Flying Cloud 1851 by hof00 - Mamoli - 1/96 - American clipper

[ClipperFan]

On 7/1/2024 at 11:09 AM, rwiederrich said:

It would sure be refreshing to see a builder actually follow through and add the Naval Hoods to bolster the cutwater and make the stem factual.

 

You've done an exhaustive study, coupled with much research...to verify the validity of these McKay structural marvels.  They truly separate his ships from all the rest.   He made sure of it.  Duncan Mclean recorded it.

 

Rob

@rwiederrich Rob,

Did you ever think that probably one of the most significant developments of our 2 year investigation into McKay's final clipper ship would be rediscovery of his 174 year old secret bow design? It turns out Glory of the Seas is a genuine "Rosetta Stone" finally unveiling McKay's obsessively guarded secrets. It must have been quite a reinforcement to the aggressive bows on his vessels and quite possibly contributed to even better sailing performance. Fashioning those convoluted naval hood structures might also have been a guarded secret too. I cover this development in the second article, which I finally intend to complete this Fall.

[rwiederrich]

You know....I've looked to see if any other clipper during that time had anything suggesting a *Naval Hood*....and I generally found nothing.

The stem of American clippers had ornamentation....but rarely Have I seen an ornamental *cheeks*....or *Hoods*  Notice the examples presented here.  It appears in 1869 a *Hood* might be represented........other that the McKay clippers...I'm not sure what other vessels were identified to make this drawing significant....other than , Like I said.....McKay clippers.

[ClipperFan]

On 7/4/2024 at 5:44 AM, hof00 said:

Thank you, kindly Sir, for your extensive dissertation and images!!

I will get to your attached article in a day or two.

 

I have been away from the PC for a few days now, concentrating on the Flying Cloud 1st Planking. (The lines are really starting to show themselves.

 

I should have a reasonable update in the next few days.

 

Thank you once again for your information, much appreciated.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

 

@hof00 Harry,

Should you be able to accurately include to scale the unique McKay bow, including curving cutwater and those fascinating naval hoods (really an extension of the prow itself) yours will be the first accurate replica of Flying Cloud ever! 

[rwiederrich]

16 minutes ago, ClipperFan said:

finally unveiling McKay's obsessively guarded secrets.

I always assumed, that after McKay revealed his first *Hood* design on.....say the Staghound....it would have become evident of this novel, ingenious, structure.  And hence, encouraging others to *mimic8 McKay's design.  Who truly knows the *INTERNAL* secrets...unseen by prying eyes.

This clipper appears to have a *cheek*....not really a *hood* though.

This clipper just has stem scrolling.  Which I found typical.

[ClipperFan]

3 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I always assumed, that after McKay revealed his first *Hood* design on.....say the Staghound....it would have become evident of this novel, ingenious, structure.  And hence, encouraging others to *mimic8 McKay's design.  Who truly knows the *INTERNAL* secrets...unseen by prying eyes.

This clipper appears to have a *cheek*....not really a *hood* though.

This clipper just has stem scrolling.  Which I found typical.

@rwiederrich Rob,

Knowing how challenging it was for you to replicate those naval hoods for your Glory of the Seas model, it might just be others hadn't figured out exactly how the McKay shipyard manufactured them. Think about the complex twisting curvatures involved. It would take some engineering precision to accomplish that. Most likely other contemporary ship builders either didn't see the advantage to this inventive nautical design or they couldn't figure out how to construct it. I know this for a fact, I have never seen anything like it on any other ship and I have perused literally 100s of rare clipper ship photos.

Clearly Donald McKay himself jealously guarded this feature, as an ultra rare sketch of his Australian Black Ball clipper Lightning sketched in his own hand has a mysterious 10 foot blank space at the bow right were the cutwater and those hoods would normally appear! Ironically, this American Heritage Junior Library book "Clipper Ships and Captains, pages: 114-115 is the only source where I discovered this document. Meanwhile, look how much difficulty we've had in convincing others that these peculiar nautical devices existed. Even Scott Bradner of SOBCO.com website devoted in-depth to Flying Cloud has completely missed the significance of this unique bow structure. Simply amazing.

Edited July 5 by ClipperFan
grammar correction

[rwiederrich]

I agree completely.   Why is it escaping so many that McKay openly and admittedly claimed he kept secret, several structural features.  The Naval hood is one known significant one.   But it’s like pulling teeth to get folks on board.   Sometimes you have to read between the lines to get to the truth.  
 

Rob

[ClipperFan]

2 minutes ago, ClipperFan said:

@rwiederrich Rob, it's like that old "Bloom County" joke "Daily beatings will continue until morale improves!" Actually, on Ships of Scale I've had some success with one Flying Cloud modeler and another seems to be ready to go soon. The tide is slowly turning as the facts get out.

 

[hof00]

On 7/6/2024 at 1:02 AM, ClipperFan said:

@hof00 Harry,

Should you be able to accurately include to scale the unique McKay bow, including curving cutwater and those fascinating naval hoods (really an extension of the prow itself) yours will be the first accurate replica of Flying Cloud ever! 

 

On 7/6/2024 at 1:07 AM, rwiederrich said:

I always assumed, that after McKay revealed his first *Hood* design on.....say the Staghound....it would have become evident of this novel, ingenious, structure.  And hence, encouraging others to *mimic8 McKay's design.  Who truly knows the *INTERNAL* secrets...unseen by prying eyes.

This clipper appears to have a *cheek*....not really a *hood* though.

This clipper just has stem scrolling.  Which I found typical.

Gentlemen,

Thank you both for your continued interest, feedback and information, very much appreciated.

I have a question for you both:

Do you have a photo or similar of the "Internal" Bulwark Stanchions?

I have Mr. Bouchers plans but they are not 100% clear.

 

The first Hull Planking is pretty much complete with some fine sanding to do.

I will also post some photos tomorrow of progress to date.

 

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

[ClipperFan]

4 hours ago, hof00 said:

 

Gentlemen,

Thank you both for your continued interest, feedback and information, very much appreciated.

I have a question for you both:

Do you have a photo or similar of the "Internal" Bulwark Stanchions?

I have Mr. Bouchers plans but they are not 100% clear.

 

The first Hull Planking is pretty much complete with some fine sanding to do.

I will also post some photos tomorrow of progress to date.

 

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

@hof00 Harry,

There are no known photos of Flying Cloud. I couldn't find any specific dimensions for her bulwarks either. However, Michael Mjelde's first book Glory of the Seas includes a Duncan McLean, Boston Daily Atlas article in an appendix. Very specific dimensions of her bulwark stanchions, varying width, depth and distance between each are included. We shared it in the Glory of the Seas build log by  @rwiederrich When we get a chance, either Rob or I will share those specifics here. 

In addition, there's a photo of the ship's 'tween decks. Inside her outer skin (bulkheads) are fascinating criss-cross structural reinforcements.

Dead center of the X formed are additional horizontal stringers which run the entire length of the ship. Essentially this creates an engineering six-point latticework to strengthen the entire vessel. No such description of these structural members being installed in Flying Cloud exists. However, due to her great length (she was the world's largest merchant vessel at her launch) it makes total sense that these would have been included. Again, it reminds me of the fact that McKay jealously guarded his nautical secrets. When I get a chance, I'll share it too with you. 

 

[ClipperFan]

deer

7 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

@hof00 Harry,

There are no known photos of Flying Cloud. I couldn't find any specific dimensions for her bulwarks either. However, Michael Mjelde's first book Glory of the Seas includes a Duncan McLean, Boston Daily Atlas article in an appendix. Very specific dimensions of her bulwark stanchions, varying width, depth and distance between each are included. We shared it in the Glory of the Seas build log by  @rwiederrich When we get a chance, either Rob or I will share those specifics here. 

In addition, there's a photo of the ship's 'tween decks. Inside her outer skin (bulkheads) are fascinating criss-cross structural reinforcements.

Dead center of the X formed are additional horizontal stringers which run the entire length of the ship. Essentially this creates an engineering six-point latticework to strengthen the entire vessel. No such description of these structural members being installed in Flying Cloud exists. However, due to her great length (she was the world's largest merchant vessel at her launch) it makes total sense that these would have been included. Again, it reminds me of the fact that McKay jealously guarded his nautical secrets. When I get a chance, I'll share it too with you. 

 

@hof00 Harry,

I found those dimensions listed for Donald McKay's final medium clipper Glory of the Seas. This page from Jan-Feb Seaways Ships of Scale describes frame sizes and the spacing between them. Attached too is the 'tween deck photo described to you earlier. I hope this is the information you were looking for. I realize this isn't specific to Flying Cloud but it's the same clipper ship designer and it's logical to think such components were kept similar for basic construction.

 

"The floor timbers are sided 15 inches and moulded 20 inches on the keel with 28 inches space-of frames from center to center, and as the frames ascend, they vary from 12 inches by 14 inches to 8 inches by 11 inches, and the bulwark stanchions at the plank-sheer are sided 11 inches and moulded 8 inches."

Edited July 9 by ClipperFan
missing information

[hof00]

6 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

deer

@hof00 Harry,

I found those dimensions listed for Donald McKay's final medium clipper Glory of the Seas. This page from Jan-Feb Seaways Ships of Scale describes frame sizes and the spacing between them. Attached too is the 'tween deck photo described to you earlier. I hope this is the information you were looking for. I realize this isn't specific to Flying Cloud but it's the same clipper ship designer and it's logical to think such components were kept similar for basic construction.

 

"The floor timbers are sided 15 inches and moulded 20 inches on the keel with 28 inches space-of frames from center to center, and as the frames ascend, they vary from 12 inches by 14 inches to 8 inches by 11 inches, and the bulwark stanchions at the plank-sheer are sided 11 inches and moulded 8 inches."

Thank you Sir,

The info that I would like to obtain, if you have access to it, are the Stanchions that are visible on the Deck Bulwarks.

(You have been very kind in giving me the information that I asked for.... My apologies, my error.)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[hof00]

Hi All,

It's been a few weeks since my last update as I have been otherwise occupied with the first Hull Planking.

Firstly, for anyone that may be thinking about building this kit, be very, very frugal with the material provided.... I ended up using my longer Planking offcuts to complete. (I feel that this will be the case for all subsequent material supplied, in fact, I know this to be the case.... 🙂

 

Anyway, enough griping about things....

 

I feel that there were a few errors on my behalf, (The "Operator"), prior to laying the Strakes, I ended up using filler to get good and smooth lines, most of the filler being sanded away, (A good thing), but I would have preferred not to use any filler at all.

 

The attached photos show the Hull as it stands this morning, I have to pay a little more attention to the Stern to complete.

 

I believe that the best way forward now is to continue with the second cover before I remove the Bulwark extensions to enable me to complete the Deck and Internal Bulwark planking. (I figure it is a good thing to have the Bulwark Extensions in situ while I ham handling the Hull so much.)

 

I am thinking I will build the "Houses" next to give me a break from the Hull. 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos for your appraisal and critique. 

[ClipperFan]

2 hours ago, hof00 said:

Thank you Sir,

The info that I would like to obtain, if you have access to it, are the Stanchions that are visible on the Deck Bulwarks.

(You have been very kind in giving me the information that I asked for.... My apologies, my error.)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

@hof00 Harry, Exactly what items are you referring to when you say visible deck bulwark stanchions? Are you asking about turned rail stanchions which support the guardrail that surrounds the poop deck? 

[ClipperFan]

2 hours ago, hof00 said:

Hi All,

It's been a few weeks since my last update as I have been otherwise occupied with the first Hull Planking.

Firstly, for anyone that may be thinking about building this kit, be very, very frugal with the material provided.... I ended up using my longer Planking offcuts to complete. (I feel that this will be the case for all subsequent material supplied, in fact, I know this to be the case.... 🙂

 

Anyway, enough griping about things....

 

I feel that there were a few errors on my behalf, (The "Operator"), prior to laying the Strakes, I ended up using filler to get good and smooth lines, most of the filler being sanded away, (A good thing), but I would have preferred not to use any filler at all.

 

The attached photos show the Hull as it stands this morning, I have to pay a little more attention to the Stern to complete.

 

I believe that the best way forward now is to continue with the second cover before I remove the Bulwark extensions to enable me to complete the Deck and Internal Bulwark planking. (I figure it is a good thing to have the Bulwark Extensions in situ while I ham handling the Hull so much.)

 

I am thinking I will build the "Houses" next to give me a break from the Hull. 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos for your appraisal and critique. 

 

[hof00]

5 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

@hof00 Harry, Exactly what items are you referring to when you say visible deck bulwark stanchions? Are you asking about turned rail stanchions which support the guardrail that surrounds the poop deck? 

Hi There,

This diagram may help to explain....

These are the Stanchions that go from Deck to Pin Rail.

 

Flying_Cloud_Bradner_hull-side.graffle (sobco.com)

 

Trouble is, what do they actually look like? (Profile?) and exactly how many are there? 24 or 48 per side?

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[hof00]

@ClipperFan

I guess, looking again at the plan, there are 24 Stanchions per side.

To stop being lazy, I should represent these with something like 0.5 X 1.5mm strip wood?

Does this sound viable at 1/96?

 

Cheers.

[gak1965]

On my 1:96 Flying Fish, I used 1/16 square stock to make the stanchions. It wasn't really an option not make them, they were what I was going.ti build the bulwarks off. The stanchions on the real ship were extensions of the frames, so did have non square, non straight profiles, but at 1:96 on (in my case) a POB ship it made no sense to try to shape them. I did include the ventilation tubes. I'm a little surprised they are straight on the plans. The Fish plans had them turn over so that the opening faced down, presumably so that it would be a little harder for water to enter 

 

Regards,

George 

[ClipperFan]

10 hours ago, hof00 said:

Hi There,

This diagram may help to explain....

These are the Stanchions that go from Deck to Pin Rail.

 

Flying_Cloud_Bradner_hull-side.graffle (sobco.com)

 

Trouble is, what do they actually look like? (Profile?) and exactly how many are there? 24 or 48 per side?

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

[ClipperFan]

1 hour ago, ClipperFan said:

 

@hof00 Harry,

I tried twice to answer your questions on my cell phone only to lose my texts both times. Now I'll explain why I added 3 Glory of the Seas pics to your questions about Flying Cloud bulkhead stanchions. First, those stanchions are also the ship's frames. There're no specific dimensions given for Flying Cloud but as I shared for Glory those frame stanchions were 28 inches apart center to center and were sided 11 inches and molded 8 inches. I'm not as fluent in metric as I am in standard measurement. So, you'll need to use a conversion tool for that. 1:96th scale is 1-inch equals 8 feet. 1/8th inch equals 1 ft (width would be just under that) 1/16th inch is 6 inches (depth would be slightly more). Modeling at the scale you're working on, I would err on the side of making details smaller than oversized as it will make your vessel look larger. 

Now to explain the pictures. From your bow image, it concerns me that your bowsprit opening appears to be too low. In addition, it's oval when in reality these spars were actually rectangular. The top image is the famous Black photo of Glory of the Seas on the launch ways at the Peabody-Essex Museum, Salem, Mass. First, notice how high up the bowsprit mounts in the ship. It's just above the sheer line molding and below the main rail top. The close-up detail shows how the mounted entrance is not round but instead rectangular. The 1913 Muir photo starboard image of Glory of the Seas at the Spokane Grain Dock is a great resource to show the unique McKay prow in meticulous detail. It's a little hard to make it out, since jib sails cover part of this, but the inner jibboom narrows about 5 to 6 feet before it enters the rectangular opening at the monkey rail. Below that is the large bowsprit which also widens a little and becomes rectangular as it enters the opening just above the sheer line. This mechanical design makes sense as it makes it impossible for either massive spar to rotate, which could lead to disastrous consequences. Immediately below and reinforcing the bowsprit-jibboom combination are the substantial bow extensions referred to as naval hoods. lovely Grecian goddess Athene mounts directly to these combined nautical devices via a massive iron bar, which I personally saw on my recent visit to see her in person. They still wear the lovely intertwining ribbon carvings which were originally gilded in gold leaf. Behind and below her feet are the cutwaters which overlap the stem and are in turn sandwiched between the naval hoods. Only a small section of the original ornate acanthus leaf carvings remains. Another detail that commercial models get wrong is placement of the anchor chain hawse hole. That's due to the fact that they've completely missed inclusion of the devices I just enumerated, and which can be clearly seen here. What simply blows my mind is that this unusual prow arrangement has been on every McKay clipper, save one, the Great Republic since Donald McKay debuted his inaugural extreme clipper Stag Hound December 1850! Correct placement of this hawse hole is immediately below the base of the naval hoods, as can be clearly seen in this remarkable image. I sincerely hope these factual insights will enable you to create your most accurate Flying Cloud model that you desire.

1 hour ago, ClipperFan said:

 

 

Edited July 10 by ClipperFan
additional information

[hof00]

On 7/11/2024 at 9:24 AM, ClipperFan said:

@hof00 Harry,

I tried twice to answer your questions on my cell phone only to lose my texts both times. Now I'll explain why I added 3 Glory of the Seas pics to your questions about Flying Cloud bulkhead stanchions. First, those stanchions are also the ship's frames. There're no specific dimensions given for Flying Cloud but as I shared for Glory those frame stanchions were 28 inches apart center to center and were sided 11 inches and molded 8 inches. I'm not as fluent in metric as I am in standard measurement. So, you'll need to use a conversion tool for that. 1:96th scale is 1-inch equals 8 feet. 1/8th inch equals 1 ft (width would be just under that) 1/16th inch is 6 inches (depth would be slightly more). Modeling at the scale you're working on, I would err on the side of making details smaller than oversized as it will make your vessel look larger. 

Now to explain the pictures. From your bow image, it concerns me that your bowsprit opening appears to be too low. In addition, it's oval when in reality these spars were actually rectangular. The top image is the famous Black photo of Glory of the Seas on the launch ways at the Peabody-Essex Museum, Salem, Mass. First, notice how high up the bowsprit mounts in the ship. It's just above the sheer line molding and below the main rail top. The close-up detail shows how the mounted entrance is not round but instead rectangular. The 1913 Muir photo starboard image of Glory of the Seas at the Spokane Grain Dock is a great resource to show the unique McKay prow in meticulous detail. It's a little hard to make it out, since jib sails cover part of this, but the inner jibboom narrows about 5 to 6 feet before it enters the rectangular opening at the monkey rail. Below that is the large bowsprit which also widens a little and becomes rectangular as it enters the opening just above the sheer line. This mechanical design makes sense as it makes it impossible for either massive spar to rotate, which could lead to disastrous consequences. Immediately below and reinforcing the bowsprit-jibboom combination are the substantial bow extensions referred to as naval hoods. lovely Grecian goddess Athene mounts directly to these combined nautical devices via a massive iron bar, which I personally saw on my recent visit to see her in person. They still wear the lovely intertwining ribbon carvings which were originally gilded in gold leaf. Behind and below her feet are the cutwaters which overlap the stem and are in turn sandwiched between the naval hoods. Only a small section of the original ornate acanthus leaf carvings remains. Another detail that commercial models get wrong is placement of the anchor chain hawse hole. That's due to the fact that they've completely missed inclusion of the devices I just enumerated, and which can be clearly seen here. What simply blows my mind is that this unusual prow arrangement has been on every McKay clipper, save one, the Great Republic since Donald McKay debuted his inaugural extreme clipper Stag Hound December 1850! Correct placement of this hawse hole is immediately below the base of the naval hoods, as can be clearly seen in this remarkable image. I sincerely hope these factual insights will enable you to create your most accurate Flying Cloud model that you desire.

 

Hi Clipper Fan,

Many thanks once again for the Detail, descriptions and photos, much appreciated.

I welcome the constructive critique.

 

I agree that the Naval Hoods would look good, I need to give this some consideration.

The Bowsprit entry Hole may/should be square, I get the reasoning for this but I feel that it is a little too late to perform "Surgery."

 

I am also bound by kit constraints and the materials I have at hand.

 

So, onwards....

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

Edited July 15 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update:

 

Started constructing the "Houses" to give me a little break from the Hull Planking. (Second Cover)

The work helps me to have a really good think about the best way to approach things. 🙂

I milled my own Walnut for planking as, as I have mentioned more than once, there is stuff all spare material in the kit....🙂

I have also made Frames for the Fore and Main Hatches, maybe I'll have a wee play with these items tomorrow.

Regarding my 1/78 Cutty Sark, components were significantly larger, item at 2/96 are a bit more challenging, Micro Joinery?

 

I do enjoy the Deck "Furniture...."

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

[hof00]

On 7/11/2024 at 1:04 AM, gak1965 said:

On my 1:96 Flying Fish, I used 1/16 square stock to make the stanchions. It wasn't really an option not make them, they were what I was going.ti build the bulwarks off. The stanchions on the real ship were extensions of the frames, so did have non square, non straight profiles, but at 1:96 on (in my case) a POB ship it made no sense to try to shape them. I did include the ventilation tubes. I'm a little surprised they are straight on the plans. The Fish plans had them turn over so that the opening faced down, presumably so that it would be a little harder for water to enter 

 

Regards,

George 

Thanks Gorge,

I intend to add the detail you mention.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[ClipperFan]

2 hours ago, hof00 said:

Hi Clipper Fan,

Many thanks once again for the Detail, descriptions and photos, much appreciated.

I welcome the constructive critique.

 

I agree that the Naval Hoods would look good, I need to give this some consideration.

The Bowsprit entry Hole may/should be square, I get the reasoning for this but I feel that it is a little too late to perform "Surgery."

 

I am also bound by kit constraints and the materials I have at hand.

 

So, onwards....

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

@hof00 Harry,

My intent is just to assist modelers in their objectives to create a more accurate version of the ship they're working on. As far as doing actual modeling myself. I never progressed beyond plastic models. I am constantly impressed with wooden construction capabilities of craftsmen like yourself. When fashioning a McKay bow, the other component to remember is the cutwater below the naval hoods. This important component is what gives McKay's clipper ships like Flying Cloud their yacht like appearance. On the real vessel, her trumpet bearing, winged angel figurehead has her feet attached to the cutwater, while a large, hidden iron bar mounted her to naval hoods above. She was about 7 feet long and projected about 8 feet out with the cutwater. I hate to make your modeling efforts even harder but at 1:96th scale, she'll be 7/8ths of an inch projecting out another inch with the cutwater. Tiny, for sure. By having such a small figurehead in scale makes the rest of your ship larger in comparison. The anchor hawse hole is much lower than on your plans as it exits below the naval hoods. Since the height of the exterior molding between lower planksheer and upper mainrail is 4 feet, a foot above the inner deck due to her foot high inner waterways, the rear of the naval hood curving triangular shape is 3 & 1/2 feet, depth of the cutwarer below would be 2 feet.

[hof00]

15 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

@hof00 Harry,

My intent is just to assist modelers in their objectives to create a more accurate version of the ship they're working on. As far as doing actual modeling myself. I never progressed beyond plastic models. I am constantly impressed with wooden construction capabilities of craftsmen like yourself. When fashioning a McKay bow, the other component to remember is the cutwater below the naval hoods. This important component is what gives McKay's clipper ships like Flying Cloud their yacht like appearance. On the real vessel, her trumpet bearing, winged angel figurehead has her feet attached to the cutwater, while a large, hidden iron bar mounted her to naval hoods above. She was about 7 feet long and projected about 8 feet out with the cutwater. I hate to make your modeling efforts even harder but at 1:96th scale, she'll be 7/8ths of an inch projecting out another inch with the cutwater. Tiny, for sure. By having such a small figurehead in scale makes the rest of your ship larger in comparison. The anchor hawse hole is much lower than on your plans as it exits below the naval hoods. Since the height of the exterior molding between lower planksheer and upper mainrail is 4 feet, a foot above the inner deck due to her foot high inner waterways, the rear of the naval hood curving triangular shape is 3 & 1/2 feet, depth of the cutwarer below would be 2 feet.

Thank you, kindly Sir!!

I very much appreciate your input and interest with my build.

There are discrepancies with the kit, for instance, Hatch Cover Planking, on the plans, runs lengthwise but should run across the width of the Hatches.

With the research material I have, there are 20 planks across the Main and 16 on the Fore hatch. With my build, I have room for 10 (X2) Planks across the Main and 7 (X 2) across the Fore. The Planking width that I am going to use is 3.0mm wide, this should give me some wriggle room to represent Lifting Rings on each Hatch Plank.

So, a compromise.... What works and hopefully what looks the part.... 🙂

 

The information that you have provided is very comprehensive and I am certainly taking this into account.

Please continue to comment.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

[hof00]

Hi All,

Update:

 

• First External Bulwark Planking started. (5.0 X 1.0mm around the Bulwark tops and four rows 3.0 X 1.0mm Focsle Bulwarks)
• Focsle and Poop Bulkhead extensions removed
• Focsle and Poop Decks planked (Inboard Bulwark planking to be done at a later stage)
• Fore and Main Hatches assembled (I am unsure if I like these, I may have to re make these)

 

Wood quality and quantity remains an issue and I have resorted to mill/resaw my own dwindling supply.... 🙂

On a positive note, I feel a sense of progress.

 

Cheers.... HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

[hof00]

Hi All,

It's been a few weeks since I updated this log, so here it is....

 

• Main Deck Planking completed
• Hull Planking done up to and including Wales
• Bowsprit Jibboom tapered and test fitted
• Houses pretty much done
• Companionways and Skylights almost complete

 

Additional comments:

 

• Hull Planking is multi shaded Walnut, but I am not too concerned as it will be painted Black
• Pin-Rails in Instructions and on Plan are more "Isolated" "Pin-Pads" and do not run the length of the Main Deck. To overcome this, I laminated and clamped two 2.0 X 1.5mm Strips on ech side, laminated in situ and removed once dry. I think that this will be much better
• House Planking is two shades of Walnut, the lighter is Kit supplied and I am being really frugal with this material as the Kit has already demonstrated the lack of material. The Kit supplied lighter Walnut is also for Planking below the Wales
• I used the kit supplied Window Frames, (Metal), but used the Doors I made previously and relented, painting the Frames White. Windows and Doors each have 0.16mm thick Acetate on the rears painted Tamiya Clear Blue. Glued onto the Houses using thinned Mig Ammo Ultra Glue

 

So, I think that's all up to date for the mo.... 🙂

 

Comments/Suggestions always welcome.

 

Cheers.... HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

Edited August 24 by hof00

[jpalmer1970]

Looking very good HOF 👍👍

[hof00]

5 hours ago, jpalmer1970 said:

Looking very good HOF 👍👍

Thank you, Sir,

It seems to be getting somewhere.... 🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[BobG]

Nice job, Harry!

[hof00]

On 8/27/2024 at 2:23 PM, BobG said:

Nice job, Harry!

Thanks Chap. 🙂