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HMS Victory by Shipyard sid - FINISHED - Caldercraft


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Derek

If you mean how am I going to be certain that all the lids are consistent in there assembly, you need to jig up especially when there are so

Many to assemble. I have made a very simple jig for the hinge position, as the hinge needs to positioned 1mm from the rear edge of the lid.

I just locate the lid up to the back of the jig which has the 1mm recess, and lock it in position and glue on the hinges, with a guide for the hinge position, simple but effective. photos show simplicity itself. DAVID

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David what i meant was  the lids have to be all at the same level IE none sagging down of upwards all straight out,or are you doing that bit by eye.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            DEREK      :pirate41:

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Hello David,

 

Your rudder assembly looks great to me, and thanks for the gun port lid jig idea...it's filed away for sometime in the next couple of years when I get there!  I think Gil had a system for making sure all the lids are positioned at the same angle (doesn't he have a system for everything?) on his old log, but not sure if he's put it up on his new one.  Still plugging away at second planking on my end.

 

Patrick

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Derek

I am going to drill the holes for the barrel spigots first, and then fit the gunport lids. The barrels will be then easy to locate and glue in position as the upward angling of the lids gives you a clear view of the gunport. I can see we're you are coming from derek, and think this will be the best way to do it. DAVID

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Greetings

Well over the last three days I have built eleven gun port lids, my aim was to do all the lids for the middle and upper deck on the port side of the ship. I think that's twenty one or twenty two. Anyway I got a bit bored after a while, and decided to have a break and fit some. I fitted five tonight and they are not to bad. The only problem I had was the 1mm recess as I said earlier, so needed to sort them as I fitted the lids. I adjusted the angle of the lids by eye and they seem ok. What I was concerned about was knocking the lids when moving the the ship about, so I decided to buy a lazy Susan which I think is worth spending a few quid on. Anyway I am pretty pleased with my progress. I would like to thank you all for viewing and all your comments. Here's a few photos

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David,

 

Your gunport lids are looking good.  It must be a great feeling to be at the stage of adding these sorts of details and bringing the ship to life.  Makes me realize how far I still have to go.  My second planking is coming along well though and I should have some new pics to post soon.  I agree with you on the lazy susan idea and was thinking the same thing as I plan ahead.  I'm going to need to get creative as the work bench I'm working on isn't deep enough to turn the ship around on and darn the thing is getting heavy to pick up and turn!  Looking forward to more of your progress.

 

Cheers,

 

Patrick

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Hello Patrick

Yes it is good getting to this stage, the eyelets are are a devil ( being polite) they are all over the carpet, they kept jumping out of the tweezers and the stem needs to be about 1mm, plus the tweezers get CA on them. I decided to slip the eyelet on a pin so i did loose it while locating it. You learn as you go on. I have the ship on a board on top of a computer desk top, so can slide the board forward to create the clearance to rotate it on a lazy Susan. Thanks a lot, look forward to your updates DAVID

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David,

 

I've been going through the various Victory logs looking for a tip from someone regarding getting a straight edge at the waterline for the coppering.  I think it may have been you who said to put a 1mm x 1mm styrene (or other material?) strip at the waterline to get an edge for the copper plates.  Am I right, or do you know whose idea it was?

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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For patrick

I made this marker thing, the marker is approx 105mm from the base. Stand your ship on keel on a flat base and square it up and wedge it in position. Draw all the way around hull with marker and glue styrene around line. I think I used .5mm x 1mm like derek said. Hope this helps DAVID.

Check 105mm dimension on drawing. Sorry for photo quality

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Greetings one and all

I have spent a few days fitting hinges and eyelets to the 14 upper deck guns and painting them. Tonight I loose fitted the cannons to check the alignment and they seem ok, and if any adjustment is needed there is no problem. I simply drilled them by eye, after trying to use a spirit level Phile ( the glass bit whatever it is called) blue tacked on the top of my small drill. Well the idea was there !!!! But it didn't work for me......I had bubble trouble!!!!. Fitting the lids is pretty easy, and I just lined them up by eye. I fitted six and will leave them overnight and will secure the threads to the hull tomorrow. I am definitely going to do a better job than I did on the earlier ports, which was not very good, with the thread sagging. I think it's just a matter of pulling the thread tight and touch of ca on the eyelet, I don't know why I didn't do it before. I also fitted the canopy, but I dropped a bit of a clanger earlier today. I deleted some of my photos of my last post, when deleting a message I had left. I will put a few of them back up with the ones I am posting now. Well there you go, once again I am pretty happy with things and will post again when I have finished the full 14 lids and guns. Thanks to you all for viewing and your comments. Here's some photos. DAVID

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Hello derek

Yes I am derek, I noted earlier I had not painted a few of them. The last six are not fitted yet and need another coat of black, and I will paint the red then. I am now finding it not to bad doing these lids derek, once you get into it it's ok....I kept thinking back to those copper plates!!!!!!! Catch you tomorrow .......starting lids?????? DAvid

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David

 

You have made a really good job of the gun port lids but I have a question. Why are you attaching the gun port lids now? I note from your log that you have yet to attach the channels, chain plates and brass profile strip to the hull, won't the lids get in the way of these and as they are delicate may get damaged. I am doing the channels and profile strip at present and intend to leave the gun port lids until its absolutely neccessary.

 

Dave

Currently building CC HMS Victory (6 years and counting)

 

Future Builds: Victory models 1/64th HMS Victory, Commerce De Marseille (Scratchbuild)and my Japanese Model Rail layout

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Hi,

 

Great advise on the water line marker.....er thingy.....  thanks for sharing your design, I'm following your log with great interest but the down side to me doing this is that I now know that I have 2500+ copper tiles to install!!!!! never mind,

 

Enjoy your build mate,

 

Phil,

Current Build:

 

HMS Victory 1:84

 

YNWA

 

Cheers Phil,

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David,

 

Thanks for the advice and tips on coppering on my log.  Your coppering technique is one I followed closely and helped me decide how I'm going to approach the coppering.  As Phil said above, only 2500+ tiles to go.  That can't take longer than, what...a couple of hours? ;)

 

Patrick

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Greetings everyone

Well I have finished only one channel over the last three days. I made the decision to start the channels and complete them all on the port side of the ship, then add the brass strip etc and then return to the gunport lids after being advised I may have a problem with channels, with the lids in the way.

Absolutely correct ...I had fitted some of the upper deck lids, so I finished them off as they seemed safe from any damage. Famous last words!!!!!!. The fitting of the channels should be easy, but the strops on the dead eyes are as far as I am concerned to short. The lower area of the strop which locates in slots on the channel will not locate correctly, there are two lugs on the stem of the strop which should locate on the underside of the channel to eliminate any pull out during rigging. The stem of the strop is not long enough to allow the lugs to locate. There is also a problem with the chain plate attaching to the hooking area because of the length of the strop. Anyway after improvision I have managed to fit the first channel, but don't know what I shall do about the rest of the channels as the first one is a bit better than poor. OK that's my winge over and done with. Thanks for all your advice and comments and reading my log. Here are a few more photos. Here we go....DAVID

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Hi David,

 

Sorry to hear about the problem. Can you remake the strops out of wire or am I way off?

 

Mort

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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David

 

With regards to the deadeye strops, the lugs on the strops are suppose to locate in the cut-outs for the channels and not the underside of the channel. To aid this I drilled a small hole (0.5mm) in to the corner of the cut-out, this helped in locating the lugs and ensured that they hold fast under tension. When assembled each strop was secured with a drop of CA and the 1.5mm * 1.5mm walnut strip which runs along the edge of the channel.

 

If you take at look at my log you will see the channels and hopefully all will become clear.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

Dave

Currently building CC HMS Victory (6 years and counting)

 

Future Builds: Victory models 1/64th HMS Victory, Commerce De Marseille (Scratchbuild)and my Japanese Model Rail layout

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Hi all well in regards to these strops i am not sure what to say i have tried Daves idea of drilling holes in  cut outs,it did not work for me just bent the flimsy strops out of shape,i have also  left one of the lugs underneath that also seems to be wrong,either way leaves very little room for movement i to think they come up short.The sad thing is the manual appears to have missed all out on the fitting of these,at least there is not a thing in mine,this is not the first thing jotika have forgot to include either.So  holes in cut outs  lugs underneath who is right who is wrong nothing anywhere to say.One thing i will say these strops and chains are by far the cheapest looking i have seen to date very poor in manafacture,brass etching not good enough,going to see what other strops can be used,unfortuantly there are no other chains to  replace  what we are given.Even the chesstrees details was not in the manual  had to read else where they need 2 hols drilled in then sorry jotika  this is a epic fail on your part   DEREK

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