Bounty by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - OcCre - 1/45

[Mike Dowling]

Just to let you know out there that planking has commenced!!!!!

I decided n the end with various advice to do the first plank according to the strange instructions. I can see some logic to them because of the open starboard side. I  do have the advantage with the OcCRe kit over the AL kit that mine is double planked which theoretically means I can cover up my mess second time around.

Anyway, just wanted to let you know and I will add some pics when I have done a bit of 'trimming' - not in the nautical way but with a knife!!

[fifthace]

You started the planking

 

Seriously though, take your time, dry fit dry fit dry fit until you are happy...then dry fit some more just to be safe!

 

Good luck

[Mike Dowling]

Thank you - and love the graphic, where can I get one?

[fifthace]

When you are posting click on the little smiley face icon, (Click the light switch far left if it is greyed out), then click on "Show All".

[Mike Dowling]

We must be truly sad people!!

[Cannon Fodder]

OMG! He planked and didn't post a picture. He didn't learn his lesson.

[Mike Dowling]

_{Now CF, don't be mean! I promised you pictures when I have done a wee bit of trimming!}

[Bindy]

Good luck with your planking Mike!

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Bindy, I can't believe how much weight I'm losing over this, and it's supposed to be fun!

[Mike Dowling]

Here are my first bits of planking basically the same both sides so I won't bore everybody.

What I would  like is some advice now. Do I keep working downwards for a while or start again at the false keel and work upwards?

Goodness only knows how I am to bend this incredibly tough wood (2mm x 5mm lime) around the stern end and get it to stay put when glued.

 

 

 

 

[fifthace]

I don't see anything wrong there Mike, nice job!

 

Me personally, I would plank 2 or 3 more strakes, or until you reach the start of the curve at the stern...then start at the keel and work up.

[Cannon Fodder]

MD! Nice work. I love the pictures! A surgeon could do no better.

[Mike Dowling]

Thank you very much CF but you didn't make any suggestions as to what to next and I value your expertise. Fifthace, I ordered map pins on Saturday which I still think is a brilliant idea of yours but I'm not sure they are going to help much with the really bendy bits.

A thought! Does one soak, bend and then dry or, soak, bend and apply whilst damp. I would tend to the latter but what do others think?

[fifthace]

Soak, bend, apply and allow to dry. Don't glue while wet as wood expands and then shrinks again as it dries, so you could end up with gaps if you glue whilst wet.

[Mike Dowling]

Sorry mate, lost me again there! Soak, bend, apply while wet but don't glue? I tried that with a small test piece but, whilst drying it has sort of unbent itself which is not helpful.

[Mike Dowling]

Hey everybody!! I though, just for a change, that you might like to see my bottom!!!

Before it gets covered up!

 

 

[Cannon Fodder]

Rules I keep in my head.

Rule one: don't glue wet wood. You will get gaps if you do, learned that on my last ship. Not even damp wood. Gotta be really dry. Drying time increases the longer you soak.

Rule two: direct application of heat with a plank bender or iron actually is most effective in getting the wood to remember the curve you want to give it. On really tough bends it might take more than one soaking bending and clamping and drying to get it to keep the shape.

Rule three: remember rules one and two.

 

That's all well and good about bending but what about shaping and tapering the planks.

 

If I were you I would map out with tick marks on the bulkheads where your hole will be, where each plank will end for you cutaway window into the hull.

 

For the places where the plank will just not bend far enough you will have to leave gaps and fill in like you did up top with "stealers". A sliver of a plank at the end filling the gap between two full length planks that just won't lay together at the ends.

 

The bottom most plank is called "The garboard" plank. It's pretty challenging and you should fit it sooner rather than later. i.e. Don't make it the last plank.

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks CF, I think I understand the bending bit.  You are saying I have to bend them and wait until they are dry. If so I had better go and but some curling tongs! It's just a shame that the bits I need to bend always seem to be on the end of the 'strake'! On the open side, in a way it's easier because they will nearly all be quite short. It's the port side that worries me more as it will all be covered. If I follow the wonderful and gorgeous instructions such as they are I will need as many stealers as strakes. Captain Al will have the same problems and his is only single planked.

 

The garboard plank for us gets done in several pieces because of the same process as above. I know it's not the way the experts do it but it does seem to be a means to an end so to speak.

 

With regard to the placing of strakes for the cutout, the instructions are relatively good with a fairly straightforward progression at the bow and effectively two at the stern. There actually given measurements for once!

[fifthace]

A quick way to bend, and dry, planks is if you have an electric plank bender. Soak the planks until they are pliable enough to bend, put them into position and, using the plank bender to run over the plank pushing it around the curve you need. The heat and damp plank kinda steams it as well as dries it.

 

The it will pretty much hold it's shape when dry. Not completely, it will still need something to hold it in position as the glue dries, but it won't be exerting so much opposite force and be a lot easier to work with.

 

Another option, is again with an electric plank bender, is to pre-bend several planks in advance to the general curve you need.

 

Yet another option, is a medium sized saucepan of hot water, soak the planks in the water until pliable, then clamp them around the edge of the saucepan to dry with modelling clamps or even clothes pegs. Again you can do several planks at once using this method.

 

Even more crude...hold the plank above the steam from a boiling kettle and then clamp it around something once it is easy to bend. Bit of a pain this method though for obvious reasons.

 

Final option, dry bending. Amati plank bender, which is like a pair of blunt clippers with only one side having a blade. You place several "nicks" on the inside of the plank, making it bend in that direction.

 

 

 

By the way, me personally, with very few exceptions I always use the last option.

Edited March 24, 2014 by fifthace

[Mike Dowling]

I have got a manual plank bender. The problem with this, which I did mention earlier in my log, is that it does spread the wood sideways a little bit. It is effective but the spread progressively becomes a problem.

That said, were can I get an electric plank bender?

[fifthace]

Right HERE

 

But to be honest, I've used mine twice since I bought it. Since then it gathers dust on a hook on the wall.

 

You will need to have a shaver adaptor as well though, or cut the plug off and fit a UK one.

 

I don't understand what you mean by the sideways spread?

[Mike Dowling]

When I said sideways spread I mean that the pressure from the manual bender does cause the wood to flatten slightly and therefore increase its width. Albeit a small amount the effect would become cumulative over a number of planks. Anyway, thanks for the link. If yours gathers dust how do you do it or what do you use instead?

[fifthace]

Mike, just to be clear we're talking about the same thing right?

 

This:

 

 

If you are finding it is spreading the wood width ways then you either need a new blade or you are applying too much pressure?

Could you show me on a scrap of wood a before and after photo? I might be able to help work out what's going wrong...

[Mike Dowling]

Yes, that is the machine I have. I had a bit of a play yesterday and reckon I can probably manage with it for the really bendy bits. I suppose there are not too many of them. I can always use the 'Dowling' method for the bigger curves. Thanks for your help though.

[fifthace]

Oh...are you using that tool when the wood is wet?

[Mike Dowling]

I have tried both. Obviously the wood widens more when wet but it seems to bend better with less risk of breaking and when left to dry the 'spread' seems less although I'm not sure.

[fifthace]

Not sure then Mike. I've always used it dry, yes occasionally it causes a break but I've gotten quite adept at working with it so that doesn't happen very often.

Has it just been with this kit that you've had this spread, or with others as well? Just wondering if it's the type of wood that might be the issue and not the method...

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Dom, I will have a bit of a practice on dry wood  and let you know how I get on. It might be the wood, I have not had such a problem before. I guess because it's a large scale kit the wood has to be thicker and whilst 2mm doesn't sound much it is quite a lot to bend. I did try using a steam iron earlier but didn't have any joy with that.

[Mike Dowling]

I have tried several times to bend these beasties while dry and it just won't work!! I'll have to bend them wet and hope they don't 'unbend' too much while drying so that I can stick em on!

[Captain Al]

I've been looking at your pictures and I guess what is happening is that you did the "easy" ones and now are going at the bendy ones. The work on the first few look great. I'm impressed. If I get that far and it looks that good I might quit while I'm ahead. What's the difference between a half open hull and an 80% open hull? I'm surprised your strakes are 2mm. Mine are only 1mm. That is a big difference which will make my bending much easier. Still I think I will get some type of tool or use a soldering iron or my wife's hair curling set. Will your second planking also be 2 mm? That'll be one solid hull -- compared to mine it'll be like a man o war. You haven't mentioned or shown the use of pins or clamps to hold the wet planks in place while they dry. Recalling many of the posts here on planking, if I'm not mistaken almost all are using clamps (a lot are using the modified paper clamps). I may be wrong that they are using them to hold on wet wood before gluing. Maybe they are used only when the planks are being glued on. But I don't see why clamping wouldn't be good in both processes.