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Posted

Nice work!

"The journey of a thousand miles is only the beginning of a thousand journeys!"

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, J Snyder said:

I got the straps finished. 

Nicely done

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

Posted

I have a partial roll of 16 ga. coated copper wire pasted down from my HAM operator grandfather that I pulled through a draw plate to get it down to 18 ga. annealing as I went.

Using the wire to fasten the straps to the rudder. I used a pin vise to hold the wire while I peened one end then cut and peened the other side.

I'm going to wait to attach the strap on the keel till I am ready to finish the bottom.

PXL_20251227_234515334.jpg

PXL_20251227_234255548.MP.jpg

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I can't believe it's been almost a month since I have been able to work on the model. It's been very stressful having to put my mother-in-law into a group home. Before we made the decision, my wife ended up in the hospital with stress-induced paralysis.

Anyway about the model I have 6 more planks to go on each side so I checked the space at each of the molds. All but two of them are a difference of between 0.00 and 0.03" with one at the bow and stern out by 0.05" (1.3mm) for 6 planks. I'm happy with that.

Now that I am away from the garboard I am bending the planks into position using heated water in a microwave and the Topflite iron to set them in place.

I did make an error at the bow with the width of the planks, as it is now the planks would have to be wider at the bow rabbet then at sta. 0, you can see it in the picture. I think l can correct it with the next plank.

PXL_20260122_214501720.jpg

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

Posted

Rick, as I mentioned in the post I annealed the wire then I used a pin vise to hold the wire while I peened one end using a small ball peen hammer with many light taps, then cut and peened the other side.

I think the key is annealing and light tapping with the small hammer.

 

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

Posted

Very nicely done. Just catching up on your build, John.

 

Ailing or failing parents are a huge stress, and I empathise with what you and you wife have been going through. It's tough on everyone.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted

druxey,

Thanks the pressure is much reduced now as she seems happy at the new place. So for all concerned things are better.

As for the copper rivets I just remembered I started the peening with a small center punch mark to get the mushrooming started. 

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

Posted

The planking is finished! I use the calipers to mark the planks at the stations to get them to the final size then by placing the plank in water in the microwave to heat it any edge bending is easy. Then with the "TopFlite" iron to heat and dry the plank more it becomes very stable and takes the bend and twist necessary. By leaving the last planks to be placed at the turn of the bilge I was able to switch from clamps to rubber bands for pressure.

I should mention that I had a few  places where my clamps crushed the soft wood but after the glue dried I just wet the spot and steamed it back in shape. 

PXL_20260124_185153714.jpg

PXL_20260124_190933562.jpg

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

Posted

Installing the "whisky" plank was straight forward except as the picture shows I should not have wet and steamed the plank at it swelled and wouldn't fit at first. I had to use the iron to dry them out before I could get them down against the molds.

Up next will be a time where I will become reacquainted with my sand paper. 

PXL_20260126_181038009.jpg

PXL_20260126_182326974.jpg

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

Posted (edited)

I am suffering from temporary sanding fatigue. Used 80 grit and a little 125 grit. Found a few more low spots that i filled with DAP Plastic Wood (natural).

I'll take it up tomorrow with the 125 grit.

I'm not sure if I should finish and paint the bottom before I start on the deck and cabin? Any ideas?

You can really see the harder turn in the topsides at station 9 in the model (it is not as pronounced in the lines. I will have to watch for that next time. 

PXL_20260127_003654408.jpg

Edited by J Snyder

John

 

On the build tab   William Atkin 25 foot Sloop

My other builds:   Norwegian Sailing Pram,   Lotus 7 Replica Haynes Roadster Build

Posted

Coming along nicely, John.

Finishing the hull completely before you turn it over to work on the topsides can be a good idea. If you finish it now there's no deck detail to damage when you try to work on the bottom again.

 

John 

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