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HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -


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Hi all, no modelling for a bit..  As some of you may know the profile picture I have is of the mermaid in the Endeavour River, Cooktown.. Far northern Australia.

 

Well that is where i have been since xmas, staying with friends not far from the river....  Great to get away..  I got a chance to bring a little history home with some metal detecting finds, my oldest coin 1862 British Ha'penny... . 

 

I also got to check out the Captain Cook museum and got to see the real anchor and cannon from the Endeavour.. And a piece of the tree he supposedly tied to...   Lots of great old shipping and mining objects...  It all got my imagination juiced up and keen to get back to the model..   Thought I might share some of my adventure with you..   Ollie

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Hi Ollie,

 

Glad to hear you had a nice holiday in a very beatiful part of the country and it looks you had quite a nice haul with your metal detector.

 

I have been to that museum many years ago, back in '95 and it was a great display back then they had a couple of very good detailed  models of the Endeavour on display then along with the relics from the ship that you have shown. A great little town

Cheers :cheers:

Jeff 

 

Current Builds;

 HMS Supply 

Completed Builds;

AL Swift 1805; Colonial Sloop NorfolkHMS Victory Bow SectionHM Schooner Pickle

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Thanks Tom and Jeff.. Back into it..  I have done about another 4 hours on various tasks...  I have finished deck planking, felt good putting that last plank in even though it was the trickiest.. .Very happy with result and i have to thank those who helped me.. :)

 

I ended up with some with black from the pencil going into grain of some planking but i actually don't mind the effect...

I have scraped flat, sanded and satin clear coated, (still wet in some photos so looks glossy)

 

I also tried some tree- nailing with wooden tooth picks on my trial deck..  interesting how dark they come up after finishing... (because its end grain)

 

One trial is 1mm holes and other is 0.5 mm.. I would like them a bit lighter.. Will get some putty and other tooth picks tomorrow.. Still deciding.... will try more techniques.. Also showing my jig for cutting deck planks,, worked well, always square and good for trimming..  Ollie

 

 

 

 

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Looking really good Ollie. Your nibbing is superb - nice and tight. I like the smaller nail holes and I reckon 1 hole per plank rather than two, except at the butts. I know there is historical evidence to tell you the correct way by I go by what my eye likes. I stagger my single holes (have a look at Fly to get what I mean by that). Another trick is to use masking tape across the deck to get the hole alignment right. Anyway, good to see you experimenting with this, I think it is worth it.

 

Cheers

Alistair

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Thanks for the compliments guys..  After looking at various logs and pictures I have decided to do tree nail..

 

I have chosen a Natural color as it was the lightest and i like "Cabots" Brand.  It shows up a bit darker than decking, blends in from a distance but nice up close..  The left hand run of single plugs are 0.8mm holes and i think this suits...     Regards Ollie

 

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No I havn't john. I will do, i think the toothpick may have flared the 0.5 a little.. I've got 0.6 also will do another test batch.

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Could you stagger two holes on the "thru" planks?? Might give a better appearance?? This is interesting!!

A lot of work though!   I never really did much of this I just did what the rules told me to do I had two boat builders to tell

me what is expected too, also two whole rivers worth of ships and boats to go look at.

 

Good work! And good luck. I'm looking forward to seeing how this goes!!

 

Tom

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Hi all, I'm working out gun ports... So I can carry on with lining bulwarks.. I have some conflicting diagrams.  The supplied die cast ports are square, diagrams show rectangular....

 

I am wanting to make my own as i believe they are made of wood.. Trying to work out the lining of them and such...  They will be cut up to bulwark extension once fitted which is 2x4mm walnut as height is needed for cannons.....  

 

I am also pondering the finishing of bulwarks.. The 'deck edge' is 2x3mm walnut over 0.6 mahogony as diagram shows but it covers up a large proportion of margin plank.. (2.6mm) Is this okay?  

 

If uprights are supposed to represent frames why would they terminate at deck 'trim'..  Is this authentic?   Regards Ollie

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Edited by olliechristo
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Hi Ollie

I ended up with the same issue with my margin plank. It was mostly covered by the linings and waterway so a lot of effort lost but I prioritised the correct bulwark set out over that loss. I should have planned it better. You could use a thinner trim but it should be slightly thicker than the combined main bulwark lining and frames. In the end a too thin bulwark will look worse than a slightly hidden margin plank IMO. A lesson for both of us in the future!

 

I'd definitely ditch the metal port lids and make my own. You can always experiment off the model and then compare but I reckon cast fittings for this sort of part are always going to look crude. The gun port should have stops at the base and sides. These should be set back from the outer planking by the thickness of that planking. These stops set the size for the lids inner lining which you can cut from sheet wood, ply or styrene. The outer part is planking aligned with the hull planking and to the same thickness. The hinges, bolts etc; can al be made in brass - in fact you can probably buy such bits as accessories - not sure. Maybe have a look at Dirk's (Dubz) Syren log or Gil Middleton's Victory log - the best lids in the business with working hinges...(but there are many great examples out there). All this is offered when I haven't made a gun port lid in my entire life!!!!

 

Hope that helps.

 

Cheers

Alistair

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Yes, don't worry guys, as I said i want to scratch build the ports.

 

I trialed many fake tree nails before biting the bullet and I'm happy with result... 0.6mm holes, darkened up the natural putty with cedar.. They look more subtle in real life.

 

From what I can gather about tree nails is.. They really are a just representation of something, it is no use making them the same color or even close to the same color as you will not see them, but you want them dark enough to show up.. Its a happy medium thing. Just be sure you trial them with your chosen varnish as this obviously changes the putty color completely.. 

 

My best tip would be to varnish before drilling and puttying tree nail holes.. It firms up the timbers fibres and you get a neater hole, plus the putty doesn't get all in your grain and caulking..   :) Ollie

 

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Well its been a bit slow in the shipyard with 10 hours spent since last post.. I am really taking my time to make sure i get things right.. lined bulwarks and added bulwark extensions.. will update again soon.. Ollie

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I believe that the margin plank or waterway plank is actually supposed to be inboard to the frames. Check out a section view if you can find one. My copy of the Alert Cutter by the Naval institute Press says it's inboard as part of the waterway and the spirketting???  Check out the plans again but I don't think that the frames were cut thru for any reason....strength... you know they took the recoil of the guns and white water over the rails at times.

 

Tom

 

P. S.  Darn it's looking very good!

Edited by ringbolt2013
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Thanks guys but i'm a bit lost with this discussion also.. I was concerned that so much of my margin plank got covered by deck trim. I also wondered why "frames" appeared above deck trim, I imagine that would continue through hull deck... Anyway it doesn't really matter I am just moving forward and doing what the instructions say at this stage.. I am happy with how it all looks and trying not to be too pedantic.. After all this first build should be a learning experience.. :) Regards Ollie

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Well small update, about 5 hours more. Frames added to one side and three gun ports stops added sides and bottoms, a bit tricky getting the frames layout to suit ports, but looks okay where it finished at bow and stern i think, ... now to do frames on other side and add cap rails etc.. happy crafting all. 

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Thanks mate, your support is much appreciated. I have high expectations of myself and i can already see how second build would be so much easier..  The beech seems okay to bend, will pre soak and bend like i have the walnut.. Only thing is doesnt look like any other tinber on the ship and the lime wood which joins onto and extends  over the bulwark edge is quite a lighter shade.. Think im just going to go with it though. Regards ollie

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Hi all. Okay another 3 hours, wasn't happy with gun ports linings and another bit on frames where they met transom. So i fixed them so i was happy...

 

You may notice i left my frames proud of bulwarks because i knew there was no way i was going to cut them as accurate as i need... So i made a sanding pad with fresh 80 grit quality wet and dry paper and worked them down nice and flat all over now..  ( pad will get used for lots more sanding yet:) 

 

I have cap rails bending and use the soak, bend, dry technique. The ones in bowl are getting a head start..  Steam didn't seem to be that advantageous to me..   The square objects are lead weights.

 

5 days straight of rain here and plenty more to come, so good ship building weather..   Regards Ollie

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Edited by olliechristo
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Well, Another few hours spent...  I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also. :huh:  I dont know how that happened, I made my scratch built ones the same as kit supplied.. I shouldn't have cut it until now perhaps, i would next time.. as done with keel at rudder post, a valuable lesson for all.. 

 

I may try to fix this or let it go.. Any thoughts?    Regards Ollie

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Edited by olliechristo
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