HM Gun Brig Adder 1797 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 18/08/2024

Time worked today: 1 hour.

Total time spent on build: 39 hours.

 

Fitting Inner Stern Transom Pattern

As indicated in a previous post the inner stern transom pattern had been trimmed during the dry fitting process. Today a light coat of varnish was brushed on the pattern. Once that had dried 2 coats of flat red paint were brushed on. Before gluing the pattern in place, a trial fit of the inner transom pattern cleats was done. This is much easier to check before the pattern is fixed in place. The pattern was then glued in place. I did apply of red paint to the openings once the glue had cured.

Preparing Inner Bulwark Rails

The various inner bulwark rail patterns were removed from the 0.8mm sheet and the laser char was carefully removed from the edges. There is still a bit of work required to fit these rails as they may need trimmed to ensure they are aligned with the edges of the various gun port openings. It will be slow and steady work to complete.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 20/08/2024

Time worked today: 3 hours.

Total time spent on build: 42 hours.

 

Spirketting

Before fitting the spirketting patterns a fine coat of vanish was brushed on the inner bulwarks which were then brush painted with two coats of flat red. I did tape the outer bulwarks to try to prevent unwanted paint leakage.

I then checked the carronade eyebolts would fit in various bulwark holes. Where necessary a micro drill was used to ensure the eyebolts would fit.

 

After trimming the spirketting patterns, a fine coat of vanish was brushed on them and then two coats of flat red paint were then brush on.

 

The spirketting patterns were then glued in place and held in place using plenty of clamps.

Once the glue had cured the clamps were removed.

The wale patterns have been soaked in warm water and they are currently clamped to the hull and will be left to fully dry out over night.

Edited August 20 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 22/08/2024

Time worked today: 4 hours.

Total time spent on build: 46 hours.

 

Wales and External Rails

As indicated in my last post the soaked wale patterns had been clamped to the hull. Once they were released a coat of varnish was brushed on followed by two coats of black paint.

 Before fitting the wales I did add some tape to protect the bulwark patterns from any excess glue.

 After applying the wales with wood glue they were added to the hull. I did use some clamps to hold them in place as the glue cured.

The next job was to fit the lower rail patterns. After the laser char was removed they were giving a coat of wood glue and then clamped to the hull.

 After adding some tape to the bulwarks a coat of varnish was brushed on to the upper section followed by two coats of black paint.

 The final task was to add the upper rails.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 23/08/2024

Time worked today: 3 hours.

Total time spent on build: 46 hours.

 

Carronade Eyebolts and Outer Stern Board

The eyebolts which are located on the inner bulwarks for the carronades were chemically blackened. The process I use for this works well and is as follows:

 

a)      Soak the PE parts in acetone and agitate the solution for a few minutes

b)      Transfer the PE parts to a soapy hot water solution. Agitate the solution for a few minutes

c)      Rinse the PE parts and repeat a) above.

d)      Rinse the PE parts in hot water and dry.

e)      Place the PE parts in the blackening solution

f)       Place the blackened PE parts on a paper towel and pat dry.

 

After fitting all the eyebolts I decided to dry fitted the various internal cleats and belay pin racks.

The next task was to fit the Outer Stern Board. Once that was done the two rudder post cheeks were then added. They did need to be trimmed to fit. The lower section of the rudder post cheeks were also painted white to match the hull.

 The stern gunwale pattern was soaked in hot water for a few minutes and then clamped to the stern board assembly. This will be left to fully dry out before moving on to add all the gunwale patterns.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 24/08/2024

Time worked today: 2 hours.

Total time spent on build: 48 hours.

 

Gunwales and Bow Timbers

After soaking the stern gunwale in hot water for a few minutes I was happy with the fit once the clamps were removed after they had been left to dry overnight. I decided to glue this part in place using wood glue.

 

Once that was done the two gunwale patterns were painted black. I applied a coat of varnish followed by 2 coats of black paint.

 

After a couple of trial fits the gunwale patters were trimmed and then glued in place. I opted to use ca glue for this.

 

Next the two bow timbers were added to the hull after they had been painted black. The various cleats, after being painted black, were also added to the bulwarks.

I am considering adding the breach rigging to the various carronades and cannons. I do have an idea how to simplify the production and installation of the breach rigging so I will do a bit of experimentation before making a final decision.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 25/08/2024

Time worked today: 2 hours.

Total time spent on build: 50 hours.

 

Steps, Stern Surround Pattern and Catheads

The most time-consuming task today was the assembly of the 12 steps. Each step is a two-part assembly. With all the parts removed from the sheet the laser char was removed. Using wood glue each step was assembled, taking great care that the two parts were correctly aligned with each other. It was then as simple task to fix the steps to the hull using wood glue.

After a trial fit of the stern surround pattern the part was brushed with a coat of varnish followed by two coats of black paint. Using wood glue the stern surround pattern was then added to the outer face of the stern board. The back end of the gunwales (right side) does not look that good in this photo. I might tweak this at some point.

Using a triangular bladed file the gap for the catheads were opened up. A micro drill was run through the each of the cathead rigging holes, so I do have the option of using them when fitting the anchors. After the catheads were glued in place, using wood glue, the inboard parts were painted flat red to match the bulwarks.

The channels have all been test fitted, but I will add them just before I start the rigging phase.

 

As the next phase of the build is to add the various deck items which I have already built I thought it would be a good idea to see how they will look.

This is a close up of the bow & bowsprit.

A close up of the fore bitt assembly and hatch.

Now a photo with the cannons and carronades added.

Close up of the bow area with the two cannons.

Now a selection of close up photos showing the deck items and carronades.

 

 

Edited August 25 by Glenn-UK

[ECK]

Nice work.  Always a few niggling at the edges. I do think the bow 24 ponders need to face forward as the recoil at that angle would slam into the bowsprit base.

[Glenn-UK]

36 minutes ago, ECK said:

Nice work.  Always a few niggling at the edges. I do think the bow 24 ponders need to face forward as the recoil at that angle would slam into the bowsprit base.

Thanks, and the photos make the niggles look much worse than it looks to the naked eye.

 

I agree with the position of the 24 pounders, it will be a few days before I actually fix them in place.

[Knocklouder]

Wow Glen, that's amazing work, everything looks "bloody fantastic "

Bob M.      

[Glenn-UK]

32 minutes ago, Knocklouder said:

Wow Glen, that's amazing work, everything looks "bloody fantastic "

Bob M.      

Thanks Bob

I am happy with the build so far.

 

[AJohnson]

1 hour ago, Glenn-UK said:

Thanks Bob

I am happy with the build so far.

 

So you should be Glenn, looks great!

[Glenn-UK]

42 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

So you should be Glenn, looks great!

Thanks Andrew

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 26/08/2024

Time worked today: 3 hours.

Total time spent on build: 53 hours.

 

Hawse Hole Bolster, Ships Wheel, Drop Keel Winch and Ladders

First task today was to paint and then glue the two off hawse hole bolster to the hull.

Next task was to build and fit the ships wheel. There are several parts required for the ships wheel. After removing the laser char a test assembly was undertaken.

The next task was to paint the parts. I opted for a smoke black colour for the wheel assembly and black for the tops of the ships wheel side frames.

Next a dry fit of the ships wheel assembly on the deck. The 2mm dowel needs to be trimmed.

After trimming the dowel and then adding the thread the ships wheel was added to the deck. You will also note that I am in the process of test fitting the aft drop keel winch.

I have also done a test fit of the forward drop keel winch.

The final task of the day was to add the two ladders.

[ECK]

Interestingly, on the forward hatch on Plan 6 the shot holders are parallel to the bow/stern but in the instruction book they are parallel to the sides.

[Glenn-UK]

45 minutes ago, ECK said:

Interestingly, on the forward hatch on Plan 6 the shot holders are parallel to the bow/stern but in the instruction book they are parallel to the sides.

Plan 6 would make more sense. I did not look at the plan sheet and relied on the photo in the instruction manual for the alignment. I wonder which way is correct? @chris watton

Edited August 26 by Glenn-UK

[ECK]

For me, I would not want to trip or stub my toes on the cannon balls so I did it as on sheet 6

[chris watton]

14 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

Plan 6 would make more sense. I did not look at the plan sheet and relied on the photo in the instruction manual for the alignment. I wonder which way is correct? @chris watton

Damn, did I!

 

You can use whatever orientation you like, as these were added by me and as usual for garlands, are not shown on the plans. So whichever way you place them would be fine.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 29/08/2024

Time worked today: 7 hours.

Total time spent on build: 60 hours.

 

Hand Pumps, Drop Keel Winches, Belay Pin Racks and Forward Hatch

Over the last three days I have completed all the deck work, except for assembled carronades and cannons as I am still debating whether to add the breach rope rigging. In the attached photos I have included carronades and cannons but they have not been glued to the deck. I have also add the eyebolts and mast rings to the deck.

Starting with the hand pumps the various PE parts were chemically blackened. Using pins to help with the alignment the pumping mechanisms were assembled and then added to their pump bodies which was also painted black. The two completed assemblies were then added to the deck.

The two drop keels were painted, as shown in the build manual. Next eyebolts, complete with the length of 0.5mm thread were added to each drop keels. The threads were run through a block of beeswax a couple of times. I then used a hairdryer to melt the beeswax. To add a bit more rigidity to thread I ran it through a very diluted wood glue solution and dried off with the hairdryer. The free end of each thread was then fed through the hole in their respective winch drums. With each drop keel winch assembly in place on the deck the drop keel position were set, and the threads were then wrapped around their drum and the excess thread trimmed. The two assemblies were then glued to the deck.

The 6 off belay pin racks were painted black. The PE belay pins were chemically blackened and then added to the racks. The racks were then added to the inner bulwarks. I also added the shot garlands complete with shots.

The stove chimney was chemically blackened, folded and added to the forward hatch. The two anchor ropes was then added to the forward hatch. The completed hatch assembly was then glued to the deck. The anchor ropes were fed through the nearest hawse holes to the stem post.

Rudder, Tiller and channels next on the build agenda.

[AJohnson]

Love all the details coming together on deck, yours @DB789 and @ECK builds are great ‘lead’ examples for us to follow.   
A great looking and interesting vessel, hope it has sold well so far for VM. 

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, AJohnson said:

Love all the details coming together on deck, yours @DB789 and @ECK builds are great ‘lead’ examples for us to follow.   
A great looking and interesting vessel, hope it has sold well so far for VM. 

Many thanks Andrew. It is a great model to build.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 31/08/2024

Time worked today: 4 hours.

Total time spent on build: 64 hours.

 

Channels

The various channels, after a coat of varnish was applied, were painted with two coats of black paint. The deadeye strops and chainplates were chemically blackened. The deadeye strops were then test fitted in the channels

The channels were then, using wood glue, affixed to the hull. I have placed the eyebolts in the channels, but I have not glued them in as some will require thimbles and/or eyebolts seizing to them. It will be easier to do this using my quad hands before they are added to the channels.

Next it was time to fit the deadeyes to the strops. I used my pliers to gently open the gap, as shown below.

After the deadeye was inserted in the strop and aligned I used the pliers to close up the gap.

The strops, complete with deadeyes were then placed in the channels. The holes in many of the supplied 3.5mm deadeyes are not very even so I had to pick and choose the ones to use. I do have plenty of 3mm pear deadeyes, but they were a bit to small for the strops.

Next the chainplates were added. I chemically blackened the pins but I have not use them to secure the chainplates to the hull as I am waiting until after I have added the masts so I can align the chainplates with the flow of their respective shroud lines

In preparation for the rigging phase I have studied the rigging plans and charted the various belaying points as shown below. I have also indicated where blocks /thimbles are to be added to eyebolts as I find this easier to do before the eyebolts are glued in place.

Edited August 31 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 01/09/2024

Time worked today: 1 hour.

Total time spent on build: 65 hours.

 

Cannon and Carronades Breach Rope Part 1

I was unsure if I should add the breach ropes for the cannons and carronades as I thought it might be difficult to seize the breach rope to the eyebolts in situ. I did have an idea of a method which would made the process much easier to implement and as it seems to work I thought I would document the method in this post.

 

I started with a length of thread which was stiffened by running it through a block of beeswax and then melting the wax with a hair dryer to help it flow evenly over the thread.

 

An eyebolt was then seized to one end of the thread using Guttermann thread colour 612-1 (brass) for the seizing. This is a nice constrast and is similar to some of the seizing noted when visiting the HMS Trincomalee. The quad hands makes this an an easy. I used 5 simple cross over knots top and bottom for the seizing.

The thread was then added to the first cannon.

After drawing the shape of the bow on a piece of paper the required position of the other eyebolt on the thread could be determined, noting the approx. positions of the eyebolts were also marked on the drawing.

The second eyebolt was then seized to the thread, again using the quad hands.

The next photo shows the first cannon with breach rope added. The position of the eyebolts were checked again with the template.

The process works well and does not take too much time. I am reasonably happy with the end result.

It was then a case of repeating the process for the other cannon. The eyebolts and cannons have not be glued in place in the photo below. I will need to straighten the two cannons as the right-hand would, in particular, is not totally straight as can be noted in the photo below.

I am using the following picture as my point of reference for the carronade breach rope rigging. It might be correct for the Adder carronades.

Using the same process the seizing the two eyebolts have been added to the first carronade and they are now ready be checked with the template.

The first carronade, complete with the breach rope, in position is shown in the final photo of this post. The method works well and takes around 10 minutes per carronade to implement so there is about 2 hours work left to complete the remaining carronade’s.

Edited September 3 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 01/09/2024

Time worked today: 3 hour.

Total time spent on build: 68 hours.

 

Cannon and Carronades Breach Rope Part 2

I have now completed the work with regards to the carronade’s breach rope rigging. They have now all be installed on the Adder’s deck.

The next photo shows the first stage of including the breach rope on the carronades. With an eyebolt seized at one end the breach rope is added to the carronades

After the position of the other eyebolt has been determined the carronade is held in the quad hands so the seizing can be added, as shown below.

With regards to the two cannons, I also decided to also the training tackle (inhaul tackle). The training tackle was used to haul the gun back inboard to the loading position.

 

Two 2mm single blocks are required for this, one is attached to an eyebolt located at the rear of the gun carriage, and the one is hooked to an eyebolt mounted on the deck some distance behind the gun, as shown in the photo below.

I am planning to add rope coils to complete the task. I have ordered some clear plastic counters so I can make a jig which will hopefully help me create the desired rope coils.

Edited September 3 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 04/09/2024

Time worked today: 2 hour.

Total time spent on build: 70 hours.

 

Main and Foremast Manufacture.

I am now turning my attention to the main and foremast manufacture. The first task is to build the two lower platforms. Each platform comprises two parts which were glued together. I inserted the deadeye strops to ensure both parts were correctly aligned before adding a number of clamps. I also assembled the fore and main crosstrees and trestle trees.

The upper section of the main and fore masts requires shaping. The first task is to create a 4mm x 4mm square section. I did this by using a craft knife to create a flat face. Using my vernier gauge and needle file I reduced the overall thickness of the 6mm dowel to 5mm over the required area.

I then repeated the process on the opposite side so the overall thickness was 4mm. It was then a case of checking the mast would fit through the platform.

The other two faces of the dowel were flatten using the same method, so I ended up with a 4mm x 4mm square section.

Two flatten sides below the platform were also created for the mast cheeks.

The final task was to round off the very top section for the mast cap.

The two masts were then test fitted.

A coat of varnish followed by two coats of black paint were then brushed on the upper section of the masts. I did note one of the iron banding strips needs a touch of glue.

Once the iron banding had been added the final task was to add the boom saddle chock to the main mast and the belaying ring to the fore mast.

Edited September 4 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 04/09/2024

Time worked today: 2 hours.

Total time spent on build: 72 hours.

 

Main and Fore Mast Platform Work

The two lower platforms have now been painted black. 2 coats of paint were applied after a coat of varnish had been brushed on.

 

The foremast lower platform requires 6 x 3mm single blocks to be fitted, each secured via an eyelet. It takes me approx. 10 minutes to add a block to an eyebolt to a block, using the following method.

 

a)      A length of 0.5mm black thread is seized around the block using Semperfli fly tying Spyder thread.

         6 lower and upper crossover knots were used for the seizing.

b)      Once the block was seized one of the free ends of the 0.5mm is removed.

c)      An eyebolt is then fed through the remaining free end of the 0.5mm black thread.

d)      With the eyebolt in the required orientation a second layer of seizing is added using Semperfli fly tying spyder thread.

e)      The excess 0.5mm black thread is then removed.

I have added the block located on the main mast, located below the lower platform. It includes a 500mm length of 0.1mm natural thread.

I have added the deadeye and block located on the fore mast, located below the lower platform.

I have now started work on making the top and topgallant masts.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 07/09/2024

Time worked today: 2 hours.

Total time spent on build: 74 hours.

 

Main and Fore Topsail Mast Manufacture

There are some different aspects with regards to shaping the main and fore topsail masts. I thought I would document the process I used to complete this task.

 

The base material for the two topsail masts are lengths of 5mm dowel. The top section of each mast needs to be squared to 2.7mm x 2.7mm. I started by flattening the first side using a craft knife and then I used a combination of a file and sanding stick until the width had been reduced to 3.85mm.

I repeated this process on the opposite side until the width had been reduced to 2.7mm.

I then repeated this process on the two other sides to create the required 2.7 x 2.7mm square and the upper platform was test fitted.

The next section was to create the tapered section below the square section. I used a craft knife and then a combination of a file and sanding stick for this. I was not overly concerned about the untidy bottom section of this as this will be sorted when the next part of the dowel is tapered.

After checking the upper and lower dimension of the taper section with a vernier gauge the lower end cap was checked to ensure it would pass over the tapered section.

The next task was to taper the lower section of the topsail mast from 3mm at the top down to 4mm at the bottom. I used my Proxxon mini lathe for this task. I have attached a before and after photo. The bottom section of the dowel is not tapered as this will be squared off.

The upper section of the tapered topsail mast.

Next a photo showing the lower end cap can be passed down the topsail mast.

The lower section of the topsail mast needs to be squared to a 4mm x 4mm dimension. I used a sanding stick for this task.

A check was made that the lower square section would pass though the opening in the lower platform.

The very top section of the mast was then rounded off so the upper end cap would fit. The hole for the FID was also added at this stage. Once that was done 2 coats of black paint was brushed on, after a coat of varnish had been applied.

The two topsail masts were then test fitted.

Next up will be to make the main and fore topgallant masts and the bowsprit.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 10/09/2024

Time worked today: 4 hours.

Total time spent on build: 78 hours.

 

Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 1

I am currently making all the yards, booms and bowsprit. There are several stages involved with this task.

 

Stage 1 – Tapering

There are several yards, booms and bowsprit to make. I started this process by cutting the various dowels to slightly longer than the required lengths. It was then a case of applying the required tapers to each dowel. I used my Proxxon mini lathe. Once the tapering was completed, they were trimmed to the correct length. A check was made that the various PE Stunsail Boom Irons and Stunsail Boom Straps were a good fit at  the required locations.

 

The Bowsprit and Jibboom, the end cap was test fitted.

The Main and Driver Booms

The Spritsail Yard

Main and Fore Topgallant Yards

Main and Fore Topsail Yards and Stunsails

Main and Fore Yards and Stunsails

Stage 2 – Adding Octagonal Mid Sections

The central sections of the fore and main lower and topsail yards is octagonal. I used a needle file for this.

 

Stage 3 – Adding the Cleats, Cradles and Bees

The various wooden cleats, cradles and bees were added, secured with wood glue.

Stage 4 – Preparing the PE Parts

There are a number of PE parts required to added. After collecting the various PE parts they were chemically blackened as followed:

a)      Soak the PE parts in acetone for a few minutes

b)      Soak in soapy warm water for a few minutes

c)      Rinse and return to acetone solution for a few minutes

d)      Rinse and dry.

e)      Place in some burnishing fluid (AK Interactive Metal)

f)       Remove and dry.

Stage 5 Add PE Parts

I am currently in the process of completing this task. The photo below shows the Jibboom, Driver Boom, Main Boom and Spritsail Yard with the PE parts added. The spritsail yard footrope stirrups and two end eyebolts have not been glued in place but will when the footrope is to be added.

Once all the PE parts have been added the final three stages are:

Stage 6 – Painting

Stage 7 – Add blocks

Stage 8 – Add footropes

 

Edited September 10 by Glenn-UK

[Knocklouder]

Thank you so for your detailed postings, your work is awesome.  I am just doing my masts now, this is helping so much my man

 I just had to thank you,

Bob M.

[Glenn-UK]

1 minute ago, Knocklouder said:

Thank you so for your detailed postings, your work is awesome.  I am just doing my masts now, this is helping so much my man

 I just had to thank you,

Bob M.

Hello Bob

Glad you are finding my posts are helpful. My methods might not be the best way to do things but they work well for me.

 

Thanks

Glenn

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log Index

Date: 12/09/2024

Time worked today: 4 hours.

Total time spent on build: 82 hours.

 

Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 2

Work is progressing slowly and steadily on making the various yards. It is taking me some time to seize all the various blocks required to be added to the yards. It also taking me time to add the footropes.

 

The following is a description of how I added the footropes to the topgallant yards.

 

This first step was to add the footropes to the mid section of the yard. After creating a loop in one end of the two lengths of thread they were positioned on the yard and the seizing was then adjusted to close the loop.

Next a loop was formed in the free end of the first thread. My quad hands were used for this. The two photo’s below shows the before and after of this stage.

After the loop has been added to the end of the yard the position of the seizing was adjusted. I have found the best position for the seizing is as shown below.

The final task was to coat the footrope loops with diluted pva glue.

The completed topgallant yards.

The blocks have been added to the driver and main boom, as shown in the following photo.

The final photo shows the work in progress of the spritsail yard. All the blocks have been seized and are ready to be added. The footropes have been added to one end and the other ends are ready to be added, once the footrope stirrups have been added.

Edited September 12 by Glenn-UK