HMS Sphinx by Cjames - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Cjames]

Hi all.  This is my build log for HMS Sphinx from the Vanguard Models stable.   As is evident from the photos below, a significant amount of work has already been completed. My goal for this log is to explain some of the procedures and techniques used in the build thus far, highlight those areas where I departed from the standard kit build, and cover the remaining work to complete the model in real time.  Before jumping into that, I want to acknowledge those MSW members whose contributions  have most influenced this specific project and shaped my overall philosophy on model ship building.  These members are Chuck Passaro, Ron (Hollowneck), Maurice (Blue Ensign), Peter (flyer) and Bob (rafine).  In mentioning these folks whose work has particularly influenced mine, I do not mean to slight in any way those many other members whose excellent work graces this forum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So this is the state of the build at present.   My approach on color is to use it sparingly; a sort of less-is-more philosophy.  I followed Hollowneck's approach as to which features to paint and which to leave natural.  The colors used are admiralty (Caldercraft) flat black, iron black, french blue, red ochre and white, and Vallejo brown ochre.  The finish is wipe-on poly.

 

In my kit, there is a fair degree of variation in the color of the provided pear hull planks.  This is highlighted in some of the photos.  I don't blame the manufacturer for this as the kit design calls for filling and painting below the waterline.  If I were to do it again, I would make more of an effort to color match the planks at least on on one side.  

 

As to the planking itself, I used the techniques developed by Chuck Passaro and  demonstrated in several articles and videos on this site.  Blue Ensign's logs for his Sphinx and Indefatigable builds also show the process, as do other logs.   Basically, this calls for lining off the hull into sections, using a planking fan and tic strips to get the width of each plank at each bulkhead within each section, marking out and cutting the planks, and inducing a lateral bend in the planks at the bow to get them to lie flat along the bulkheads.

 

Using these techniques, I was able to get a fairly good fit at the bow without too much trouble.  The stern was more complicated.  There were two issues.  First, getting the planks both to bend smoothly under the counter and twist slightly to meet the lower counter piece at the required angle, and second, to work out the shape along the upper stern post where the planks narrow and then widen to meet the stern post.  For me, shaping these four or five planks was critical to  avoiding having to insert small triangular fillers to close up this area.

 

For the planks running under the counter, I bent them over a heated piece of copper pipe using an aluminum shim to apply pressure to the top of the plank during the bending.  To impart a twist to the bent section, I skewed the plank along the length of the pipe, applying more pressure to one edge.  The set-up is pictured below.

 

 

The shim is a piece off aluminum cut out of a coke can.  Heat the pipe with the torch just for a minute or so, spritz the plank with water and pick up the plank with your fingers holding the shim over the section you want to bend.  Slowly apply the plank to the pipe with the shim facing up and bend the plank/shim sandwich at an angle over the pipe.  It only takes a couple of seconds.  A sample plank bent in this manner is shown below.

 

Some tweaking is necessary for a final fit, but you can see that the sample fits in the area below the lower counter pretty well.

 

 

Looking at the above photo, the first nine or so planks that terminate at the counter are full width.  Below these, the planks begin to narrow in width as they approach the stern post, then widen to full width as they meet the stern post.  The general shape of the planks in this section is shown below.

 

Here the shape has been marked on the plank and partially cut.  I start with a vertical saw cut at the narrowest point where the two tapers diverge, then cut the tapers in the usual way.   The photo of the stern section above shows nicks in a couple of planks in this area where the vertical saw cuts were a little too deep.  The short taper at the sternpost has been cut, while the longer taper along the underside of the hull has yet to be formed.  

 

Here is a section of plank with both tapers cut and bent over a heated pipe as described above.

 

 

I'll cover some more issues in later posts.

 

Thanks

Cjames 

 

 

 

 

[mugje]

Amazing progress so far! And I do like your color choices, it gives the ship a nice warm appearance. 

[Cjames]

Hi Mugje.  Thanks for your interest.  I've been following your own Sphinx build closely and its a beauty.  Thanks also to all those members for the "likes". 

[DaveBaxt]

Fantastic scroll work and fine detail which shows a very high standard of workmanship. I also agree with Mugje the colours are very pleasing to the eye.

[Theodosius]

Beautiful, how the planks run into the stem and counter! And thank's a lot for explaining in detail, how you worked out your planks for that!

[mugje]

Do I see it right that you also (not sure how to call it, but the small red edge on the inside of a gunport) lined off the gunports, like Blue Ensign also did in his version of the Sphinx? 

Edited January 13 by mugje