Emma C Berry by cdrusn89 - Model Shipways - 1/32

[cdrusn89]

I have had this kit "on the shelf" since 2020 (the Parts lost is dated 10/2019) so it is about time I got around to actually building it.

 

This is my first attempt at a plank on frame kit so it will certainly be a learning experience and I have a second Berry kit on the shelf in case I mess this one up to the point of starting over.

 

Having read through the first few pages of the instructions I think it best to get the build board constructed first.

 

The drawing shows a pretty good rendition of what the build board should look like.

And I just happened to have a suitable piece of 3/4" plywood. So here is step one - mark the centerline of the build board.

 

 

Edited yesterday at 02:38 PM by ccoyle
corrected log title

[cdrusn89]

Here is the keel support and its "feet" resting comfortably under some convenient weights while the glue sets. 

[JacquesCousteau]

Very interested to follow along with this build!

[Dr PR]

How about a picture of the vessel (photo, box illustration, drawing) so readers will know what you are building?

[cdrusn89]

Phil - here is a picture and a few words about the Berry.

[cdrusn89]

The write-up in the instructions says that the Berry was originally sloop rigged (one mast) but sometime later (probably before 1900) it was re-rigged as a schooner. 

Assuming I can come to some reasonably dimensions I am considering building my Berry as a schooner.

 

Here are several questions that immediately come to mind before I do anything that can't be easily undone:

1. Top masts, if so only the main or both masts.

2. How tall (heel to head) would the lower masts be? Some back of the envelope calculations would be about 50' for the main and 45' for the fore. The current main mast is 56' heel to head. Do these seem reasonable?

3. Mast locations - I am reluctant to move the fore mast and a preliminary examination of the plans would have the main mast just forward of the deck house between frames 16 and 17. Any other ideas?

4. Head sails - As rigged Berry has two head sails. To retain two head sails would seem (to me) to require a top mast on the fore mast which would also have one on the main since I have never seen a schooner with only a fore mast top mast. 

5. Measuring the sail area on the plans (and using the plan dimensions rather than converting to sq ft shows)

    Main sail = 169 square inches

    Top sail = 25 square inches

    Jib = 48 square inches

    Top Mast Staysail = 25 square inches

 

    Total sail area as modeled = 267 square inches

6. I am planning on looking at how much sail area I can get using mast heights of 50' and 44' and booms of 5' on the fore and 10' for the main (which would put the boom end just past where it ends now.)

 

    

Edited yesterday at 09:58 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Having reread the instructions on setting up the build board I decided to rework what I have already done. I looked to me like trying to layout the frame locations with the keel support glued down could easily (for me) be a source of error since it would required reproducing the lines on both sides of the keel support in two steps, once on each side. 

So I removed the keel support from the build board using liberal amounts of 99% isopropyl alcohol and turned the build board over to use a clean side.

 

After that I used the drawing to transfer the frame locations onto the keel which was already glued up and set.

Then I clamped the keel support which was held in place on the build board by angle blocks and a carpenter's square.

I transferred the frame locations from the keel to the keel support and then from the keel support to the build board. Then used another square to extend the lines onto both sides of the build board.

Except for one set of lines that got misplaced somehow every seemed to work out.

 

With the lines in place I could again glue the keel support to the build board.

While waiting for the glue to dry I glued one side of the frame clamp bar fixture.

Edited yesterday at 09:57 PM by cdrusn89

[JacquesCousteau]

If you're interested in building it as a schooner, there's a very interesting build log that will probably be helpful:

There are photos online that will probably help with mast/yard proportions, as well.

 

[robert952]

This looks like an interesting model.  Out of curiosity, does the kit include material to build the work scaffold and other material as shown on the box cover?  That image does seem to show and interesting way to display the frames.  

Good luck. I'll be following along. 

[cdrusn89]

Robert,

The kit includes a bunch of strip wood (basswood) but I do not think the display shown on the box is included. There is no mention of a display base (nor anything that could be used as one) mentioned in the instructions although there are several reprints of the box picture in them.

 

I have the build board and the frame clamp bar and legs assembled and it place. i used small pins to attach the guide rails to the base board. 

 

On to the rabbit. I scanned in the outboard profile (it had to be split into two section my scanner is limited to 8.5 X 11) them used a glue stick to attach it to the keel. A #11 blade cut along the rabbit line and along the bearding line.

 

 

I removed the paper and used a shape pencil to highlight the bearding line. I used  #17 blade to cut vertically (at the stem) then the #11 to cut out a piece of wood that was roughly triangular. I used a series of chiesels, files and sanding sticks to get the rabbit cleaned up (basswood does NOT want to cut cleanly cross grain).

 

Once I got aft of the stem pieces, the bearding line is the top of the keel and the rabbit is roughly a 45 degree "slot" into which the garboard strake fits. I used a 80 grit sanding stick to remove the necessary material using the removal of the laser char to help keep track of the amount removed and where.

A note of caution - some will notice that the forward most piece of the keel assembly is missing in the photo above. It snapped of (luckily exactly at the existing joint while the keel was being manipulated to cut out the rabbit at the stem. I would wait to glue this piece and the the horn timber assembly at the stern until after the bearding line is cut. Neither piece is involved in the creation of the rabbit and both are tempting targets for disaster.

 

Unless I can figure out a way to "mirror image" the plans (or the pictures that I scanned of them) the port side is going to be a bit more difficult.

Edited 20 hours ago by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Jacques,

Thanks for the link. I spent most of this evening going through the log - much to consider going forward.

[Capt. Kelso]

Have visited the exhibit at Mystic Seaport many times. There may be some helpful information available on their website:  - Mystic Seaport Museum-

 

Good luck with the build.

[yvesvidal]

12 hours ago, robert952 said:

This looks like an interesting model.  Out of curiosity, does the kit include material to build the work scaffold and other material as shown on the box cover?  That image does seem to show and interesting way to display the frames.  

Good luck. I'll be following along. 

Yes, the box includes additional wood that can be used to build the scaffolding and stands.

 

Yves

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Capt. It is a bit far from here to Mystic but I hope to get there this summer.

 

I stand corrected on the scaffolding and stands material. 

Rabbit is finished on both sides. or the port side I used another copy of the starboard side view and used an awl to pin prick the rabbit line then transferred the points to the keel. I used a pencl to fill in the line and cut as before noting that the bearding line is a consistent distance from the rabbit line.

 

I have the keel mounted on the keel support and it seems to b e pretty steady and down on the support except at the bow which I am not sure I can do anything about.

 

I am still considering how exactly to execute the installation of the frames but first I need to cut them out and clean them up. Not sure if I should cut them all out or cut them out as I go along. There is considerable discussion in the other build logs about whether or not to pre-bevel the frames. I am inclined to at least bevel the insides as that is (IMHO) more difficult to do once the framing is complete but i think it would be useful to pre-bevel the outside of at least those where the bevel is significant, like 1 - 4 and 20 - 25. 

 

Here is the keel on the support ready (more or less) for the frame installation to begin once I have a set ready for mounting.

Edited 6 hours ago by cdrusn89