A video about making metal hooks and . . . . .

[Modeler12]

I have made a short video about making various parts out of metal wire. Some of the topics I included seem to be of interest right now, but I also included some hints, how to blacken metals and a few others.

 

I show what I typically do and don't want to give the impression that it is the best or only way, of course. In fact, I welcome suggestions and your input about how to . . . .

After all, that is what this forum is all about.

 

[CaptCraig]

Modeler12...Your videos are priceless. I appreciate you taking the time to put these together. They provide many tips and they help the beginners like myself.

[bhermann]

Thanks for posting that, Jay.  I have done similar things with gluing hooks onto the short side of blocks, but never thought of putting a rod through the sheave hole.  Not only does that prevent glue from filling the hole, but it keep the end of the hook from blocking the hole as well.  I'll have to remember that one for future blocks!

 

Bob

[Modeler12]

Thanks for posting that, Jay.  I have done similar things with gluing hooks onto the short side of blocks, but never thought of putting a rod through the sheave hole.  Not only does that prevent glue from filling the hole, but it keep the end of the hook from blocking the hole as well.  I'll have to remember that one for future blocks!

 

Bob

I learned that the hard way, Bob. I might add that if you should use a drill, turn it so the shank is inside. Otherwise the glue will fill the spiral very nicely. Also pull the 'rod' back and forth while the glue sets up. Edited November 27, 2013 by Modeler12

[bhermann]

I've been rationalizing that the rigging thread will run on the inside of the hole and that it won't snag on the wire.  I have also been trying to drill out the end of the wire after the hook is glued in place and set up.  I'll soon be coming to the point where I'll have to test to see if I've just been fooling myself! 

 

Thanks for the tip on using the shank.  I think I would have caught that, but probably missed the idea of moving it to make sure it doesn't become a permanent part of the block.

 

Bob

[Ulises Victoria]

Excellent video! Thanks. 

If I may, I will show here another method to make rings or eye bolts. It's just a drill handle to which you attach different diameters (for different diameter of rings) of L shaped hard wires. Hold the ring wire with flat pliers and turn the handle to make the ring.I think the photo is self explanatory.

Edited November 28, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[Modeler12]

Excellent video! Thanks. 

If I may, I will show here another method to make rings or eye bolts. It's just a drill handle to which you attach different diameters (for different diameter of rings) of L shaped hard wires. Hold the ring wire with flat pliers and turn the handle to make the ring.I think the photo is self explanatory.

I like this. It is even simpler than what Chuck described and what I tried to show in the video.

I can see that a few 'hooks' for the hand drill would come in handy and should be stored some place safe.

[Ulises Victoria]

"Give a lazy man some task to do, and he will find the easiest way to do it" 

[drhemlock2]

Thanks for the video i have gotten it for later use keep up the vids we can all use tips and tricks.

 

Doc

 

[Modeler12]

Ulises, post #28 here, showed an excellent way to make those tiny eye bolts. Thank you again.

 

I had to try this and ran a few experiments. I took two steel brats (.035 and .045 inch diameter), made hooks to fit into a pin vise. Later I also made a hook out of stiff bronze wire at .021 inch diameter.

 

Then I used three types of wire to be made into eye bolts. A couple were made of .010 inch steel wire, one was .012 inch brass and one .015 inch brass. I compared the results in the picture below.
To the left is a brass eye bolt that came with my Conny kit (and I have not found that available commercially). To the right of that is one I made using needle nose pliers (blackened brass .012 inch thick.).

The next three were made using the .035 inch hook and the last one with the .045 inch hook.

Incidentally, the eye opening of the 'kit supplied' was .031 inch diameter. You can judge the others accordingly.

 

Then I made some more using the thin steel wire (.010 inch) and the bronze hook). I found that the number of twists made a difference in the final piece.

So, I decided to see what the limit of twisting was. Something had to give.

Indeed, the wire broke where I had clamped it (my trusty hemostat). I repeated this two more times and found the results to be pretty much the same. The eye diameter was exactly the diameter of the bronze hook. Hence a pretty good gauge.

 

I should have added that in the last picture the three horizontal pieces were the ones that broke at the clamp.

Edited December 3, 2013 by Modeler12

[Modeler12]

One more comment about these eye bolts (and then I will be quiet, may be).

 

Chuck mentioned that the shaft of the eye bolts made this way provides extra 'pockets' or space for the adhesive to make a good bond. The twisted wire does indeed make pockets, but I am not sure it is needed!!!!

 

Here is my thought:
A certain modeler, Bob H., claimed that he never had an eye bolt pull out when he used CA adhesive. I ran some tests and decided that he was wrong or very lucky. Of course, there are 'gap filling CA adhesives', but they don't go that far. 

When an eye bolt is installed on deck (or on top of a spar) with adhesive (no nut on the back side or any other way) and the line pulls straight upwards, the shear on that bolt shaft has to take the brunt. CA does not do the job.
Here is a little test with the tiny eye bolt using CA adhesive. It pulled out of this wood with very little resistance.

 

I have used epoxy. And there are several varieties, but they all do well filling 'gaps'. Even if the gap between a straight shaft and the media wall is relatively large, the 'adhesive' quality of epoxy is usually strong enough. And so is the 'cohesive' property between metal and wood.

The difference is that the first, adhesive strength, refers to the strength of a solid piece of glue (in this case epoxy), while cohesive strength refers to the strength between the two media.

CA does not have much to offer when it comes to 'adhesive' quality.

 

So, I use epoxies for eye bolts 'and I have never had an eye bolt pull out with epoxies'.

Edited December 3, 2013 by Modeler12

[Ulises Victoria]

Ulises, post #28 here, showed an excellent way to make those tiny eye bolts. Thank you again.

 

 

More than welcome, Jay.I'm glad I helped a bit. Incidentally my post is #6. 28 is the date.

Edited December 3, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[Keith_W]

Thank you for taking the trouble of making that video. I would suspect that with those twisted eye bolts, they would have more purchase when installed - larger surface area for glue to adhere to. They are probably more difficult to pull out than a normal hook made from straight wire?

[Modeler12]

Thank you for taking the trouble of making that video. I would suspect that with those twisted eye bolts, they would have more purchase when installed - larger surface area for glue to adhere to. They are probably more difficult to pull out than a normal hook made from straight wire?

Like I said above in the last section, I am a firm believer in using epoxy for installing eye bolts and I have never had any problems using that whereas CA glue will pull out if the hole is a tiny bit too big.

[PopJack]

First, thanks for the video. I am a true novice at this stuff and everything helps.  I wonder if I might pose a beginner's question?

 

I am wondering about hooks.  I need to add them onto blocks, but I am wondering if they will straighten when I put tension on the rigging.   Is there a special stiffer wire I should use to keep them from straightening after they are made?  Or do you do mouse them or something?

 

OR; and this is probably correct: Am I just worrying about nothing.

Edited February 26, 2014 by PopJack