last section. I’ll have some painting to redo on my interior planksheer sections. I’m not convinced that early painting of the waterway & planksheer was either a good or bad idea. There’s a lot of sanding to be done to prep for the rail and painting but for now - I’ll leave that for later.

 

On to the transom gunports.

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 4/24/2024 at 5:51 PM, GGibson said:

If you find that it may be easier to order some additional wood of very good quality, I highly recommend Joe at Modeler's Sawmill.  I have ordered from him a few times for additional strips that I cannot create or alter myself.  Milled wood lumber strips for the model ship builder - Modelers Sawmill

I have the same issue with the material that came with the kit.  I tried three approaches to deal with the problem.

1. I asked Model Shipways to provide replacement strips.  (No response since their acknowledgement email on December 1, 2023.)  

2. I ordered replacement strips from Modeler's Sawmill.  Unfortunately the strips were significantly darker than the basswood that came with the kit.  Because I was/am still hoping to keep a natural finish, these were not usable.  (They were also significantly shorter - I'd say 2/3 the length of the stock in the kit, so ask about that when you order). 

3. I went to Ace Hardware and purchased material that was a tad thicker than the kit's stock, and used my thickness drum sander to get make my own replacement strips.  The color was an exact match, and the strips were spot on in their dimensions. 

 

Edited April 26 by Der Alte Rentner

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 4/16/2024 at 10:48 AM, Der Alte Rentner said:

On 4/16/2024 at 10:08 AM, SUBaron said:

After some thought, I decided to make a tenon separate from the bowsprit. It’s fitted tightly to the laser cut bulkhead mortise and feeds through it into a mortise I cut into the bowsprit. For some reason - my brain preferred this method - it was quick, easy and sturdy. 

whatever floats your boat.. Great fit!

As I approach that part of the build where I need to fabricate and (dry) fit the mast, I may be coming around to your line of thinking when it comes to the tenons at the bottoms.  I experimented with carving a tenon one end of a dowel and was not thrilled with the result.  Even if the tenon is flush-mounted and reinforced with a nail after I test the fit, the method your brain preferred may indeed be the better option.

[JJUSNRET]

SUPER WORK!!!!  Also new to this.  Currently working Charles W Morgan as my first build.  Please know that I am using techniques you are showing on Connie (which I have in my"shipyard").  Quality of photography is far superior to anything I have seen anywhere.  As ret USN (20) and ret Middle School Special Ed teacher (25) you have a tremendous understanding of  teaching  as does Eric, Der Alte Renter, GS, and the others that are contributing to this effort.  I am saving these as pdf files on hard drive.  Techniques I have seen here will help others and can be applied to any model they may build!!!  WELL DONE!!!  JJ

[SUBaron]

Thanks JJ! I appreciate the compliment. I wouldn’t have made it this far without the utilizing lessons learned/demonstrated from others here. It makes me happy that I’m able to help!

 

Cheers!

Andre

[SUBaron]

Transom 

 

Found some time to work on the transoms. Nothing unusual here - measure, fit, sand, glue. I used a knife and finished with a sander to trim the overage on the edges.  I have to work another Planksheer on due to some uneven fit. It may require fashioning two “end” pieces, then sanding them flush with the middle, which fits well.  I may do this after the cathead when I add the port & starboard planksheer. 

Edited September 29 by SUBaron