La Reale de France by Ferrus Manus - Heller - 1/75 - the Sun King's finest ship

Ferrus Manus · August 22

I made the frames for the canot in the same way as the caique. There are 18 frames grand total, the same number as there are in the caique.

Ferrus Manus · August 22

The canot is painted in the same colors as the caique:

There are still a few things to be painted, and then it's on to the hull details.

Ferrus Manus · August 24

The finished canot:

The only thing I found frustrating about the canot was the fact that the metal glue I bought specifically for use on the anchor I made worked arguably worse than super glue, which is itself abysmal for metal-on-metal connections. I had to abandon the second set of anchor arms for that reason.

The canot will be placed on the gallows angled inward toward the center line, which makes sense for lowering and raising the boat. Heller claims the canot is actually meant to rest on the forward portion of the center catwalk. This makes no sense for two reasons: 1. this makes the catwalk unusable, especially during combat engagements. 2. the Landstrom book claims that both boats were usually towed (which makes sense for the era) and could optionally be raised onto the gallows when not used. I have seen some modelers make a second set of gallows specifically for the canot. I do not believe this was on a Reale model specifically, but large galleys were so standardized by this point that I don't think it would matter.

Ferrus Manus · August 24

The only other work that needs to be done on the hull that isn't related to rigging is the ladders and the swivel guns, both of which I have elected to save until after the rigging is completed. That means it's time to start working on the masts.

Making and dry-fitting the masts was easy:

Fitting out the masts will be less easy. This is mostly because of how Heller believes the shrouds work. In the outer catwalks are a grand total of 16 holes. Heller says these holes are for eyebolts that serve as anchors for the shrouds.

The issue is the fact that the slightest gust of wind against the mainsail would tear up the shrouds on the windward side. This is why I have a better idea. My idea is to widen the holes and anchor 16 lengths of chain into the hull itself via eyebolts, and connect the other ends of the chains to the bottom blocks of the shrouds.

I recognize the fact that most builders use blackened brass strips to make chainplates for this.

Edited August 24 by Ferrus Manus

Louie da fly · August 26

Interesting developments in this build. The canot looks very good. As far as where it should be stored, I really don't know, but I do have this picture that may or may not be relevant.

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This is from Conrad von Grunenburg's illustrated record of his 1487 pilgrimage to the Holy Land and judging by the flag, the ship belongs the the Kingdom of Jerusalem (which no longer really existed in fact, after the Crusaders were ousted from Jerusalem in the late 13th century but still maintained a Kingdom in Exile for a long time afterward, based, IIRC, in Cyprus. I don't know how much credence should be given this (sole) picture of a canot lashed to the starboard quarter of a galley - after all, it has some other details I find hard to believe, such as those swivel guns mounted above the oars (how would you use them? Wouldn't they get in the way?) and an anchor which appears to be fouling quite a number of oars.

Your idea with the chains sounds good. I've hit a similar problem with my San Marco ship - basically didn't think of the forces involved until too late - but I'd already committed myself and I wasn't prepared to rip everything off and start again. Nobody but a ship modeller will spot the problem, and if you don't tell anyone, I won't either

Steven

Ferrus Manus · August 26

Last bit of weekend work on the Reale.

I cut down 16 of my eyebolts (6 pictured) and saved the rest for use as the metal toggles for the upper blocks of the shrouds.

After that, I slid the last links of the chains/blocks I had prepared earlier today onto the eyebolts.

I proceeded to tie the standing ends of the halyards onto the blocks and anchor everything down into the holes I drilled.

Nothing looks as bad in real life as it does in pictures. I only finished the port side today. There are two chainplates that lead to something other than normal shrouds on each side, so 4 in total. The first shroud pair is actually some sort of running whip-and-tackle stay that involves a single block and two double blocks, the standing end of which is not the chainplate. The chainplate anchors the bottom double block. The fifth chainplate from fore anchors the bottom double block for one of the two parrel tackles. You can see these differences in the pictures. Neither of these rigging elements are shown in the painting, but I think something related to a parrel line belays just forward of the main mast.

The next job is the anchoring of all the starboard chainplates.

Edited August 29 by Ferrus Manus

Ferrus Manus · August 27

Today's work involved the setting up of the starboard chainplates, exactly as was done on the port side.

Ferrus Manus · August 27

The work on the masts continued today. I took both masts out, assembled and installed their calcets, and put them back in to see how they looked. I fixed up the calcets beforehand by puttying over the ugly indentations.

I ran sandpaper over the entirety of the mast assemblies to make my life easier down the road, to my great satisfaction later. Painting the masts was actually not that hard because of my sanding.

Now, on to the second issue: This might be the first and only time I have actually agreed with Heller's instructions regarding rigging. This is how Heller sets up the forward shroud:

If I remember correctly, 72Nova used a simpler double block tackle without the runner. I think the runner and tackle is more effective for this job because the crew has more control over the tension on the mast. Instead of any change in tension of the double block tackle being applied directly to the mast, it instead has to travel through another block/tackle system first. The only issue is where to belay the standing end of the runner.

I can do this one of two ways. I can either make a hook and hook the line onto the uppermost chain link with the line for the lower double block, or I can run the line through the hole and belay it on the eyebolt that attaches to the hull. The problem with this is that the line would foul on the hole and the chain. So, option 1 it is.

Edited August 27 by Ferrus Manus

72Nova · August 27

Looking good, post #127 in my build log shows the runners.

Michael D

Ferrus Manus · August 27

It seems as though you belayed the runner on an eyebolt directly aft of the chainplate and the lanyard on a cleat to the fore.

72Nova · August 27

The runner is hooked to an eye bolt and you are correct regarding the tackle.

Michael D.

Ferrus Manus · August 28

I did a simpler version of this.

I chose to go with the logic of the actual shrouds and both hook and belay to the chain itself.

This was the result:

I think it's not bad. The noticeable curve in the mainmast and now-excessive forward rake will both be rectified by putting in the aft shroud pair first.

Ferrus Manus · August 28

I added the shrouds after getting the tackles done. The ship is now becoming a "rat's nest" at least temporarily.

The work I have done on the aft shrouds has corrected the two issues I talked about earlier. In other news, I made my first proper seizing using Olha Batchvarov's technique. The reason this is my first is I can't seem to get my small line to do this.

I would like to get at least most of the rest of the main shrouds done tomorrow.

Ferrus Manus · August 29

I managed to get the rest of the standing rigging done on the main mast today, minus rope coils.

Ian_Grant · August 29

Ferrus, you are setting a world record on time for this model. Wow!

Ferrus Manus · August 29

That's interesting, because I have been trying specifically to take my time and put more effort into the smaller details on this one. I can't sacrifice quality on a model like the Reale, even though I don't think I can get it to truly professional standards.

Ferrus Manus · August 31

I have gotten started with the fore shrouds. Getting the eyebolts to stay in their holes was a challenge, but it worked out fine. I have not taken pictures of the rope coils I made and affixed to the main shrouds, but they did get done.

Louie da fly · September 2

This is coming along very nicely. Your skills are improving from one model to the next. Nice work, mate!

Steven

Ferrus Manus · September 4

I got the fore shrouds done a couple days ago, and I am now working on the yards. In order to complete the rope coils for the fore shrouds, I need to go to the model shop and get medium thickness tan thread, as well as medium brown thread for other stuff, namely the yard lashings. I also need cleats.

Edited September 4 by Ferrus Manus

Ferrus Manus · September 6

The modelling I have done in the past few days includes making up the yards (including their lashings) and making and installing the ship's ladders.

Next up is the construction and mounting of about 30 cleats, plus a few kevels, and a bunch of eyebolts.

Ferrus Manus · September 7

I made the 30 cleats that this model will need. There might be a few extras by the time I'm done. The main braces and sheet will belay to kevels, as well as both fore and main lifts. That means 8 kevels, which I have not made up yet. Other than that, not much to report.

I hope they look halfway decent when I paint them. I guess they'll be covered in rope anyway.

Ferrus Manus · September 10

The latest bout of modeling for these last few days has been the painting and installation of the cleats and kevels. I have also put in all but a couple of the eyebolts. Some of them have loops to accept the toggles of the braces. I also developed a solution for some of the woes Michael D. had with the main lift.

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The last picture shows a small hole below the port side main lift sheaves. This is replicated on the starboard side. These holes will accept eyebolts on which the standing ends of the main lift halyards are tied.

Ferrus Manus · September 12

Yesterday and today, I did some work on the foresail. I drew the lines in the sail on silkspan, cut the sail out, and stained it. I then bent it to the yard. What I would like to achieve either today or tomorrow is getting the reef points in. The next thing will be to do the fore lift, and then the rigging for the yard. Afterwards, I will rig the sheet line. My plan at that point is to brush highly diluted white glue onto the sail and leave it in front of a desk fan for a couple hours. Then, it's on to the two sets of crow's feet and the brails. This will involve application of either white glue or super glue, as all these lines are slack.

Ferrus Manus · September 12

I will likely rig the main lift at least partially in order to make the space to belay the fore lift before we get to that point.

Ferrus Manus · September 13

I got the reef points done today. This involved cutting two-inch lengths of rope, putting super glue in the middle, and folding them over. Then, the rope lengths (which looked like a very narrow "v" at this point) were slid into the holes I had put into the silkspan and glued in place using white glue. This is the result:

I am just now discovering the value of backlighting sails for photos. One thing I have always hated about my small-diameter tan rigging thread is its tendency to blend in with the color of a sail, which prevents it from being easily visible from a distance. So, what I did to remedy that was paint the lines in a 50/50 tan/brown paint mixture, highly diluted. This was done along the lines of @kirill4's advice and the example of his Galleon. This will likely be what I do from here on out with running lines, on all subsequent models.

What I will also likely get done tonight is putting the rest of the holes in the sail for rigging. I might also do some of the toggles on the clew and top.

Ferrus Manus · September 13

White glue is easily controllable with a toothpick and stays wet for longer, which is why I will begin using it for high-risk areas, like on a sail. I end up having issues with super glue stains on at least one sail of almost every model I have made using silkspan sails. These are visible both in photos and in real life.

Edited September 13 by Ferrus Manus

Ferrus Manus · September 13

I have stained all lengths of line for the foresail.

The problem is with the medium-diameter lengths of line. Because of how they were wrapped around a flat spool, they will not be willing to obey a catenary curve on their own. (A catenary curve is the natural effect of gravity on a slack line.) For that reason, I have chosen to inundate them in white glue and apply tension to get the kinks out. I have seen multiple other modelers do this to great success.

Making progress:

All lengths of medium line will have this done. In fact, I might just do this with large lengths of this line off-ship before even cutting them to size. This is because I have an issue with this line when taut as well. Taut lines of this rope tend to want to twist when tension is applied, tangling tackles, etc. If the strands of rope are held together with white glue, this might not happen. The medium-thickness tan line will be used for the three continuous lines on the lower part of the yard, the lift halyards, and the standing ends of the braces and vangs.

Louie da fly · September 14

I find that leaving the thread to hang with weights on the end (as you do) but without glue eventually takes the kinks/curl out, but it does take awhile. Once that's done, impregnating the thread with a solution of PVA glue and water allows it to hang in a catenary curve if you support both ends, and it dries with the curve intact.

Coming along nicely.

Steven