Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Ok. So I started my Syren a few days ago and things are going well except for a few small difficulties.  I had a nasty warp in the bulkhead former which I struggled with for a couple days. I finally got most of it worked out with some water and an old sealing iron I use when covering the RC aircraft I fly. However, there is still a little twist I need to get out towards the stern.


I have been closely following and reviewing the great Syren builds that are up  on MSW and they have been great. However I have a question I would appreciate some help with.


I am about to attach the bulkheads to the Former and was planning on ( as suggested in the directions)  using filler blocks between the bulkheads to straighten out the little twist I still have in the bulkhead former. However , as I read the directions one is supposed to fair the hull with the bulkheads only temporarily in place. After this step then one is to glue in the bulkheads and proceed with the addition of the filler blocks. Ok, after that huge introduction, my question is; if I fair the hull first then straighten out the warp ( with filler blocks) after I glue the bulkheads wont that throw everything off?


My intention was to just glue everything in, add in the fillers to get rid of my warp then worry about fairing the hull.


Maybe I have just been looking at this to long. I don't know why it seems so difficult. My head hurts and I am starting to dream about bulkheads and rabetts   :P  Anyway, I would appreciate some input .  Thanx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Charley!


Always best to do your thinking before you grab the glue or sandpaper.  I built Syren but still had to go down and dig out the instructions before I sent you a reply.


Chuck has had the bulkheads pre-marked with approximate fairing or bevel lines scribed on one face.  He instructs to remove some of that material prior to fairing the hull.  That's a good idea.  Then it does get, at least to me, a little murky when it is suggested to temporarily fit the bulkheads to the former and do the actual fairing.  To me, that wasn't where I wanted to go.


So after the off-ship pre-trimming of the bulkheads, I squared them up and glued them in.  Then glued in the filler blocks making sure the bulkhead former was dead straight.  Then I went to the typical fairing, checking all along with some planks to see the run of things.  It's the only way I could think of to make sure everything was true.


That's my experience, hope it helps.  Take you time on the fairing.  Things depend on it later.



Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64


Previous Builds :


US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice Augie. This is the way I was thinking but its nice to get  some confirmation.


I found this site right at the end of your build log and have really picked up a lot from yours as well as all the other Syren builds I have found. What a great service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been reading the instructions downloaded from model expo, and that confused me also. I would of thought you would have to glue and make sure everything is square before fairing, as I thought the process of fairing would move the bulkheads if they are not fixed.




Current Build - US Brig Syren - Model Shipways - 1:64 - 1st wood build


Armed Virginia Sloop with complimentary 8x paint MS paint set - Model Shipways - Ordered 31st October 2013

Victory Cross Section - Corel - Ordered 15th October

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are many way to do this...I just described the one that I use.  I find it easier to fair a bit before gluing.  Especially when you have the angles pre-determined somewhat.  Then do the last bit once the are glued into position.  I find it easier to do when I can hold the bulkheads in my hand to tweak them.   But it is of course no the only way.   I dont think anyone should read a "how-to" and feek it is the only way.  Just one written example of how one person did it.  You should always try the method that is most comfortable for you.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input Chuck, I guess its just first ship jitters. Anyway, I just did it the way that felt right and its turning out pretty good. At least I finally got rid of the wicked twist/warp. The filler blocks took care of that. I must say I love the kit  and I am having a blast



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I did as one author did. I did most of my sanding before adding any glue... I then did the final sanding, and sanding, and more sanding after I had glued the bulkheads into place and had my filler blocks in place. This also seemed to be stiffer and gave a more solid base to sand with.

Edited by McSpuds

Group Build - Triton Cross Section

Abandoned -  USS Syren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My build log from from MSW1.0 is lost but when I did this I made my glue blocks to where they were within a few thousandths of an inch of ideal. I'm really anal - I do everything with a digital caliper. But by doing this my glue blocks when placed in position would stay without any glue. This press-fit of all the glue blocks not only took the warp out of my bulkhead former, but allowed me to take out and then replace any bulkheads that needed extra fairing. I did this because I was new to ship model building and didn't know any better, but on the next model I'm sure I'll do it this way again. The little time that I spent in making the glue blocks more than made up for the time spent in straightening and fairing

Current build: US Brig Syren (MS)


Larry Van Es

Former President


Ship Modelers Association

Fullerton California



trip 134

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...