Lady Nelson by flyenrw - Amati/Victory Models -1:64th scale

[Danstream]

10 hours ago, flyenrw said:

In my opinion,  this area of assembly is a necessary total redo.

Indeed, this is the natural conclusion. I will redo it as well, so I am not bothering more than necessary. I suggest you inspect the pictures of period models of British cutters published in this forum (if you have not seen them yet) to get inspiration about plausible configurations for the new pieces:

In addition, I visited the build log of a Lady Nelson model built by @glbarlow, who discussed the problem and re-built the parts in subject (but probably this issue had been treated also by other modelers). You could have a look also on that.

Cheers,

Dan

[glbarlow]

On 9/30/2024 at 12:45 PM, flyenrw said:

Possibly I'll be able to find a pedestal

There are multiple heights of that same style brass pedestals available. I used two different ones on my model. 
 

I did scratch build a few of the deck furniture as the kit supplied ones are horribly out of scale, as described in my log. 
 

Nice work for a first model, you’re doing great. 

Edited November 1 by glbarlow

[flyenrw]

Thar she blows!

An Easy mod to the Bowsprit support! 

By lowering the horizontal support, measuring from the bottom,  9mm up to the bottom first cut of new notches , ( included in that dimension, is the tab that fits into the deck ), I filled the original notches with the same wood from the laser cut sheet and cut the two new notches. Leaving the original Square hole to provide a top of the Bowsprit support.

I had noticed in my searches for bowsprit supports,  that a top support as such shown,  wasn't uncommon, so it made no sense to remove it, also by leaving it, it adds an additional detail.

Yet to be done will be to cut the taper into the dowel and drill a cross hole to pin the Bowsprit to the support frame.

Shown temporarily assembled for illustration and now ready for glue. 

 I'll drill the cross holes for a Bowsprit pin, thru the frame sides and Bowsprit, using a tooth pick dowel to secure it in place.

By this simple mod, the original pieces could be retained, and achieve the proper angle for the bowsprit to follow.

 

 

 

[flyenrw]

Well, I thought I would take a break from the build , per se!

The inner shipwright kept knocking, until I answered with, well, OK...I'll do it!

While prepping bulwark and cap rail wood pieces for painting and a sundry part exploration, I gave a shot at artistic license and decided to bling my companionway.

With painting, hinges and door pulls yet to finish, I envisioned a little more external detail for this thing and donned my Squirrel suit and went flying.

It was all of 3-4 hours, a couple mistakes, words that can't be mentioned, a complete re-do's of the front and doors and the finished product materialized!

 

I have a few more chosen victims such as this, that I have planned to be changing, but this is what makes a hobby for me.

 

In brief, the four sided shell was built and then, simply laminated with the wooden strips. For the vertical boards, I beveled the four edges, with 400 grit paper,  to provide for a little detail and visual space.

Because of the increased widths of the sides , I cut a new top, to include an overlap.

I used wood, from left over kit wood,  to cover and complete the companionway.

 

[Danstream]

Good to see that you resumed work on the Lady. Nice elaboration of the companionway, it really looks the part.

Cheers,

Dan

[JGoff]

I love the detail on the companionway. You (and Dan) are really elevating this build, and I look forward to what’s next. 

[flyenrw]

Things that make you go Hum!

I couldn't find how the ( Pawl ) would actually work , using the kit supplied anchor winch.

Any feedback or guidance would be welcome!

I understand the holes being used as an insert for a pole to leverage rotation, but what and how is the Pawl part of this particular winch with holes?

 

As I researched how winches were built, I see a ratchet gear with a PAWL, as the design I kind of followed.

So I abandoned the idea of using the kit supplied winch and happened to find this Amati brand Winch used and  modified for using the PAWL and ratchet.

 

I wanted to show how the PAWL actually engaged into a ratchet. 

 

Making this piece was a all out Toboggan ride! I got into it and before I knew it, dinner was ready!

 

I didn't stop until the ideas I had,  came together as you see it pictured.

So I didn't take a second to offer step by step pictures, but a brief description will describe how simple it really was to make.

 

I took a 1/16 square stock basswood strip and fashioned it into a triangle, sanding it in half. The teeth of the ratchet are made from that triangle and were cut  2mm wide and fitted between the center rings.

 

  All you need here is a ton of patience and a very steady hand. I have the patience, but not a steady hand!

The wood strips that the anchor line will rap around, are made from walnut 1 x 1mm Strips.

The Amati little kit gives you short strip of wood.  I wanted the full width of the opening where they are glued to the winch spindle, so I discarded the wood and replaced it with a custom size.

The finishes are: the same deck wash for the spindle as my decking , a dull black paint for the gear with a small wash of rust to soften the black further.

When the frame to hold the spindle is ready for install, it will be painted red , as the inside Bulwark.

 

Edited November 20 by flyenrw

[Danstream]

Very nice, I think that your interpretation is correct, certainly much more plausible. I will see what to do when I will be there. By the way, anyone knows where are the poles used for actioning the pawl stored on the deck (or one can assume that they are stored under the deck)?

Best regards,

Dan

[flyenrw]

I've now started on the deck furniture as we ship lovers call it and need to formulate a game plan for putting all these bits and pieces in their place after having the paint finished in some areas first!

I'm not one of those that has a dozen pictures on the wall and clutter piled up in the corner, but 
I do enjoy detail, so after having a look around at similar Cutters, I found a few features I have decided to add to my build. Some shown below and a few yet to be made!

Having started with the anchor winch, I decided to add some external boarding steps and on deck steps to the bulwark.

I've looked at some ready made stanchions, but I will give a hand drill assist turning of a brass rod a try first!, in order to make the boarding hand holds used a top the cap rail.

There is paint to be applied, pieces to be glued in place and lots of detail taping yet to be done

In the mean time,  I wanted to share what I felt was an easy detail to add to the out board and inboard side of the ship, which are the steps.

Outboard steps were made from scrap wood, 1 x 2mm for the tread and a 1x1 mm under the tread for extra detail, then adding a couple of angle cuts, face on and top down.

The 1x1mm under the tread suffices to add a little more depth and detail.

The inside ladder is a little more fiddly, using 1 x 3mm,   but once the jig pictured is made it  aligns the treads for the side rails, which then can be attached. 

A close look to the chain plates,  is a modification of an Amati chain plate cut to size and drilled , ready to be Blackened and mounted. I modified the wood surround to accommodate these beefier pieces!

 

 

[flyenrw]

I realized that after dinner I hadn't included the pictures of the deck ladder jig and basic assembly.

This was a hogg-pogg of different ideas I had come across, while researching how others had made ladders.

So in a nut shell, after establishing the ladder rung spacing of 2mm ,  I made the rungs and stiles from 1 x 3mm strip.

To make the jig, I glued small blocks of 2 x3mm to a footing at an angle of the ladder resting against the Bulwark for the rungs to be horizontal.

After they were glued in place, I then sanded the height of the wood blocks to insert of the steps snugly against a strip of wood glued across the top of the blocks, capturing each rung snugly at the proper angle.

I blocked up the bottom so that when the rungs were inserted, they would vertically rest even across one edge, so that the other side would be ready to glue it's stile in place.

When one side stile had dried properly, I removed the half ladder, to finish and glue the other stile to complete the ladder framing.

Finish was sealed with thin CA, sanded smooth with 400 grit, ready for painting.

 

Edited December 6 by flyenrw