NORDKAP 476 by _SalD_ - Billing Boats - 1:50 - RADIO

[_SalD_]

Hello everyone,

Welcome to my new build log for the Nordkap 476 by Billing Boats. I chose this model as my first venture into remote-controlled ships; something I’ve wanted to try for a while. My only previous R/C experience is with an electric plane I built for my brother a few years ago, so this will be my first foray into R/C boating.

I’ve been fortunate to connect with 'robdurant', who has a detailed Nordkap build log here on MSW. He’s been incredibly helpful in guiding me through the process and pointing out the key components needed to fully motorize the vessel.

 

A few particulars:  Built In 1970 in England, Tonnage 185 gross register tonnage, Length overall 40.0 m, Beam 9.30 m, Motor 1000 HP diesel, Engine speed 12-14 knots, Crew 7-8 men, Fishing tackle Drag net (trawl), Fishing area Around Iceland and Greenland, Haul Herrings, cod and trash fish.

 

Length of model 81.5 cm (32"), Beam of model 19.5 cm (7.68"), Height of model 43.0 cm (17")

I guess I was fortunate, because unbeknownst to me when I ordered the kit, it came with a cap and some free extras—a fishing net and even some fish!!

Looking forward to sharing this journey with you all!

 

[yvesvidal]

Great kit and beautiful trawler. I will be following your build log. My brother has the kit but never started it.

 

Yves

[robdurant]

Great to see this log. All the best for your build nice hat, too. We live on top of a big hill, so in the middle of winter a hat like that can come in handy. I imagine on fishing grounds in the North Sea or Atlantic it would be essential wear.

[_SalD_]

@yvesvidal welcome aboard and thanks for following.

 

@robdurant welcome and thank you for all your help.

 

Quick Update:

No major progress on the ship build yet, but I did receive some key parts to begin motorizing the model. I picked up a 40mm 3-blade brass prop, a Torpedo motor with mount, a 4mm shaft and stuffing tube, a universal joint coupler, and a 15-amp ESC — all from Harbor Models. Big thanks to Nick, the owner, who was very helpful.

I also got some great gear from my brother (mentioned in the first post), including a Spektrum DX6 transmitter, Spektrum AR635 receiver, Spektrum A6000 servo, and a battery charger. All I need now is a battery, and I’ll be ready to start testing things out.

 

 

Just a reminder — this is my first R/C boat model, so I’m still learning the ropes. Any tips, advice, or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

[_SalD_]

Stem, Stern, and Keel Construction

I began by gluing the two keel strips to the stem and stern post assemblies.

Once the glue had fully dried, I added the additional pieces to both the stern and stem. I believe these form the rabbet for the planking.  A quick note: the instructional diagram show two small parts (#31) meant to be attached to the top of the stem. I may have missed them—old eyes—but I couldn’t find these parts on any of the sheets. So, I simply fabricated them using leftover material from the sheet the other parts came from.

Now that the keel is laid, I decided to do some preliminary planning for the propeller shaft and motor layout. The stuffing tube is 8 mm in diameter and approximately 9 inches long, though it can be cut to any length as needed.

Initially, I was planning to shorten the shaft to about 5 inches, which would position the motor just above the #6 bulkhead. This configuration is shown in the first photo below. The black marks on the tape indicate the top edge of the bulkheads at the ship’s centerline.

However, I’m now considering using the full 9-inch shaft without cutting it. In that case, the motor would sit above the #8 bulkhead, as shown in the second photo. The only concern I have with the longer shaft is the potential for increased vibration.

 

I’d appreciate any advice or suggestions on which setup might be better—especially in terms of stability, performance, and vibration.  Or if there's another option I should consider.  Thanks and thanks for the likes.

 

[robdurant]

A great start. You should be okay for vibration as the rpms should be farily low - it isn't a race boat - but if you want to be doubly cautious, making a part that sits inside bh6 that acts as a support for the prop tube could also damp any vibrations that might form?

[_SalD_]

Bulkhead Frames

All the bulkhead frames and cross pieces were removed from the wooden sheets.

At this point, I deviated from the instructions by gluing the cross pieces to the bulkheads before installing the bulkheads onto the keel.

To help keep the keel straight and vertical during assembly, I built a support jig using aluminum angle pieces.

After reading numerous Nordkap build logs, I noticed a common issue: those who followed the dimensions provided in the instructions often struggled with bulkhead alignment at the deck level. To avoid this problem, I used the deck itself as a template when installing the bulkheads. This ensured proper spacing and alignment.

Once the bulkheads were in place, I found an answer to my earlier question about motor placement. The access cutout in the deck only extends as far back as bulkhead #7. Placing the motor at bulkhead #8 would make it inaccessible, so this confirmed that the motor needs to be positioned near the #6 bulkhead.

And thank you for all the likes.

 

Edited July 7 by _SalD_

[robdurant]

Looking great, Sal. Do think about access to the top of the rudder post once fitted, too. I cut an extra hatch in, which ends up hidden under the superstructure. It will allow you to attach the rudder horn (tiller effectively) easily when you get to that stage. You can see it at the stern in the photo attached... the hole is much more easily cut out before the false deckis attached, and you may decide to modify the frames around that part, too so that you get a good run for the arm between the rudder horn and the servo . I can't remember if I had to.

 

Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs

 

Rob

 

 

[_SalD_]

18 hours ago, robdurant said:

Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs

Rob, I have to say I've never heard that one before. Sounds great.  And please don't hesitate to offer any suggestions I do appreciate them. 

 

[_SalD_]

Deck, Tiller, and Drive Shaft

 After the glue had fully dried on the bulkheads, I proceeded to glue the deck into place. To secure it, I used clamps around the access hatch and planking nails for the rest of the deck. I got the idea for using nails from @robdurant’s build log—thanks for the tip!

 

Once the glue set, I installed the pieces framing the access hatch. I assume these parts are designed to help position the cabin above the hatch.  I also cut in the access hatch for the tiller.

 

Next, I took a crack at drilling the hole in the keel frame for the tiller. It may have been a bit of overkill, but I used my mini drill press to ensure the hole was vertical and plumb.

 

Now, one thing I’ve learned from Billing Boats is that they assume you know something about RC boats. They don’t provide any instructions on which parts to use for the tiller. After a bit of rummaging through the parts bag, I think I found the right pieces.

I wasn’t fond of the cross arm they provided due to the slotted holes—it just seemed like there’d be too much slop in the movement. So, I decided to make my own.

 

After that, I carefully cut out the keel for the propeller shaft. This part was a little nerve-wracking since it was the first time I'd had to cut the keel apart in one of my builds, but it all went smoothly.

With everything cut and fitted, the shaft and tiller fit very well.  Cutting the stuffing tube and shaft to the right length was pretty straight forward.

 

I also installed the tiller servo and temporarily set the motor in place to check for fit.

 

I wanted to do all of this before planking the hull, as I thought it would give me better control over getting the propeller shaft to fit correctly and ensure the motor was in the right spot.  I did a test run and everything worked well.

 

Thanks for all the likes.

Edited July 14 by _SalD_