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Posted

I tried my hand at making the bofors and 20mm guns out of the supplied parts and photo etch, but quickly discovered I’m not that guy and my sanity was worth more than the effort I was putting into them… 

 

so I took the easy way out. Bunker studio parts looked really nice, but I couldn’t justify the price on their resin parts. I found a guy on eBay making some really nice stuff and managed to get all this for about $85 shipped. IMG_7161.thumb.jpeg.dcf6e1d640eb777f7f323fb18f82d176.jpegIMG_7162.thumb.jpeg.e645d9dd2dc892c3c9b20a5c74c448d2.jpegIMG_7163.thumb.jpeg.57ff75e91cb8900ce8c3df56df94210e.jpeg

Posted

Since there are so many small guns, I’ve decided I will do a few at a time to maintain my sanity. IMG_7185.thumb.jpeg.c4f68eaf80b2b0475d34564d14d98990.jpeg
 

I wasn’t happy with the glue all over the place from attaching the ladders so I made the decision and pulled them all off and Scrapped off all the glue. I’ll put them back on after painting. IMG_7186.thumb.jpeg.0ce7aa0d2c020d7a480ee0de3e66baa1.jpeg
 

now I need some help here. I want to start getting the upper superstructure painted and I know there has to be a better way to tackle masking the decks than cutting 9000000 strips of tape. How does everybody feel about stuff like Mr hobby liquid masking SOL or the Vallejo liquid masks? Any of those products worth it? Maybe PVA glue would work? IMG_7188.thumb.jpeg.f3d8c290b8926615c9d6eecd3d4e40ba.jpeg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It’s been a slow 2 weeks or so. I’ve had no less than 2 trips to the ER and three follow up visits. Anyways…
 

slowly started breaking the resin bofors from their printing sprue and getting the cleaned up and ready for paint. I’m trying to figure out what paint is best so they’re awaiting me to figure that out. IMG_7292.thumb.jpeg.b67a06b5083f6324ef448a5d7a3996a1.jpeg


these guys are seriously tiny! IMG_7293.thumb.jpeg.601b0b0bfc698956e708d46abb699d49.jpeg
 

I never got any responses about liquid mask so I decided to roll the dice. The complaint I always hear was it was hard to get off after application… I didn’t seem to have that issue. 
 

IMG_7307.thumb.jpeg.0adcca82873eb68fe57511ce0e30abf8.jpeg

 

the issue I DID have was my application. I used too large of a brush, combined with a shaky hand it got places I didn’t intend, and being that it dried transparent I didn’t notice before painting. Resulting in the need for some touch up…i decided to use this as an opportunity to work on my brushing skills. IMG_7318.thumb.jpeg.9938977614f499bd12dbb48fb2d7ef02.jpeg

IMG_7321.thumb.jpeg.a8d8ba6c722a57c13297f1c648e5fc7a.jpeg
 

camo pattern is coming together… I also finally went back and resprayed the boot top. IMG_7317.thumb.jpeg.696c8f42e4b6cc91d93b49ef9cb5cdf9.jpeg
 

after banging my head into a wall cross referencing the navy drawings and every photo I could find of the Missouri, I came up with my best guess at the paint scheme for the upper decks and got them painted. IMG_7334.thumb.jpeg.bb9a5f11fd88ea8dc8b54666787136de.jpeg
 

dry fitted.

 

IMG_7333.thumb.jpeg.615bc21369f61394d962ff801d71fdf0.jpegIMG_7332.thumb.jpeg.fb015aaac3a94578e3b5638d1f589ed2.jpegIMG_7331.thumb.jpeg.100c5b06f068e0c036711f89e3b51d89.jpeg

 

it’s probably not winning at any model contests, but I’m pretty happy about how it came out and if anybody knows which Vallejo paint color would be accurate for a 1944/1945 bofors mount, I’m all ears. 

Posted

if there is a film on the resin parts, wash them in Dawn and warm water or at least prime them with Tamiya thin primer. Most acrylics don't stick to parts if these oils aren't removed.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted
10 hours ago, Canute said:

if there is a film on the resin parts, wash them in Dawn and warm water or at least prime them with Tamiya thin primer. Most acrylics don't stick to parts if these oils aren't removed.

Noted, thank you for the heads up! 
 

I’ve had a productive past two days. My plan is to finish the bow and stern and then kinda work my way up, so I decided to tackle painting the 16” guns. I went back and fourth between all the reference photos and the original navy drawings to try and best match the colors and camo pattern. Of course, after I painted them I noticed I painted the front of turret #2 with 20B instead of black, so I have to correct that. IMG_7364.thumb.jpeg.cf2c179269e62b6dd8ceae303fbacd44.jpegIMG_7362.thumb.jpeg.416722b49942e676ae3695d80b9832a3.jpegIMG_7365.thumb.jpeg.2e52fd21b462ed5b4a93246114ead896.jpegIMG_7363.thumb.jpeg.4ce0f4693efd9f49f67b30b3a3af4080.jpegIMG_7388.thumb.jpeg.60cd0c621683faf4fe67f635a4d79107.jpeg
 

I also decided now was probably a good time to weather the hull because I don’t want to start laying it on its side if I’m building up the decks, so I got on the decals and matte varnish. I accidentally aligned the starboard decal too high and in a moment of frustration over it accidentally used the black Missouri decal instead of white. Overall the decals came out great. Decals have always been something I struggled with so I was very pleased to get that painted on look with no silvering. 
 

I’ll put on the second coat of matte varnish tomorrow and start playing around with the AK interactive weathering enamels. 

 

IMG_7386.thumb.jpeg.73f4693b7e64bb96ecdc342f8fc0ba5b.jpegIMG_7387.thumb.jpeg.b745a2602b23635a4d687035c3a42994.jpegIMG_7389.thumb.jpeg.64e2a94724fcf33aa89ddce7a859750b.jpeg

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