Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper

[rwiederrich]

Thanks Rich.  As , was with Glory of the Seas,  the Staghound is a Joint adventure.   I’m just the guy gluing it all together. 
 

Rob

Edited Sunday at 03:33 PM by rwiederrich

[rwiederrich]

10 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

    I'd might prepare the correct mast locations before decking everything in, by adding extra material on either side of the mainmast location (& the 4 corners of the new fore and mizzen locations, since they are at an intersection of frame members).  Then after decking, a drill press with the hull held in a jig (allowing for rear mast rake) and a forstner or other wood bit would make decent holes. 

I’m drilling small wood pin holes in the deck and framing bulkheads to secure the masts to.  They will work out nicely.  Good advice.  
 

Being Sunday, I only spent time finish laying the sub flooring planks. They are 3/32” thick ,  Good and sturdy. 

[rwiederrich]

The forecastle and poop decks are level with the main rail...once I add the scribed decking.  I will then add the 18" monkey rail with its cap.  I think when all is dry within...I will begin shaping and carving the molding on the rail cap.  It has a kind of carved out center....creating two lobes similar to  the planksheer molding (currently where the line is drawn).  This same trim look will be carved on the monkey rail cap as well. (The stern rail around the stern stanchions will also be carved) (at a later date).  It's these little details that set the build apart.  I need to address these issues before I paint the hull black.  As I look at it now....there are so many small details that need to occur at the same time...or there abouts.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

12 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I’m drilling small wood pin holes in the deck and framing bulkheads to secure the masts to.  They will work out nicely.  Good advice.  
 

  Pin holes for the masts ... a great idea !!  (I never thought of that.)  I'm not glueing masts into their sockets anyway, since the rigging will hold them in place AND allow for someone down the road to repair or renew the rigging later.  The masts will then be removable to do whatever work may be needed decades from now.
  A challenge is to drill is a hole for the bowsprit at the right angle, and there are examples where the vertical (or horizontal) angle is off in either direction.  A hole for pinning may just solve the problem in that location as well, and bowsprit rigging can perfect the spar angle both in the vertical and horizontal planes.  A small lathe or a drill jig can assure a central, straight pin hole in the end of the mast or bowsprit dowel.

[GrandpaPhil]

Rob,

  Your clippers are incredible!  Looking good!

Edited Monday at 03:07 PM by GrandpaPhil

[rwiederrich]

1 hour ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Pin holes for the masts ... a great idea !!  (I never thought of that.)  I'm not glueing masts into their sockets anyway, since the rigging will hold them in place AND allow for someone down the road to repair or renew the rigging later.  The masts will then be removable to do whatever work may be needed decades from now.
  A challenge is to drill is a hole for the bowsprit at the right angle, and there are examples where the vertical (or horizontal) angle is off in either direction.  A hole for pinning may just solve the problem in that location as well, and bowsprit rigging can perfect the spar angle both in the vertical and horizontal planes.  A small lathe or a drill jig can assure a central, straight pin hole in the end of the mast or bowsprit dowel.

I'll just make sure the masts are pinned after they are turned.  The pin will slip into the prepared hole in the deck.  The bottom of the mast will be cut to the appropriate rake angle.   That same angle will be drilled into the deck. When the boot is in place...you will never know.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

4 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Rob,

  Your clippers are incredible!  Looking good!

Thanks a lot Grandpa.... I have been building them for over 50 years.  Not perfect....but I do, the best I can.  I guess, I've learned to know where to *cheat*.   An still manage to pull it off.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

Removed the weights and now I have one tiny sliver left on the poop deck.  Got Bible study tonight so won’t be doing much more today.

Have a great evening.  
 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

Today's projected work schedule will include addition of the McKay *Hoods*....port and starboard.  Once they are fabricated and installed, the addition of the leading planksheer moldings will be installed atop the leading edge of the *hood*.   All the external moldings have to be installed prior to painting.  Since the scroll work is unspecified, I can assume artistic license, in this matter.  I prefer to get the external paint out of the way, prior to deck installation.  Just makes keeping things over spray clean.

 

Rob 

[rwiederrich]

Comparing the stem of my Staghound to a painting of her....You can see the extent of the prow exerting itself forward of the knightshead.  The *navel* hood and the figurehead are projecting far forward.  I think I'm in the ballpark.

 

 

Rob 

[rwiederrich]

Fabed the port hood. 
 

Rob

[ClipperFan]

5 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Comparing the stem of my Staghound to a painting of her....You can see the extent of the prow exerting itself forward of the knightshead.  The *navel* hood and the figurehead are projecting far forward.  I think I'm in the ballpark.

 

 

Rob 

Rob, that looks like a bow detail from a lovely Frank Vining Smith piece. I would appreciate seeing the entire work, as it looks quite colorful. Once again, this structural work demonstrates McKay's nautical design brilliance. It may even go back to his designing and building fishing boats in Nova Scotia. Those vessels had to be sturdy and tough for the type of work they were employed in. Here, we see the cutwater as the central backbone of the prow. Then two navel hoods sandwich this piece identically on both sides with the lower level of the cutwater extending the prow while doing double-duty as a sturdy base for figureheads. Meanwhile, the triple layered devices above provide a more than stable base for the massive bowsprit-jibboom just above while also providing a mounting point for the back of a figurehead and giving shelter at the same time. If you look at the Scottish tea clipper Cutty Sark you'll see that her bowsprit-jibboom mount above her bow and not into the built-up hull as in American clippers. Maybe that design philosophy was a difference too. 

[rwiederrich]

Both sides are done.  Now to finish the plank sheet molding. 

[rwiederrich]

A little scroll work. 
 

Rob

[ClipperFan]

9 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Both sides are done.  Now to finish the plank sheet molding. 

Rob, those beautifully done navel hoods really extend the prow of your Staghound and give her a genuine clipper bow. One observation I offer is that on your original outline, the cutwater had a higher curve which appears to accentuate this feature a little more gracefully. It also more accurately reflects McLean's statement that this piece appeared to descend in unbroken curvature until it blended with the waterline. The end depth where it provides a mount for the figurehead is fine.

[rwiederrich]

Rich.  I see what you are saying....however, after great reflection and profiling from every painting we have of her....it appears to me that the correction I performed makes her stem more of the upward angle also described by McLean, "The cutwater is tapered to an angle".

 

Are you suggesting I cut it back to my original curve?  Back to the original stem line, I had originally cut...without the addition?   I supose I could cut the stem back half way...to mimic more like Glory.

 

Rob

Edited 4 hours ago by rwiederrich