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Posted (edited)

Got the broad strake on. Some of this might go a bit quicker from now on. 
 

I am rubbing a pencil along the bottom edge and stern edge of each plank (and the front edge of the ones going into the bow). I read that if you do all the edges of all the planks then it’s too dark. This makes a subtle line. I also followed a tip to have the back of the plank facing you while rubbing the edge - that way if you slip you mark the back of the plank rather than the front. 
 

I also (after a mistake) followed the advice to make the planks a little too large (higher and longer) since it’s easy to remove (cut or sand) but you can’t add. Also trying to add a bit of a bevel where planks come together. 

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Edited by palmerit
Posted

The next step is to divide in 1/3s between the top of the broad strake and the bottom of the wale and to check the lines. I think it’s okay. 

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Posted

I adjusted a bit. Probably going to follow the recommendation and sleep on it and check again tomorrow sometime. 

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Posted

I plotted out where the planks should go, following the instructions. 

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Posted

Made more (slow) progress with the planking. I found that I needed to drop a plank early at the bow and don’t need to seem to need to use a stealer at the stern, opposite to the instructions. 

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Posted
On 10/25/2024 at 8:42 PM, palmerit said:

Actually had to mark the topline - I used some 2mm tape. Will use my dremel to remove excess. 

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how did you mark the top line? i am struggling getting mine to look right before sanding

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18th Century Merchant half hull planking - NRG

 

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Norwegian Sailing Pram - Model Shipways

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Posted
12 minutes ago, Jim M said:

how did you mark the top line? i am struggling getting mine to look right before sanding

I just matched the line on the plans, using a square to mark the position (just like I did with the wale). I think one of the frame pieces was too short so I adjusted everything down. Ultimately, I was more concerned about have a nice line than perfectly matching the plans. I used a Dremel to cut down but then switched to 100/180 grit sanding sticks to fare the top of the frames to maintain a (hopefully) nice line. I might need to adjust again when I get close to finishing off the top of the hull.

Posted
49 minutes ago, palmerit said:

I just matched the line on the plans, using a square to mark the position (just like I did with the wale). I think one of the frame pieces was too short so I adjusted everything down. Ultimately, I was more concerned about have a nice line than perfectly matching the plans. I used a Dremel to cut down but then switched to 100/180 grit sanding sticks to fare the top of the frames to maintain a (hopefully) nice line. I might need to adjust again when I get close to finishing off the top of the hull.

 

@palmerit Very nice, that is what I did too. I just now to get my new Dremel broken in and sand down the top line. I have some pictures to post to update my status laster today. I also marked my whale lines early on the side of the bulkheads to make it easier after fairing. Did you fair with your Dremel or all by hand?

In progress

18th Century Merchant half hull planking - NRG

 

In queue

Norwegian Sailing Pram - Model Shipways

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Model Shipways

Peterborough Canoe  - Midwest Products/Model Shipways

Batelina - MarisStella

 

Completed

Model Shipways Lowell Grand Banks

Grand Bank Dory - Midwest Products/Model Shipways

Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, Jim M said:

Did you fair with your Dremel or all by hand?

I faired all by hand, mainly using flexible wide sanding sticks (along most of the hull) and 100 / 180 grit sand paper by hand at the stern near the counter. I wouldn't trust myself with a Dremel. I used my Dremel a bit on my Sherbourne because the faring lines were marked and those pieces could be fared before being installed (I didn't Dremel right up to the mark, but near it). Most of the hull doesn't need a Dremel. I suppose the stern end could have been fared a certain amount with a Dremel since you need to remove quite a bit. It's just that the Dremel can sometimes bounce around and I could imagine inadvertently damaging something like the sternpost. I protected it and the keel etc. with tape, but tape won't protect those pieces from a Dremel.

 

As I noted, as have others, the stern end near the counter really needs a lot of work to get right. I actually printed out some photos of what it should like like to have on hand nearby. Faring took an entire weekend, lots of hours. I recommend doing a bunch of faring before gluing in the counter. But get the counter shaped right (both so it takes on a curve and so it fits) so that you can fit it in and you can mark where to fare the last frame pieces (then remove and set aside so it doesn't get in the way of faring the last frame pieces). I ended up faring the last frame piece too much because I misread the instructions and then had to add wood (and wood filler) back and start over. Definitely take your time on the stern end, look at a bunch of photos, and put some marks on the limits of the faring.

Edited by palmerit
Posted

Finished the planking. Still need to add trim pieces, add the 2nd layer of the wale, and do final sanding. There’s some glue/sawdust mixture in a few last gaps. Turned out ok overall. 
 

I decided not to add the quarter deck molding because of how my planks were laying. 
 

I’m deciding how to finish it. I’m thinking I’ll do just sanding sealer and WOP on the bare wood. I’m planning to tape off most of the wood to air brush the black trim and wale. I’ll also be painting the inside black (so taping off the entire hull will also prevent the paint from the inside coming out to the hull). 

 

 

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Posted

Nearing completion. Still need some final sanding and need to airbrush the trim to paint. I ended up adding some thicker trim on the stern than I’ve seen on other models to try to cover up some nasty parts. 
 

This is definitely a lot better planking job than I did on my Sherbourne and this is single planked. I guess this is technically my third planking, but I don’t think the Dory really counts. So I’ll say my second planking. 
 

The stern end is definitely the toughest part. I’ll know more what might be going on in a future model after this experience. 
 

I also didn’t quite fair the bow end quite right. There’s a bit of an elbow. And the rabbet/mortice probably should have been a bit deeper. It’s definitely tough getting the ends just right. 

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Posted

Nice job! I definitely had to deepen the bow rabbet on mine. Getting the curves right at the bow and stern is a challenge, but now you'll have a better idea of what to expect for future builds.

Posted

One final - major - lesson learned. 
 

I should have remembered that these basswood strips are not only soft but very very thin. Thin makes them easy to shape. Thin also makes them easy to sand through.

 

I didn’t realize that the discoloration near the bow was because I was sanding through to the support structure. The discoloration was pen marks I made on the support structure when laying out the planks. Ugh. 
 

I could take these planks off and redo them certainly. But I think I’m just going to move on and treat this as a learning experience. 
 

I will do one coat of WOP and then remove from the foam board. I’ll bring to my office for a shelf. But I’m nixing any thought of mounting and displaying. 

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  • The title was changed to 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit by palmerit - FINISHED - NRG - 1:48
Posted

Okay, so given that this is a lesson, I decided I’ll use it as a lesson to see if I can remove planks and redo (even though the rest of the planking is done). Knowing I can do it might be useful in the future (say if I damage the hull or something). We’ll see how this goes. I started with a new scalpel blade to cut out several runs of planks. I started a bit this morning. 

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Posted

Good luck on the repair! If nothing else, it will be good practice. I know I've seen a few build logs where people had to replace planks after accidentally wearing through them on the final sanding, so I know it can be done, but it certainly looks challenging.

Posted

I did some rebuilding, removing some planks, adding some new planks, and resending. It looks better than it did when I sanded through the planks to the frames. 
 

My next planking, I’m going to try to taper planks towards the bow with an eye to keeping them closer to the same dimensions and work harder to get them to lay better in the rabbet. On the “do over” I was a bit more impatient to just be done and move to the next thing. I was sufficiently unhappy with other parts that I had already decided not to mount it. I’ll probably set it on a high shelf in my work office. 

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Posted

Very nice job on a tricky repair! You mention being unhappy with it, but I think it looks much better and is work to be proud of.

Posted
21 minutes ago, JacquesCousteau said:

Very nice job on a tricky repair! You mention being unhappy with it, but I think it looks much better and is work to be proud of.

Thanks! I guess I mean “sufficiently happy to want to go to the trouble of mounting and framing and hanging in our house”. I was happy enough to prop it up on a shelf in my office just now. 

Posted

Nice fix @palmerit

In progress

18th Century Merchant half hull planking - NRG

 

In queue

Norwegian Sailing Pram - Model Shipways

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Model Shipways

Peterborough Canoe  - Midwest Products/Model Shipways

Batelina - MarisStella

 

Completed

Model Shipways Lowell Grand Banks

Grand Bank Dory - Midwest Products/Model Shipways

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