HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft

[drtrap]

Once again the famous difference between the masts.

[Beef Wellington]

Something that I have done is to use a satin varnish first, it brings out the colour of the wood more, it can then be lightly sanded and layers of matt applied.  Using only the matt didn't really enhance the wood at all.  Of course its all personal preference.

[drtrap]

Something that I have done is to use a satin varnish first, it brings out the colour of the wood more, it can then be lightly sanded and layers of matt applied.  Using only the matt didn't really enhance the wood at all.  Of course its all personal preference.

Thank you Jason, for the moment I've applied a kind of lightly walnut coloured varnish, and I'll see the day after the results..

[drtrap]

What proportion of each free end of the yard do you sand down to obtain the required tappering?

The instruction comment for the last 1/3 of each half of the yard but I dont't feel to be in the safe side, that way....

I'm thinking to start sanding from the mark point (that is 40 mm away from the free edge of each 80 mm white 6mm dowel)...

Thank you all.

 

Cheers

 

Stergios

Edited September 21, 2014 by Stergios

[drtrap]

I think I've found the answer.

I have to sand the dowel of the yard starting from the octagonal border of its centre (approx. 6mm) and going & tappering gradualy towards both free edges to reach a final diameter of 2,5 mm

In case I'm wrong, please send me your notification.... 

[Beef Wellington]

Stergios - you are correct.  Think I posted a bit about this in my log, you may want to check the size of the PE "end caps" before determining the diameter at the end of the yard.  I'm not sure they are really necessary though.  Sorry, can't really provide much more info, you seem to be on the right track.

[drtrap]

Stergios - you are correct.  Think I posted a bit about this in my log, you may want to check the size of the PE "end caps" before determining the diameter at the end of the yard.  I'm not sure they are really necessary though.  Sorry, can't really provide much more info, you seem to be on the right track.

Hi Jason and thank you.

I'm trying to read and follow your posts (as Jim's too) in advance.

All I wanted was to make clear the starting point for the tappering.

Thanks.

[drtrap]

This is how it is supposed to be using walnut unpainted (but varnished) dowels.

I've a tendency to follow this road...

Edited September 22, 2014 by Stergios

[drtrap]

I used the day before a lightly walnut-coloured varnish and today I've applied a layer of matt varnish without any sanding between the two steps.

I dont like at all some spots of roughness. I sanded the dowel using paper No 400 before the initial varnish.

Edited September 23, 2014 by Stergios

[drtrap]

I used the day before a lightly walnut-coloured varnish and today I've applied a layer of matt varnish without any sanding between the two steps.

I dont like at all some spots of roughness. I sanded the dowel using paper No 400 before the initial varnish.

I've sanded down for a second time those undesirable look-like mast-sections trying to restore a unique and smooth circumference in order to accept again a thin layer of water diluted walnut matt varnish.

[drtrap]

I've sanded down for a second time those undesirable look-like mast-sections trying to restore a unique and smooth circumference in order to accept again a thin layer of water diluted walnut matt varnish.

Now, the result is excellent

[drtrap]

Cheers Jason, may I ask you, those structures in the middle of the yard, are custom/hand made by you (using 1x1 mm spare wood)?

I cant' see what Jim has done for the same point....

[drtrap]

.....

[Beef Wellington]

They are the sling cleats and yes, you do need to make these up yourself.  Think I cute these from some spare 4x1mm planking.

[drtrap]

...end for the rest of the yards material (rings, etc) didi you buy again extra aftermarket fittings?

Thank you for your time to provide support on every issue, again...

[Beef Wellington]

The metal parts were all from the kit - I did use some styrene strips to replace the white metal ring around the yard as it seemed a little overscale to me.  (All the rings are to some degree, but I was satisfied using the parts I did)

[drtrap]

I have completed the shapping of all the yards of the model.

Now I'm trying to understand the right way to fit and fix the yard's metals and accesories in place. The kit instructions provide little help for this..

My main plan is to accomplish the fitting of all the wooden parts (masts, yards, etc) and then procced to the final fixing of the masts, starting with the gluing of the lower 1/3's (lowermasts) on the deck.

Thanks

[drtrap]

Hi guys

how I've told you I'm two steps before the final placement of the lowermasts in the deck.

At this stage I'd like to ask you: did you open in advance 1mm holes to connect (by pinning) the back side of the yards on the masts? If so, did you do it for the topmast and topgallant-mast yards too, in advance?

Is it advisable to create those holes now or (because the respective rigging heights and distances on the masts differ sometimes) at a later (more mature) stage?

Thank you all.

 

Stergios

[jim_smits]

Hi

I did pins for all the yards on all of the masts. i suspect it would be easiest to do the pins now before you attach the masts in place but you'll need to be careful with alignment.

[drtrap]

Hi

I did pins for all the yards on all of the masts. i suspect it would be easiest to do the pins now before you attach the masts in place but you'll need to be careful with alignment.

Thank you Jim.

Have you used the 1mm brass wire or usual planking nails (without head) for the pinning?

Cheers.

Edited October 5, 2014 by Stergios

[jim_smits]

Thank you Jim.

Have you used the 1mm brass wire or usual planking nails (without head) for the pinning?

Cheers.

I used 1mm brass wire as it is a little more sturdy, you'll need to be careful on the topgallant spars as they are quite thin.

[drtrap]

This is a good question for now:

what are you doing to protect your model from the dust, especially after you have glued the masts in the deck? 

[jim_smits]

I give my snake a blast with my airbrush every so often to blow off the dust.

[Beef Wellington]

I have a very high tech solution, I taped two large newspaper sheets together and then draped over the top of the masts like a tent. The air dusters work great as well as Jim points out.

[Redbeard]

Great looking build Stergios! Can't wait to see it finished.

[drtrap]

...... Can't wait to see it finished.

Me too Readbeard!!

 

Thank you for stopping by!

[drtrap]

Hi everybody, as a question, in brief..: that K (5mm double block): it is a single one in the middle of the last crosstree of the mizen-lowermast or it is a pair of blocks arising from each tressletree?

I was looking all the evening your posts and pics with no clear result.

Thanks for sharing.

 

Stergios

Edited October 12, 2014 by Stergios

[mort stoll]

I used a double block.

 

Mort

[drtrap]

I used a double block.

 

Mort

Hi Mort and thank you.

Did you place it in the middle of the last crosstree?

[drtrap]

I think that the best option is to form this kind of loop for the double 55mm block.

It seems more historically accurate, I don't know whether exist any comment for this...

Thanks

Edited October 13, 2014 by Stergios