Using styrene for making structures on modern ships

[JKC27]

As the ships I model are the large ships that service the Great Lakes, these are all steel construction.  No big deal on the hull - it's a wood model of a steel ship, so that's not an issue.

 

When it comes to building the various decks (most are now all at the rear of the ship, while some older ships have both fore and aft) I have used card stock with pretty good success, but prefer using styrene sheets cut to the proper sizes to build the walls of each deck, then stack them together accordingly.

 

My frustration with using either material is cutting out the windows....  I've been using a #11 exacto, but even with drawing out the proper lines, etc. it can be a real test of patience to cut the windows out and have all the edges like right.  Card stock gets a little flimsy pretty quick, styrene I find can bend inwards a bit, but you can also make the cut too large with both mediums.  I've been using .020 styrene.  I know the thicker you go, that harder it would be to cut, but there might be a better way for me to perfect this part of my skill set.......

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!    See attached pics to see what the cream of the crop looks like.....   this is what I strive for, as I only have been at this for about 5 years now, and it's only when I have time after work, or on weekends when I have time between other things in life like errands, housework, spending time with my wife, etc.....

 

First 2 pics are in the museum in Toledo, OH - the next couple are some of my recent builds - both were card stock.  Last one, my current build is styrene.

 

 

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 01:36 PM by JKC27

[Srodbro]

Much depends, I suppose, on the scale to which you are working. On my Fra Berlanga ( approx 1:100), I modeled the structure of wood and styrene, applied clear plastic painted on the reverse with black, then used styrene “ angle iron” strips to detail framing around each window.

 

If I was working at a smaller scale, I might cut a window hole as well as I could, then trim around the individual opening, maybe with card strips, or ( what I have become enamored with lately) aluminum tape ( as used by insulation and sheet metal workers) painted, cut to size with scissors and applied around the opening. 

[JKC27]

The scale I use is 1/192 or 1/200, and these are ships that are generally 740ft or slightly shorter in the real word, so parts tend to get quite small.  Even the windows.  My first build I tried using vinyl that was cut into small squares, but again......it is hard to replicate the sizes and make everything looks "square".

 

I've yet to find a punch set with the correct size/shape as well, or I'd consider using that.

[Keith Black]

 Jack, for cutting out windows I use x-Acto chisel blades, #17 and #18. I use the #18 for lengthy straight cuts. i use them when cutting thin plywood, I've not used styrene but have used card stock. I can't imagine styrene being any different as far as cutting. The #17 is a bit flimsy but it's smaller blade lets one get into tighter places. 

 

 The below Amazon links are only examples, there are many online and craft/hobby shops to purchase the chisel blades. 

 

 I work at 1:120 scale.

 

https://www.amazon.com/SMB-Precision-Chisel-Hobby-Blades/dp/B08TT18QQ8/ref=asc_df_B08TT18QQ8?mcid=27ffb4ea70bc39b5af1acc1ce8e7da8d&hvocijid=13814306576539214645-B08TT18QQ8-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13814306576539214645&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019476&hvtargid=pla-2281435176898&th=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/Excel-Blades-Chisel-American-Replacement/dp/B0006O5JSI/ref=asc_df_B0006O5JSI?mcid=dda5604c2df03aa0b76cae351291c2de&hvocijid=17397267249205664909-B0006O5JSI-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17397267249205664909&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019476&hvtargid=pla-2281435177898&psc=1

Edited Wednesday at 04:00 PM by Keith Black

[TOM G]

1 hour ago, Keith Black said:

Jack, for cutting out windows I use x-Acto chisel blades

That's the way to go.👍

[wefalck]

Well, people tend to confuse 'scale' with 'size'. It doesn't really matter at what scale you are working, the size of features, both small and large can matter ...

 

Obviously, the thicker the material, the more difficult it is to cut it with a scalpel. On the other hand, with thin material, it is more difficult to correct cuts by filing or sanding. If you are working at 1/200 scale a sheet of 0.02" (=0.5 mm) thickness would translate to walls o 4" (= 100 mm) thickness, which would be quite formidable, even if in wood. So chosing thinner material will make your life easier from a cutting point of view.

 

Perhaps you should reconsider your construction technique. I assume that you use the styrene sheet as structural material, i.e. you are building a hollow structure? Unless you want to show some interior details, it may be a good idea to build a structure from wood or thicker styrene and clad this with 0.01" styrene sheet into which you can cut the window etc. openings.

 

For me the reason to use styrene sheet would be mainly that it looks more like steel when painted, than most efforts of filling and sanding wood.

 

When laying out the styrene for cutting, I would use a sharp scriber to mark the window openings. The scribed lines form a guide for the scalpel cut, even if you use a ruler. Make an incision in the corners first from both sides in order achieve crisp corners.

 

[JKC27]

3 hours ago, wefalck said:

Well, people tend to confuse 'scale' with 'size'. It doesn't really matter at what scale you are working, the size of features, both small and large can matter ...

 

Obviously, the thicker the material, the more difficult it is to cut it with a scalpel. On the other hand, with thin material, it is more difficult to correct cuts by filing or sanding. If you are working at 1/200 scale a sheet of 0.02" (=0.5 mm) thickness would translate to walls o 4" (= 100 mm) thickness, which would be quite formidable, even if in wood. So chosing thinner material will make your life easier from a cutting point of view.

 

Perhaps you should reconsider your construction technique. I assume that you use the styrene sheet as structural material, i.e. you are building a hollow structure? Unless you want to show some interior details, it may be a good idea to build a structure from wood or thicker styrene and clad this with 0.01" styrene sheet into which you can cut the window etc. openings.

 

For me the reason to use styrene sheet would be mainly that it looks more like steel when painted, than most efforts of filling and sanding wood.

 

When laying out the styrene for cutting, I would use a sharp scriber to mark the window openings. The scribed lines form a guide for the scalpel cut, even if you use a ruler. Make an incision in the corners first from both sides in order achieve crisp corners.

 

Thank you......... I have really been starting to think that making hollow decks could be wasting time on my builds.  You are correct though - styrene does a really good job representing steel.  I have been experimenting with running micro LED lights to the p & s lights and top of the masts, etc. and it looks really nice with one positioned inside the bridge, but I am sure I could make the lighting work either way if I do more builds with the LEDs.

 

re: your comments on scale - for me, I don't care about wall thickness at scale vs real world, nobody would ever care or even notice, it's just finding the right material especially for the top deck where there are essentially windows surrounding that deck of course.

[wefalck]

Another option would be sheet brass. Strong structures can be build from very thin sheet bent and soldered together. When one sticks it to thin plywood or MDF, it can be sawn easily and precisely without distortions.

 

Personally, I think (nearer to) scale thickness is greatly enhancing the look when structures are hollow and with a lot of see-through windows in them.